Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

[WPStrassburg]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DN50-Sani...937?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b574ce61

Any reason you can't go with 2" tri clover?

 

[Marauder]

I decided to go with the 35 gallon version. For the price and size its hard to beat that it has legs included.

Since it has a 2" bottom, would something like this work to get me to the 1.5" threaded tri-clover fitting I'm getting?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-2-Male-x-1-1-2-1-5-Female-Fitting-304-Stainless-Steel-Pipe-Biodiesel-/280818225976#vi-content

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

How much do you think max you will be able to ferment in it?

 

[-MG-]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DN50-Sani...937?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b574ce61

Any reason you can't go with 2" tri clover?

I already bought these from another poster:

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00

So I don't know how big the ferrule's are and if what you linked will match up or not.

How much do you think max you will be able to ferment in it?

Good question. I'll have to find out. I'm wondering if you can get a full 1BBL in there safely with a blow off tube. It sounds to me like most of these vessels have extra room at the top.

 

[Marauder]

Good question. I'll have to find out. I'm wondering if you can get a full 1BBL in there safely with a blow off tube. It sounds to me like most of these vessels have extra room at the top.

That's what I am hoping for, I am really curious if I can get away with a full barrel in this. Hate to spend the money, then have it be too small. I know it's 130, and ridiculously cheap for a conical, but that's 130 that could go towards the right size. Someone has to have tried this already...

 

[-MG-]

I was going to suggest the 60 gallon variant, but it doesn't look like you can get the free ship on it. The 35 gallon might be by far the cheaper option and best especially if you can fit your 1BBL.

When I get it I'll update, but not sure how long it will take to get to me.

 

[Huaco]

Figure up your largest starter on a 1bbl batch. Say a Big Lager... I just plugged it into Mr. Malty and with a 31 gallon batch of 1.080 lager with a volume of 31 gallons and a 95% viability rate on your yeast, you will need around 10 gallons of stir-plate starter. Now, you will more than likely decant most of that so you are not pitching 10 gallons of liquid. I am just throwing that out to give you another point to ponder while making your decision.
(Having never brewed on this large of a scale, maybe I'm totally off...)

 

[-MG-]

Figure up your largest starter on a 1bbl batch. Say a Big Lager... I just plugged it into Mr. Malty and with a 31 gallon batch of 1.080 lager with a volume of 31 gallons and a 95% viability rate on your yeast, you will need around 10 gallons of stir-plate starter. Now, you will more than likely decant most of that so you are not pitching 10 gallons of liquid. I am just throwing that out to give you another point to ponder while making your decision.
(Having never brewed on this large of a scale, maybe I'm totally off...)

Excellent point. I typically decant.

For me I personally plan to mostly make ales, but I am pretty aggressive in pitching rates like the pros do and need to start doing some math!

 

[Huaco]

Even if you decant most of the liquid, you could still be pitching a few gallons of slurry! Go with the bigger conical. Worst case would be to have gallons of Krausen blow off your nice new conical... I suppose there is such a thing as "too much head space"... but where is that threshold? Maybe if they have a 40-45 gallon tank?

 

[-MG-]

They have a 60 gallon tank, but the free shipping doesn't work.

For me this will be plenty, I typically make 12-15 gallons anyways.

This is when I decide to brew back to back and get 30 gallons in it.

 

[-MG-]

I already bought these from another poster:

Brewershardware.com items
SKU / Product Item / price / Quantity / Total
TC15M15 1"/1.5" Tri Clover X 1.5" Male NPT $19.00 2 =$38.00
TC15CAP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Cap $3.00 2 =$6.00
TC15CLAMP 1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp $6.00 4 =$24.00
TC15VBFVPT 1.5" Tri Clover Butterfly Valve - Pull Trigger $51.00 1 =$51.00
TC15GASSIL 1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone $1.25 5 =$6.25
TC15SG 1.5" Tri Clover Sight Glass $54.00 1 =$54.00

So I don't know how big the ferrule's are and if what you linked will match up or not.

Anyone familiar with Tri Clover's able to tell me how to convert the 2" female end on the conical to get me to what I have above?

 

[Huaco]

Is it 2" FPT threads?

 

[Huaco]

Looks like all you need is a reducing bushing...
Here is McMaster's Link

 

[-MG-]

Looks like all you need is a reducing bushing...
Here is McMaster's Link

That's what I was thinking, but thought I would save a little with ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-2-M...pe-Biodiesel-/280818225976#vi-content?afsrc=1

picture makes me nervous, but must just be a stock photo.

