Trying to understand this, what is SV and FB?If you have the option, run a gas jumper as well and then you don't have to worry about it as the co2 in the SV will replace the beer in the FB as it transfers. Works like a charm
Trying to understand this, what is SV and FB?If you have the option, run a gas jumper as well and then you don't have to worry about it as the co2 in the SV will replace the beer in the FB as it transfers. Works like a charm
Trying to understand this, what is SV and FB?
Trying to understand this, what is SV and FB?
Doesn't make sense to me. You need to have greater pressure on top of the beer in the Carboy (fermentor) to push the beer out through the racking cane, the keg receiving the beer needs to have a means to release the pressure building up as beer fills the keg or nothing will move. Usually this pressure would vent to atmosphere through the open top or opened relief valve. If this pressure were piped back into the carboy the entire system would be equalized and nothing would move.SV is serving vessel and [sic] FB is fermentation vessel (FV) hook up a quick disconnect with tubing on it from the gas out post of your receiving keg and then hook the other end up to the gas in post on your fermenting keg or just put the tubing into your caboy if you rack from a carboy, etc. in effect you will be transferring the pressurized CO2 from the serving vessel back into the fermentation vessel so there is not a pressure differential between them. it is a great way to transfer from one keg to another completely closed.
Doesn't make sense to me. You need to have greater pressure on top of the beer in the Carboy (fermentor) to push the beer out through the racking cane, the keg receiving the beer needs to have a means to release the pressure building up as beer fills the keg or nothing will move. Usually this pressure would vent to atmosphere through the open top or opened relief valve. If this pressure were piped back into the carboy the entire system would be equalized and nothing would move.
I can see it working if you are relying on a siphon to transfer but that is not what the initial discussion was about. I keep my vessels fairly even to avoid a strong siphon action as I find it picks up material from the bottom that doesn't happen when pressure differential is what moves the beer.He forgot to mention the fv needs to be above the sv so it relies on gravity. There’s a whole other thread on this, check out page 1 but it’s worth reading the whole thing
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ny-keg-fermenting.600563/page-10#post-8312878
Doesn't make sense to me. You need to have greater pressure on top of the beer in the Carboy (fermentor) to push the beer out through the racking cane, the keg receiving the beer needs to have a means to release the pressure building up as beer fills the keg or nothing will move. Usually this pressure would vent to atmosphere through the open top or opened relief valve. If this pressure were piped back into the carboy the entire system would be equalized and nothing would move.
You could carb it naturally with 2 oz of corn sugar, have to open it up to put it in but kegs are kept at room temp to carb up so there wouldn't be any rush for a week or so. Just purge w/ Co2 if you open it. Other option is wet towels with a fan blowing on it (evaporative cooling) or chill it with ice in a 5 gal bucket.Need some suggestions. So, I was supposed to acquire a small commercial fridge a day or two ago but the day I was going to pick it up, the guy found an issue with the thermostat he thinks, as it wasn’t getting as cold as it should. So he’s going to fix it but didn’t give me a time frame. Which blows, because now I’m stuck with a keg of beer and no way to cool it. It’s been in the keg for about 3.5 days just sitting at room temp (70*). My plan was to keep it at room temp 2-3 days, then get it into a fridge to crash for 24 hours, pump 30psi into it for 24 hours, then switch to serving psi and leave it for a few days until ready.
Well my schedule is jacked up and I have no way to cool it now... should I carb it up at room temp? Any ideas you guys can shoot at me would be great. Im kinda pissed about this whole last week as it seems kegging this beer just isn’t going my way haha.. and I don’t want it wasting away in the keg while doing nothing. Appreciate any advice on how to proceed!
Thanks. Read it and learned something.He forgot to mention the fv needs to be above the sv so it relies on gravity. There’s a whole other thread on this, check out page 1 but it’s worth reading the whole thing
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ny-keg-fermenting.600563/page-10#post-8312878
Sorry autocorrect changed FV (fermenting vessel) to FB. SV is serving vessel as others noted. And yes you must use gravity but as long as it's not too high above it shouldn't suck in any more than pressurized transfer.Trying to understand this, what is SV and FB?
