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I apologize if this has been asked before. I searched and didn't find it--several on how to deal with a clogged dip tube, but I didn't see any on diagnosing it. I'm new to kegging, and one of my kegs/faucets in my kegerator works great, but the other doesn't--it will usually give me an ounce...

How do you purge the O2? Just hook up the CO2 and pull the release on the keg a couple of times?

What technique do you all use to track to the keg? I had assumed you just use the tracking cane to rack into the main opening and then connect the gas lines, but I ran across a set of instructions to push the sanitizer out with CO2 and then rack in using the liquid out port and bubble the CO2...

...OK, I figured it out. There weren't any instructions saying I needed to pull up on the locking collar when I put it on the post, so I was just pushing it down. Pulled the ring up, put it on and released, and am clearly getting a connection now...because water is spraying out where it...

Thanks, you've been really helpful on this journey. The poppet I assume is the small post in the middle. Unfortunately my kit didn't come with any real assembly instructions--I think I just press the connector down onto the post? And the disconnect locking collar is the free-floating ring...

I'm about to start kegging for the first time, and I set up the CO2, regulator and keg. I have 5G of sanitizer in the keg right now and have everything connected, with the pressure to the keg about 10psi. I know there's CO2 going into the keg because I get CO2 out when I pull the release on...

I'm about to assemble a kegerator, and I have a stout that didn't carbonate quite as well as I'd like. I still have ~40 bottles left. Is there any reason I couldn't uncap it, pour it back into a carboy, and transfer it to a keg to carb?

I suppose there's nothing wrong with opening the door to grab the picnic tap, and I'll keep that as a backup, but I invited my dad to come help me build this (he got me into homebrewing), and I'd love to do it right. And because I'm full of questions, More Beer has a shank with a built-in 3/16"...

Well, that sucks. I guess I'm looking at another $100 or so for 2 taps, 2 shanks, and 2 tail pieces. Any other parts I need? Will a 4" shank work with most fridges? I assume that I need to match the tail to the beer line? Given that it appears to be a 3/16" ID line, I'd want the 3/16"...

I ordered the conversion kit from Northern Brewer, but it doesn't come with assembly instructions. The kit has plastic faucets connected directly to the beer line, but all of the how-to videos use metal taps and a heavy shank going through the fridge door. Can I use what I've got, or do I...

Does anyone have a source for chocolate spelt in the US (preferably milled)? I found a recipe for 2000-year-old Phoenecian ale, but it calls for spelt and chocolate spelt, and I can't seem to find it in the US.

Ah, ok! Thanks!

Maybe I'm not clear on the difference, then. Don't both whirlpool and flameout hops go into the brewpot at flameout?

So is the main advantage of whirlpool over flameout the possibility of transferring less hop particulate to the fermenter?

Awesome, thanks. So basically the difference between whirlpool hops and flameout hops is a gentle stir and a bit of a wait.

I'm thinking about making Denny's Rye Smile before long, and looking at the recipe it calls for whirlpool hops. I'm somewhat familiar with the technique, but I'm concerned about chilling the wort as quickly as possible to avoid contamination. I wanted to run the following technique by the...

That sounds good!

I've heard that filtering less expensive vodkas reduces the ABV somewhat and makes them taste a lot more expensive.

I'm getting ready to make a chocolate milk stout (from Northern Brewer's BBP all-grain kit) and you need to soak cacao nibs in vodka. I've never done this before and I'm not especially knowledgeable about spirits. What vodka would you recommend? I know that low-end vodka will probably impart...