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I'm fermenting a quad and I've been slowly lowering the temperature for the secondary and I just saw that I sucked up ~1 quart of starsan/blow off mess. What if anything can I do to salvage the batch?

I've been slowly lowering the temperature for the secondary and I just saw that I sucked up ~1 quart of starsan/blow off mess. What if anything can I do to salvage the batch?

Use 100% pale ale malt. the extra breadiness is pretty subtle, especially if you're only using 10 pounds.

What he said. Also, with a refractometer you don't have to worry about cooling down your gravity sample because the wort is at the temperature of the refractometer.

Personally, I love my SQ14.

Northern Brewer, morebeer, and love2brew are nice enough to provide us with the ingredients list on all of their kits, though I haven't done the math as to whether it is more cost effective to buy the ingredients separately or as a package. The real advantage of putting together your own recipe...

Congratulations, you've just done electrochemistry. That's why you should always use the same metals. As for the kettles, I have a spike V2 and it's gorgeous. The V3 looks even better and is on my future purchases list.

It could be the problem. I just throw the sugar solution in hot and siphon the beer over it to ensure good mixing. Since you have about 40x more flat beer than boiling sugar water this doesn't really affect the temperature or the yeast at all.

I like using giant starters for my large beers. Probably just me:)

For a pale ale, like what you're making, dry yeast is totally fine. US-05 is the same as 001/1056, and is much more convenient. I use liquid when I'm brewing a big beer, when I'm brewing a lager, or if I'm making a yeast-focused beer (Hefes, Belgians, etc.)

Yes. Higher gravity worts generally produce a more aggressive fermentation. Couple that with the fact that German wheat yeasts and Belgian yeasts are aggressive without needing any extra help means that a tripel will yield a vigorous fermentation.

No. There is so little priming sugar in each bottle that you won't get any off tastes from that. With any high alcohol beer, the key is time. My barleywine spent 3 months in secondary and still took a year in bottles to really come into its own. Brew something else in the meantime, and come...

+1 I almost never rehydrate my dry yeast. I simply sprinkle it on top of the wort and give it a good stir. Never had problems doing that with US-05 or S-04. Other dry yeasts may behave differently, but probably not.

It's protein from the wheat. Don't worry.

German wheat beers, like Belgian beers, are all about the yeast. So, the question that you have to ask yourself when making any of those beers is how your ingredients will complement what the yeast is doing. I don't see amarillo being good with a hefe yeast, so I don't see this going anywhere...

You're not drinking the starter, so it doesn't matter if the DME is old or stale.

If you can use a plastic bucket you can use a plastic carboy.

I was given an 8 oz. bag of galaxy yesterday. The person who gave it to me did not have it refrigerated, and I don't know how long he had it. Needless to say, I put the hops in my freezer as soon as I could. The bag is still sealed, and is morebeer galaxy with a lot number of 45474. How...

You should be smelling an IPA out of the airlock. You just have active fermentation.

For starters, I'd ditch the pils and replace it with pale malt. That will give you a bit more of a malt backbone than pils will. Other than that, looks good to me.