The New Brew Shed aka The Lady Cave

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Hello said:
Such as? Or are you on board with the clad?
Click to expand...

There really are lots of options out there. Other than the two mentioned so far (one by me) there are also the whiteboard coated MDF or masonite though neither are stronger for hanging things than drywall. There is PVC beadboard if you like the cottage look (though only the pvc-coated panelling is affordable).

There is also slatwall. This stuff is a little more expensive but for one wall that will have an evolving or storage-specific purpose it solves multiple problems and looks pretty nice. The fixture, hooks, shelves, etc, that work with it are not inexpensive new but come up used on Craigslist all the time. Most big box stores stock one or two panel types but ordering it even in small quantities has always been like $1-2 more per panel.
 
I just found this thread........ I've been contemplating doing pretty much the same thing.... A large shed with one end for garden tool storage, the other for brewing, with fermentation chambers storage for bottles or kegs, and a hang out / bar.... and hops growing over the top.......... 16x20


H.W.
 
GilaMinumBeer said:
I think she's still deciding her options on how to trim the lady cave.

I am thinking brazilian. ;)
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This close to what you were thinking?



6162a991e83c829ce4b98ee4ce834593.jpg
 
soccerdad said:
Saw this on FB yesterday ...

http://www.kegworks.com/blog/move-over-man-caves-theres-a-new-trend-on-the-rise-bar-sheds/
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If I ever build my "compound" I have plans for something similar but built on a trailer. Drag it into the "shop" in winter and hook it up to the welder outlet. Drag it out to the patio all other seasons. Take it to the track when we have LeMon's races only 35 miles away.

Mine would actually have one long wall that hinged at the top so it could be a roof over the seating area. I would employ those cool magnetic insect screens used for garage to keep out the mossies.
 
Awesome, keep the details coming! I would like to do something similar. Probably many years from now. Oh who am I kidding, I'm going to be a public school teacher, I would have to hit the lottery :p
 
go with this
http://t.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836/

over the Whiteboard MDF

http://t.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-3...fty-White-Tile-Board-Panel-346-428/202085003/

I just did my whole garage in the Thrifty Panel MDF, and it is NOT stable
I am in Michigan, all the panels came from a warm Home Depot, went into my
cold (detached ) garage, and I installed them just like dry wall ....1200 screws later

The Thrifty panel has absorbed water out of the air, and is warping or waving
what ever you would call it.....The walls are warped looking.

I am hoping that as the summer gets real hot & dries out the garage
that eventually the panels will lay flat on the wall, like dry wall would.

The plastic FRP panels are more stable - they will not warp , as they will not absorb water like the MDF does.
But the FRP are TWICE the cost of the Thrifty panel, which was twice the cost of dry wall, if I had dry walled, I would have to paint as well, it saved a step.

my 2 cents
Steve
 
PlexVector said:
Teach wood shop and make it a class project!
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I am not sure there are any schools that still have "manual arts" in the curriculum. I came from a medium sized town/small city and they discontinued them the year I graduated...1990.

Now there is one potential...figure out a way to make it a prop in a school play and get the tech's to build it.
 
Onkel_Udo said:
I am not sure there are any schools that still have "manual arts" in the curriculum. I came from a medium sized town/small city and they discontinued them the year I graduated...1990.

Now there is one potential...figure out a way to make it a prop in a school play and get the tech's to build it.
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WHAT !!!! What do you mean? Shop class? Here in Montana it's standard. I can't imagine it not being a standard part of every person's education.
 
I plan to do exactly as you did in a few years when we relocated. Cant wait to see what you do with it!

I sure wish there were a reality show on one of those channels about real homebewers, their toys, sheds and practices.
 
steveoatley said:
go with this
http://t.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836/

over the Whiteboard MDF

http://t.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-3...fty-White-Tile-Board-Panel-346-428/202085003/

I just did my whole garage in the Thrifty Panel MDF, and it is NOT stable
I am in Michigan, all the panels came from a warm Home Depot, went into my
cold (detached ) garage, and I installed them just like dry wall ....1200 screws later

The Thrifty panel has absorbed water out of the air, and is warping or waving
what ever you would call it.....The walls are warped looking.

I am hoping that as the summer gets real hot & dries out the garage
that eventually the panels will lay flat on the wall, like dry wall would.

The plastic FRP panels are more stable - they will not warp , as they will not absorb water like the MDF does.
But the FRP are TWICE the cost of the Thrifty panel, which was twice the cost of dry wall, if I had dry walled, I would have to paint as well, it saved a step.

my 2 cents
Steve
Click to expand...