 

[Huaco]

That's coming from DudaDiesel... they are very well known and have great customer service from what I hear. Surely it is a stock photo.

 

[-MG-]

My conical arrived yesterday! Since I'm in Iowa, it shipped Friday and delivered Monday!! This thing is impressive!!

I'm still waitting on my fittings and working on the plumbing from the top to install a CIP ball as well as see about hooking up a gas post.

 

[-MG-]

Also what is the compression ring around the bottom drain used for?

 

[snaps10]

Most of these are intended for Ag use. We used to use them as hoppers on our planting rigs. I always figured it was so your fitting didn't rattle loose on the tractor.

 

[orion7144]

I bought a 13 1/2" inside diameter (-456) red 70 euro FDA silicone o-ring from orings-online.com to fit on the lid assembly. It costs $9.87 each plus shipping. No nasty airborne particles - flying, crawling or otherwise - are going to get inside!. The lid itself seems to tighten on the assembly well enough on its own.

Where did you get the port for the lid for blow off?

 

[matt99004]

Also what is the compression ring around the bottom drain used for?

I wonder also if it isn't a good way to keep the drain from splitting when a fitting it over tightened.

 

[allclene]

This is for "MG"
Here is the image of how the weatherstrip is supposed to be staggered on the lid. Look at the post a couple above this one he has a rubber seal he ordered for the lid that looks pretty good also.

 

[-MG-]

OK! Now I am with you, I didn't understand an orientation of a picture and now see where you are talking about. Makes perfect sense. McMaster has that o-ring, but I think I'll go the weather strip route.

Making a run to the store shortly.

 

[-MG-]

So I started sealing the fermenter following some of the great advice that people have offered from their own experience.

I don't know if my version has the cord attaching the lid to the top and others don't, but I found that the way that connects to the conical is area where leaks occur. I've put the food grade silicone sealant on the inside of that and on the outside and used my finger to spread it around and hope it gives me the seal I want.

I think I have the lid assembly sealed well enough (we'll find out). One area I'm not certain is how to get two separate weatherstripping on the lid. One practically is the entire lip of the underside of the lid and when I did a pressure test, of course it leaks at that seam and I know the instructions say to offset the seams for a better seal, but not sure if people just are putting two tracks of the stuff on top of one another? If so you can barely get a quarter turn of the lid to tighten it.

I'm probably going to order that 13 1/2 ID o-ring that another user has suggested. McMaster has that size and I may use that since its a solid ring.

I'll take more pictures, but I have put together a 'pressurizer' assembly from brass pipe fittings that has a keg air post, pressure gauge, and a pressure relief valve. I will be adding a tri clover fitting as well that will allow me to to easily remove the pressurizer assembly and attach a hose for the CIP ball.

You can see in the first picture the little black circle on the top side of the conical, this is how the lid is 'tied' down so you can't take it too far from the conical.
Here is my conical:

 

[Marauder]

Mg can I get you to post a pic of where the 35 gallon line is?

 

[-MG-]

Mg can I get you to post a pic of where the 35 gallon line is?

Here you go, sorry the angle isn't the best. But the plastic lettering is impossible to see.

 

[Marauder]

Here you go, sorry the angle isn't the best. But the plastic lettering is impossible to see.

Thank you very much sir for pointing that out. Perfect

 

[-MG-]

It's hard to guess how much extra headspace there is, however, it must be at least an additional 3 gallons?

 

[allclene]

I think I have the lid assembly sealed well enough (we'll find out). One area I'm not certain is how to get two separate weatherstripping on the lid. One practically is the entire lip of the underside of the lid and when I did a pressure test, of course it leaks at that seam and I know the instructions say to offset the seams for a better seal, but not sure if people just are putting two tracks of the stuff on top of one another? If so you can barely get a quarter turn of the lid to tighten it.

You have two of the "D" shaped pieces of weatherstrip on there. Take one off and offset the seam. I know they come on the role together like that but you have to split the two apart and offset the seems. They peal apart pretty easy.

 

[-MG-]

Thanks for the tip. I did do that. I may need to get more material and still plugging up some leaks. I'm impressed you have gotten yours sealed up!

As it stands now, I can easily build up a little bit of pressure to rack if I need to. But would love to make it a airtight vessel. I'll be conducting more testing today when I get home as I had to apply more silicone on certain areas to prevent small leaks.

