Recent content by physics911

Red oak.

Looks like you used plywood or some other engineered wood. I'm trying to determine how a solid piece of oak will react to the environment.

Good day, everyone. This is more of a woodworker question than a keezer question. For my new keezer I have made a beautiful wormy oak top which is about 1.25" thick (32mm). I'm considering getting rid of the chest freezer lid and just insulating the oak top and adding the seal from the lid to...

Go by Chicago Brew Werks home brew store and they can point you to the best around.

Another thing worth considering; now that you are becoming aware how to prime and bottle, note that your previous method likely created a fair amount of oxygenation of your beer, i.e., exposure to air. Once the biggest part of fermentation has died down, usually within a couple days, you should...

Please clarify what you mean by "priming to a second 6 gal bucket". I assume you mean you are adding the sugar to a bottling bucket and racking the beer onto it. However, if you mean you are racking to another bucket with the priming sugar and letting it sit, well there is your problem...

I don't recommend stainless for anything related to heat exchanging (wort chiller), as copper has far better heat transfer properties. Regarding the bottling bucket, that will work fine as a primary. However, be aware of your trub level in relation to the spigot. Some put a wedge under the...

wine thief cooler for mash tun if you plan on doing all-grain pH meter A couple of good thermometers primary fermenting bucket or carboy bungs and air locks wort chiller (an ice bath is fine)

Cider is particularly susceptible to oxygenation. Keep the head-space as small as possible. You can used sanitized marbles. However, not knowing the history of the carboy, use extra caution. The carboy may be perfectly sound, but it could have also been donated because someone set it down...

Always measure in place of assuming. Mostly likely you are just seeing the fluid in the air lock move from temperature changes or something else innocuous. However, it is worth taking a hydrometer reading to make sure everything has stopped.

If it is just cloudy, that's fine. But if you actually do suspect fermentation, don't bottle.

http://www.cornykeg.com/ Consistently cheapest I have found. I have 8 from there. And if you can wait, every once in a while they have some super good deals.

55 PSI for a month sounds like your issue. I'm not looking at a carb chart, but that has to be way off the scale. You are, it seems, trying to make sparkling wine as such. For beer, your long-term equilibrium carb is generally around 12 psi, and I've made sparkling water at the same...

You can do it, with limitations, sort of, a little, kinda.... Assuming your manifold has shutoff and check valves, as it should, shut off the valves to everything you don't want to change the carb level on, and then set your regulator to the desired pressure for the one you do want to change...

That's correct. Use one of the many calculators available to determine how much water you need for your boil + grain absorbtion, and put that in the pot and heat to your strike temperature. However, if that is too much for your pot (e.g. the calculator tells you to use 4.5 gallons, which would...