Trub Dump Question

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ace0005

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Messages
168
Reaction score
41
Location
Bayville
I'm curious to know when you guys dump your trub. Do you wait for fermentation to stop? Or, do you do it when fermentation slows down?
 
I'm curious to know when you guys dump your trub.
If I’m using anything but a conical with a dump port. When fermentation is done and I’m ready to package. A conical I wait until fermentation is done as well, dump the trub then it becomes a secondary without disturbing the beverage.
 
In my conical I wait till it packs down enough to not waste a lot of beer when dumped. Sometimes I have to do several small dumps as beer wants to push past the trub sometimes.

In my carboy and jug fermenters, I dump the trub after I've racked the beer out and bottled it. I'm a little conflicted right now as the beers I've done that sat on a thick trub layer for a long time seem to always be the beers I like.

So I might wait till nearly bottling time to dump the trub on my upcoming batches I do in the conical.
 
Boy, lots of possibilities, depends on the beer. Typically after fermentation and some sort of soft crash. That's for my conicals. If it's in a carboy it stays for the full ride, unnnlesss I'm transferring to another vessel for fruiting, then usually right before fermentation is done. Though 90% fit in the after fermentation, post soft crash realm. The soft crash just helps the the yeasties to drop out better.
 
For me, I use a bucket fermenter so I just wait until it is either in the keg or bottles and dump it. But, I am going to try and reuse it. I think I read you leave a little beer in the bucket, swirl it up and put it in mason jars and fridge it and it is supposed to be good for a few months. But, I digress, for me, I wait until it is on the packaging and then dump it in the street and wash everything down so the neighbor doesn't *****. LOL
 
I do a trub dump and gravity reading when the fermentation starts to slow. Good way to time when to rack to kegs and spund.

Sometimes I'll also dump after cold break if I think some excess solids got into fermentor, or if I'm on a multi yeast cake run and there are extra yeast solids building up.

This applies to conical with dump port, with other rigs, this might not be so easy.
 
I'm assuming it's a conical because "dumping trub" is generally isolated to that. You should dump trub when you reach pitching temp but before pitching in the yeast. The next time you'd want to dump is just before a (post ferment) dry hop and/or a day or few hours before moving the beer to packaging. If you're dry hopping at peak fermentation for biotransformation then no you wouldn't dump.
 
Is dumping trub beneficial if i do not plan to harvest yeast? I am debating between the fermzilla all rounder and tri-conical. With my fridge space, i only have room to cold crash in the all rounder.

All rounder: no dropping trub, can cold crash
Tri conical: can drop trub, cannot cold crash

Which is more important
 
Is dumping trub beneficial if i do not plan to harvest yeast? I am debating between the fermzilla all rounder and tri-conical. With my fridge space, i only have room to cold crash in the all rounder.

All rounder: no dropping trub, can cold crash
Tri conical: can drop trub, cannot cold crash

Which is more important

Even if not reusing yeast, capability to do a trub dump is useful, especially if your brewing process puts a lot of hot break trub in the fermentor. Some say tons of solids sitting around at bottom does not matter, and perhaps that is true for some brews. But not in my experiance for what I brew.

One does not necessarily have to choose on over the other. I use an old conical with an exterior cooling coil for fermentation temp control, which is good enough for fermentation, but would be inefficient for cold crash. I rack to kegs and cold crash in them in keezer. That way I can also spund carbonate and D rest if needed before cold crash & conditioning.
 
Even if not reusing yeast, capability to do a trub dump is useful, especially if your brewing process puts a lot of hot break trub in the fermentor. Some say tons of solids sitting around at bottom does not matter, and perhaps that is true for some brews. But not in my experiance for what I brew.

One does not necessarily have to choose on over the other. I use an old conical with an exterior cooling coil for fermentation temp control, which is good enough for fermentation, but would be inefficient for cold crash. I rack to kegs and cold crash in them in keezer. That way I can also spund carbonate and D rest if needed before cold crash & conditioning.
I am trying to choose one or the other since i currently have no fermenters, and i do not want to buy 2, right now at least, which brings my post/question. 95% of my brews are NEIPA’s. Is the ability to drop trub more important than allowing cold crash, that decides my fermenter.
 
I can't drop trub as I ferment in carboys, but I can cold crash, and given the amount of hop pellets I use for my neipas it is important to be able to soft-crash yeast to the bottom, dry hop cool, then hard-crash the pellet mush to the bottom before racking to kegs.

My whole process would fall apart without being able to crash. Filtering pellet mush would be a pita and bound to introduce oxygen. Don't even want to think about it!

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
I am trying to choose one or the other since i currently have no fermenters, and i do not want to buy 2, right now at least, which brings my post/question. 95% of my brews are NEIPA’s. Is the ability to drop trub more important than allowing cold crash, that decides my fermenter.
I was not trying to suggest you buy two fermentors. I was saying you do not necessarily have to crash in primary fermentor if you rack to keg(s) and then cold crash in them. This is assuming that kegs will fit in your refrigerator.

I think both cold crashing and ability to do a trub dump are important, at least for my brewing process, though many make good beer without doing trub dump.
 
You can't cold crash the Tri-conical because it won't fit in your fridge but the all rounder will?

So, it's more like:
A) The ability to temp control ferments and/or cold crash.
vs.
B) The ability to dump trub but NOT control temps.

I'd pick A without any hesitation if that's the situation. I suppose you can get away without cold crashing if you had to, but temp controlling fermentation is not something I'd ever suggest skipping over.

Assuming you don't want to harvest yeast, the best way to accommodate the undumpable trub is to leave as much of it in your boil kettle as possible. Chill and whirlpool in the kettle, allow for 40 minutes of settling time, then transfer to FV.
 
Back
Top