Wiring in an E-Stop

[TechyDork]

I have a push button momentary switch E-Stop from Auber. I am just wondering what is the best way to wire this in?

I am building a Kal clone, but using the StrangeBrew Elsinore software on a Raspberry Pi in place of the PIDs and not adding the volt and amp meters. I am building a 30 amp control panel for now. I have 30 amp two pole breaker in the panel and a 50amp GFCI Spa panel between the main breaker panel and the control panel. All wire from the main panel to the spa panel and from the spa panel to the 30amp wall outlet will be 6/3 w ground.

Would i put the E-Stop in line between the main power switch and the 120v coil on the contactor for main power to the panel using the NC on the E-Stop. That would kill all power to everything in the control panel, elements, pump, raspberry pi, but there would still be power coming into the control panel from the main breaker panel. Correct?

I also looked at the way PJ set up an E-Stop to trip the GFCI and kill all power to the panel, and read the threads about which way is best. I may implement that method in the future, but for now i just want to kill power inside the panel.

I will try to come up with a wiring diagram if needed.

 

[cshelden]

I setup my panel like a KAL but used components from ebrew supply. I wired my e-stop as per schematic. When pushed, the panel it's self still has power, but all components are off, elements, switches PID etc. Not sure if this helps you or not. Just finished my system and have brewed 3 beers so far, no issues.

 

[LandoLincoln]

A main power switch and an e-stop switch is rather redundant. You could use your e-stop switch as the main power switch and have the e-stop switch control the main power contactor. Just a thought.

 

[TechyDork]

A main power switch and an e-stop switch is rather redundant. You could use your e-stop switch as the main power switch and have the e-stop switch control the main power contactor. Just a thought.

It may be a bit redundant, but i like the idea of having the big red mushroom button that i can smash if i need to quickly kill the power and having the ON/OFF switch. I will probably add the safe start feature from Kal's site as well in the near future.

My thinking is the 120v power would come through the main on/off switch, on NO, then through the E-Stop mushroom button, on NC, and then to the coil for the contactor.

 

[TechyDork]

I setup my panel like a KAL but used components from ebrew supply. I wired my e-stop as per schematic. When pushed, the panel it's self still has power, but all components are off, elements, switches PID etc. Not sure if this helps you or not. Just finished my system and have brewed 3 beers so far, no issues.

i ordered mine from Auber and it did not come with a schematic. Could you share yours, or maybe post a pic of your wiring?

 

[NautiDogBrewingCo.]

This is my understanding as well. NO switch to NC e-stop to coil of power in contactor. Switching it on, the coil closes the contactor and powers all components. Hitting the e-stop opens the power feed, opens the contactor, and removes power from the components. The folks at E brew supply provided a great "how to wire your contactors" when I asked about their NC e-stop.

 

[cshelden]

i ordered mine from Auber and it did not come with a schematic. Could you share yours, or maybe post a pic of your wiring?

Go to Electric Brewing Supplies website, look at the 30amp 2 pid kit, there are schematics there on how you can do it, also PJ's here in the forums. Ebrew supply was great to work with.

 

[TechyDork]

Go to Electric Brewing Supplies website, look at the 30amp 2 pid kit, there are schematics there on how you can do it, also PJ's here in the forums. Ebrew supply was great to work with.

I will check it out.

Thanks for the heads up!