What is LA3? - are you referring to the 1318 being adored on this thread? Or is that something else?
Thanks... Curious to hear everyone's feedback as well who had tried the Vermont strain in comparisonlondon ale III - wy1318
Thanks... Curious to hear everyone's feedback as well who had tried the Vermont strain in comparison
I've been reading on other forums (I'll have to dig through my browser history to quote that) that if you want to really make Conan (assuming that's what this strain is) pop you need to ferment at the lower range around 64... And that temp brings out the peach....Thoughts?Seemed pretty muted when compared with 1318. I did a pretty standard temp profile with it — started 66ish and stepped up to 71ish by day 7.
I have had conan beers that were great, if done right it really throws off an awesome peach ester. I’m thinking maybe ferment a tad warmer for that. Some early Aslin beers come to mind. Might try to fiddle with fermenting in the low 70s some batch soon.
Hence the chase of homebrewing... I'm curious to see the results of a similar recipe but fermented at 64 throughout until the last couple days to assist it finishing out attenuation...I fermented Vermont at 66* one time and 70* another. I didn’t find much difference, but you may be onto something with fermenting a hair lower to get that flavor.
To get max peach Conan needs to be underpitched rather drastically and fermented warm, 68 then up to 72 after a few days.
People think that because you get peach from US05 fermented cold, the same works for Conan.. it doesn’t.
You want out of the bag aroma you need to dry hop with as little yeast present as possible and dry hop in the low 60s. You either need a Conical so you can cool and dump yeast prior to DH or cool and transfer to another vessel without significant O2 pickup, which is no easy.
To get max peach Conan needs to be underpitched rather drastically and fermented warm, 68 then up to 72 after a few days.
People think that because you get peach from US05 fermented cold, the same works for Conan.. it doesn’t.
You want out of the bag aroma you need to dry hop with as little yeast present as possible and dry hop in the low 60s. You either need a Conical so you can cool and dump yeast prior to DH or cool and transfer to another vessel without significant O2 pickup, which is no easy.
2-4 mil/ml depending on how fresh the yeasties are.
Thanks for the feedback, might have to give that a try.
To get max peach Conan needs to be underpitched rather drastically and fermented warm, 68 then up to 72 after a few days.
People think that because you get peach from US05 fermented cold, the same works for Conan.. it doesn’t.
You want out of the bag aroma you need to dry hop with as little yeast present as possible and dry hop in the low 60s. You either need a Conical so you can cool and dump yeast prior to DH or cool and transfer to another vessel without significant O2 pickup, which is no easy.
Has anyone fermented this in a conical fermenter? Brewed a similar recipe but used the same dry hop schedule the OP discusses here.
I did not cold crash before trying to complete a closed transfer (failed miserably due to hop particles blocking the keg poppet).
If you have with a conical - I'm assuming cold crashing is an absolute must and then drop the yeast/hops out? Otherwise I don't see how you can complete the closed transfer to a keg without plugging something up...
Just brewed another variation of this recipe and my plan this time is to let it cold crash for 24-48 hours prior to kegging.
What Conical are you using? Unless you’re gonna bag em you will need to crash. I put my Co2 transfer valve on when I add DH and try to maintain head pressure as I crash.
Has anyone fermented this in a conical fermenter? Brewed a similar recipe but used the same dry hop schedule the OP discusses here.
I did not cold crash before trying to complete a closed transfer (failed miserably due to hop particles blocking the keg poppet).
If you have with a conical - I'm assuming cold crashing is an absolute must and then drop the yeast/hops out? Otherwise I don't see how you can complete the closed transfer to a keg without plugging something up...
Just brewed another variation of this recipe and my plan this time is to let it cold crash for 24-48 hours prior to kegging.
When I started doing large dry hops in the fermenter I ran into similar clogging issues.
Use an in-line strainer in between the fermenter and keg. You can dry hop in fermenter and transfer without worrying about clogs. It really works great and is a rather inexpensive solution if you make a lot of IPAs.
http://www.vacmotion.com/Products/Main_Inlinestrainers.aspx
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