Thank you for the links. This is what helps a lot. The issue though is budget. Those FRP wall boards are 3x the price of mold resistant sheetrock. I don't know why I shouldn't use it though (@DNKDUKE). I would be using semi gloss paint, easy enough to wipe down. This is all electric so I'm not near an open flame. I'd like to keep the finish reasonable. Between the shed, electric and brewery stuff, I'm in deep. I'm not sure why sheetrock and gloss paint won't work like it seems to in my kitchen. Also, don't I need to have some kind of backing first then install the wallboard or is wallboard, even the thrifty one linked above in place of the drywall and goes right over the insulation?

I appreciate the help and if I have to spend $30-$45 on a 4x8 piece of wallboard, then so be it. But it seems excessive. Well, and I didn't intend to have white walls. :)
 
Owly055 said:
WHAT !!!! What do you mean? Shop class? Here in Montana it's standard. I can't imagine it not being a standard part of every person's education.
Click to expand...

So many schools are focusing on teaching to the test these days, many schools have opt'ed not to have anything not on the SAT's/ACT's or required as Phys Ed requirement. Even Driver's Ed, Home Ec and Art classes ended up "non-funded".

As the only non-educator in a family of educators, I am appalled. Before becoming a stay-at-home mom, my mother taught Home Ec and has since run a successful small business and later went back for a Master's and worked on a DARPA project. Watching this "skills-based" educational options die shames me.

That being said, for students who excelled, my HS offered the option of taking freshmen-level college course or Vo-Tech classes as substitutes for any non-core ciriculum items.
 
You had the right idea with drywall. Its inexpensive & easy to install. I can't imagine how you would knock holes in it just brewing beer. The FRP panels are great but are not designed to be hung directly on the studs you still need a suitable surface under the panels. Do the drywall first and then decide if you want to cover it with a more washable surface.
 
1975brewer said:
You had the right idea with drywall. Its inexpensive & easy to install. I can't imagine how you would knock holes in it just brewing beer. The FRP panels are great but are not designed to be hung directly on the studs you still need a suitable surface under the panels. Do the drywall first and then decide if you want to cover it with a more washable surface.
Click to expand...

Okay, so sticking with the original plan. I know there's just straight up drywall in my kitchen, I found that out the hard way. :) But the walls clean up fine with the gloss. I would use semi gloss in the brewery because there's really no oil and stuff splashing around. As far as holes, I've poked one hole in my drywall by accident in 4 years. I threw a framed photo in the trash but it banked off the wall and made a triangle shaped hole. I tossed it with some...enthusiasm. :)

I appreciate all of the advice, I just felt overwhelmed not understanding the material. I don't have time to hit up home depot where the hands on experience would be something I'd understand a bit more. I also gutted my powder room and tore the drywall down and just used the stuff I linked even though there's no shower or anything. I used cement board under the tile I laid.
 
Hello said:
I appreciate all of the advice, I just felt overwhelmed not understanding the material. I don't have time to hit up home depot where the hands on experience would be something I'd understand a bit more. I also gutted my powder room and tore the drywall down and just used the stuff I linked even though there's no shower or anything. I used cement board under the tile I laid.
Click to expand...

Your plan is absolutely fine, the water board is perfect and if for some reason it gets super funked up... it's easy enough to cut a damaged section out and replace it. Wish you didn't live so far away, I'd have that thing finished for you already so you could make me some awesome beer :cross:
 
Twas' only a suggestion. But the thought process was;

- rigid insul. provides adquate underlayment for FRP and is less prone to sagging/breakdown of batt insul. also negating need for sheetrock/tape/bed/texture et al.
- FRP could simply be glued to wall studs.
- FRP is prefinished and washable. Thus negating paint.
- Cost is most likely a wash between what one needs and what the other does not need.
- Furthermore, if shed ever needs to be moved in future FRP adds less weight to total structure.

However, color selection is limited.
 
Hello said:
Thank you for the links. This is what helps a lot. The issue though is budget. Those FRP wall boards are 3x the price of mold resistant sheetrock. I don't know why I shouldn't use it though (@DNKDUKE). I would be using semi gloss paint, easy enough to wipe down. This is all electric so I'm not near an open flame. I'd like to keep the finish reasonable. Between the shed, electric and brewery stuff, I'm in deep. I'm not sure why sheetrock and gloss paint won't work like it seems to in my kitchen. Also, don't I need to have some kind of backing first then install the wallboard or is wallboard, even the thrifty one linked above in place of the drywall and goes right over the insulation?

