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I would still add a chop stick to the water to be safe. This will give the boiling bubbles somewhere to start.

I go there for little stuff and wait for the store in anthem to give 20% off, then I go there for bigger purchases

I would be interested in some homebrew trade and feedback. I'll post when there is something on tap, been busy with work and family. I'm in the arrowhead area

In the latest BeerSmith podcast, Stan Hieronymus mentions (a around 21:14) that when you dry hop, you raise the pH

How much of a difference is the final beer pH before and after carbonation?

Annie Johnson mentioned on Reddit that one of the tricka to the NE IPAs is a mash pH between 4.5 and 4.8

I have a feeling that the dark Amber color you are getting is from improperly stored/old LME. I would try using DME if you can, and see if there is a change in color. I did a small batch of light DME and CTZ hops this morning to see if I still get the darker color and "homebrew" taste I got...

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Thank you, the theme is called Virtue

When I made my first couple extract batches, one was a red ale and one was a witbier. They both looked similar, darker than expected, and had the same off taste. I came to the conclusion that the extract was old. I made them soon after receiving them, but I don't know how long they sat around...

Do all the beers look the same color wise?

You can rule out the water by brewing a batch with RO water and see if the off flavor is still there.

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People do this by adding a pellet or two and recapping, then letting it sit for a day or two. Gives them an understanding of the hop aroma but not much on flavor I would think.

80-83% mash efficency with a 10 gallon igloo, a bazooka tube, batch sparging. I now want to shoot for above 90% after reading some of these posts.

One. Tried making an extract batch of my Amarillo pale ale and it was bad. I think the extract was old.

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Just seen another package that arrived today, I'll post it in the morning

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