I appreciate the help and if I have to spend $30-$45 on a 4x8 piece of wallboard, then so be it. But it seems excessive. Well, and I didn't intend to have white walls. :)
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong - sheetrock with gloss paint will work and work well.
I look at the hanging the board - taping the seams - 2nd coat of mud - primer paint - colour paint - maybe a 2nd coat - wipe, wipe, wipe, scrub, scrub - worn out paint - Then in a couple of years re-paint.

It's kind of like what everyone says about electric brewing - larger initial investment for years of worry free (kinda) brewing.

What ever decision you make will be the right one.
 
1975brewer said:
You had the right idea with drywall. Its inexpensive & easy to install. I can't imagine how you would knock holes in it just brewing beer. The FRP panels are great but are not designed to be hung directly on the studs you still need a suitable surface under the panels. Do the drywall first and then decide if you want to cover it with a more washable surface.
Click to expand...

I may be some sort of Neanderthal but I have knocked holes in kitchen walls just cooking.

There really is nothing wrong with starting with drywall as long as you understand that i may only be a base for something else from the start. If that proves wrong, all the better. At the very least used Densarmor or similar for the wet areas. It is about $3-4 per panel more and the installer will charge you about 10-15% more to install is but the "paper" is completely impervious to water unlike water resistant green or blue board.
 
Hello said:
So I've said the words "lady cave" a number of times and it was never pointed out to me how dirty that sounds. :eek: I'm going with it though!
Click to expand...
Lady-cave. That's something I can get behind. ;)

Okay. I digress... and apologize. I couldn't help myself.

If you are really truly concerned with drywall warping with moisture, you could always add some sort of ventilation and/or possibly an inexpensive backsplash on the wall behind your induction burners. If you are brewing when you can't open the windows, ventilation will probably be needed in a space that small anyway.
 
I see now. I missed the ridged insulation which acts as a backer of sorts for FRP. Lightbulbs going off right now!
 
edroberts said:
Lady-cave. That's something I can get behind. ;)

Okay. I digress... and apologize. I couldn't help myself.

If you are really truly concerned with drywall warping with moisture, you could always add some sort of ventilation and/or possibly an inexpensive backsplash on the wall behind your induction burners. If you are brewing when you can't open the windows, ventilation will probably be needed in a space that small anyway.
Click to expand...

Oh I am installing a 440CFM vent fan. It'll end up with only one bend and the duct will be less than 2' long.
 
Don't underestimate the moisture that will occur from simple exposure to the elements. You aren't planning to dehumidify the space, I imagine, or employ climate control (AC/heat). Mold and other nasties can develop just from exposure to natural humidity over time. Go with the full gloss paint and use bathroom type drywall.
 
Hello said:
I see now. I missed the ridged insulation which acts as a backer of sorts for FRP. Lightbulbs going off right now!
Click to expand...

Sorry, I have been in the building industry far too long and take for granted that some things are not obvious.

Yes, the rigid insul would provide a backer for the FRP. It would also be less prone to saturation from the humidity of brewing and can be cut with a bread knife meaning you could do it yourself.

The only caveat is the available thickness. The Lowes/HD stuff (1") is not thick enough to fill the cavity the depth of a stud (3.5") thus you will need to build up the thickness, block out the cavity, special order the thicker product, or find a building supply that does stock a thicker panel.
 
My advice has to be the same as given to many new brewers KEEP IT SIMPLE. Drywall & paint when it gets worn you can repaint or do something else.
Also, don't I need to have some kind of backing first then install the wallboard or is wallboard, even the thrifty one linked above in place of the drywall and goes right over the insulation?
Click to expand...
Your are right about this economy wall board its only 1/8' thick & its not rated for moist areas.
 
Hello said:
But it seems excessive.
Click to expand...

....says the one buying a shed that she wouldn't normally buy for any other reason :drunk: LOL

Well done, regardless. Kind of making me rethink my own ideas on which direction to go with the 'brewhouse' at the new place (aka-much cheaper)..... I'ma likin it !!
 
OK, let's all take a breathe on the interior wall covering...even me.

Your climate, having lived 8 years in Raleigh, is as follows (from memory):

Cool to cold winters but not severe cold nor particularly high percipitation
Mild Fall
Spring is mild but variable humidty year over year but 10-20" rain and relative humidity in the 80's
Summer is warm not particularly hot (rare days over 95 degrees) with relative humidity in the 70's

So if your fermentation chamber fridge and keezer are kicking out mad BTU's in summer fall and spring, you will have no environmental issues with moisture when idle.

If your vent fan runs for a minimum of 30-45 minutes after the brew session is completely over and you have "pre-heated" your brew space with a space heater (electric) you will have no environmental issues if all standing water is cleaned up.

So this goes back to the active "spray" in the brewing process. Clean it up 90% of your potential issues go away. Make sure to have the drywall installer hold the drywall off the finished floor a minimum of 1/2", use densarmor if you can and make sure to use a quality high-solids latex paint. At the very least, use a waterproof baseboard of either PVC or vinyl.

This is not a place for fiberglass insulation if it can be avoided unless you put a moisture barrier on the inside of a wall (the opposite of what your climate dictates). Rock wool, rigid, or at the very least encapsulated fiberglass. If nothing else, use the fan-fold 1/4" insulation normally used under exterior siding under the the drywall after the fiberglass is put in.

OK, rant over
 
onkel_udo said:
ok, let's all take a breathe on the interior wall covering...even me.

Your climate, having lived 8 years in raleigh, is as follows (from memory):

Cool to cold winters but not severe cold nor particularly high percipitation
mild fall
spring is mild but variable humidty year over year but 10-20" rain and relative humidity in the 80's
summer is warm not particularly hot (rare days over 95 degrees) with relative humidity in the 70's

so if your fermentation chamber fridge and keezer are kicking out mad btu's in summer fall and spring, you will have no environmental issues with moisture when idle.

If your vent fan runs for a minimum of 30-45 minutes after the brew session is completely over and you have "pre-heated" your brew space with a space heater (electric) you will have no environmental issues if all standing water is cleaned up.

So this goes back to the active "spray" in the brewing process. Clean it up 90% of your potential issues go away. Make sure to have the drywall installer hold the drywall off the finished floor a minimum of 1/2", use densarmor if you can and make sure to use a quality high-solids latex paint. At the very least, use a waterproof baseboard of either pvc or vinyl.

This is not a place for fiberglass insulation if it can be avoided unless you put a moisture barrier on the inside of a wall (the opposite of what your climate dictates). Rock wool, rigid, or at the very least encapsulated fiberglass. If nothing else, use the fan-fold 1/4" insulation normally used under exterior siding under the the drywall after the fiberglass is put in.

Ok, rant over
Click to expand...

agree.
Dnk
 
Hello said:
Thank you for the links. This is what helps a lot. The issue though is budget. Those FRP wall boards are 3x the price of mold resistant sheetrock. I don't know why I shouldn't use it though (@DNKDUKE). I would be using semi gloss paint, easy enough to wipe down. This is all electric so I'm not near an open flame. I'd like to keep the finish reasonable. Between the shed, electric and brewery stuff, I'm in deep. I'm not sure why sheetrock and gloss paint won't work like it seems to in my kitchen. Also, don't I need to have some kind of backing first then install the wallboard or is wallboard, even the thrifty one linked above in place of the drywall and goes right over the insulation?

I appreciate the help and if I have to spend $30-$45 on a 4x8 piece of wallboard, then so be it. But it seems excessive. Well, and I didn't intend to have white walls. :)
Click to expand...

Hello,

I put the MDF Thrift panel over r-13 Fiberglass Insulation - in a detached garage. Kind of like your shed, just 480 sq ft and one giant door.
I did it for two reasons,
1- I did not have to paint it.
2- I can wipe it down. It's not water proof by any means - just water resistant

From a past detached garage that I had drywalled, I learned that muck and water that drips off my car, will stain even a painted drywall surface.

Since I am in Michigan, and you are not - your results may vary.

We have 3 ft of snow surrounding the garage right now - there is water in the air, even at 10F. My hope is that during this summer the MDF will dry out
when temps hit 120F in the garage - with only passive ventilation.
And everything will be better, no more wavy walls....
The MDF may work fine for your application.

That being said......

I am also planning a Electric Basement brewery of my own, I start next month.
I plan on having FRP on the walls - with Closed cell foam insulation & a vapor barrier behind it.

I think the concerns over moisture are correct for your shed.
Because it is small..... and enclosed, and will have other 'item's creating heat.
I can open my garage door while I brew, and have no concern for condensation.

My plan for my basement brewery is Big fan, FRP on the walls & ceiling.
Epoxy the floor, squeegee to the drain, as my Basement is an extension of my living space, I have a lot more concerns about moisture.

Try the Green Board, if you have adequate ventilation it may work for you !

The temperature difference between the inside of your Shed & the outside cold air is really what will dictate how much Condensation/moisture you need to worry about !!

Steve
 

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