 

[Huaco]

MG...
In my malt drum fermentation vessels, I did not have a completely air tight seal in my last fermentation and it was all just fine. It was air tight enough to hold positive pressure, but not so tight that the CO2 pushed like a mad-man through the vent hose to a blow-off container. It bubble a little, but not like normal. I tested it a few times and would remove the blow off tube from the barb it was fitted on. Each time, I got a little rush of CO2 pushing out of the barb.
I am under the belief now, that you don't have to get an absolutely PERFECT seal. Microbes can't fly, walk, crawl or migrate in any way. They won't just crawl their way around the lid opening in search of wort. It has to be inoculated some how. Either you leave the lid off and they drift in there with air circulation or you contaminate with other means...
I wouldn't worry too much about a PERFECT seal. BTW, I was still able to pressurize the drum to 4 PSI of CO2 to rack out to my kegs. I may have lost a few grams of CO2 because of the non-perfect seal, but I really don't care about that...

 

[-MG-]

I'm with you there Huaco.

I've found I love tinkering with different pieces of equipment and wanted to see if I could get this thing completely closed to conduct closed system pressurized fermentation. I don't think I can get there exactly, but like you said, the ability to hold a little PSI and make racking beer with exposing to oxygen is a plus.

 

[anonymousbrew]

same here, i put a blowoff fitting in lid, o-ringed the lid assembly, and weatherstripped the lid - i have a 6ft section of blow off tube into a gallon container of sanitizer. I can pull a vacuum on the racking port and have enough lift to bring sanitizer in through the top (dont ask how i know this) but never once saw the blowoff container bubble in all the batches i have in this guy.

this week, i decided to do away with the blow off, (never even gotten close to needing it) and put a universal small stopper and airlock. I'll give it a go and let you know how it works.

 

[Huaco]

I have to use a blowoff setup in mine for lack of head height above the malt drums and the lid of my chest freezer fermentation chamber. Wish I could just use air locks... I have 4 gallons of head space above my beer. Will probably NEVER actually use the blowoff tube as a blowoff for krausen. That's just the way I had to set it up.

 

[-MG-]

I bought a 13 1/2" inside diameter (-456) red 70 euro FDA silicone o-ring from orings-online.com to fit on the lid assembly. It costs $9.87 each plus shipping. No nasty airborne particles - flying, crawling or otherwise - are going to get inside!. The lid itself seems to tighten on the assembly well enough on its own.

To the best of my ability and testing, this method you cannot get nearly as tight of a seal as allclene's use of weather stripping. On my conical, the O-ring (13 1/2 ID), is too big and if you try to get a tight seal just pushes the o-ring out. You would need a smaller o-ring I believe to make this work. Looking at the picture he doesn't have it as tightened as far down as I would like. I think he is accomplishing his goal of keeping nasties out, but in testing, its not as air tight.

When I say seal, I'm testing with co2 and checking for leaks. I plan to go back with the weather stripping and a hell of a lot of silicone (I don't think I had enough on there to create the good seal).

I'm still keeping my hopes up of getting the seal that allclene has being able to pressurize his vessel up to 30 psi.

 

[hamiltont]

You all are going to drive yourselves nuts trying to get a good seal on your conical. For the record I've brewed 100's of gallons in mine without one bubble in the blow off. Never had one bad batch, ales or lagers. My advice to you all... Spend your energy on something more important. Seriously! Cheers!!!

 

[lunchbox]

Do these conicals not qualify for free shipping from Rural King? I've entered the promo code for the shipping but they want $140 to ship to NC.

 

[snaps10]

Which conical? Something seems wrong, my entire order was about $80 shipped I believe, and that's to CA
If you're ordering the 30gal, only the one with te built in stand qualifies for free shipping I believe.

 

[-MG-]

Which conical? Something seems wrong, my entire order was about $80 shipped I believe, and that's to CA
If you're ordering the 30gal, only the one with te built in stand qualifies for free shipping I believe.

Correct on the 35 gallon one qualifying for free shipping.

One tip: If you are set on buying one of these, add the items to your cart (make sure you register an account), and then close the page and wait about 2-3 days. You will get a 10% off coupon code.

 

[lunchbox]

I'm trying to buy this conical...
http://www.ruralking.com/ace-roto-mold-15-gallon-inductor-tank-in0015-19.html

with this stand...

http://www.ruralking.com/ace-roto-mold-15-gallon-inductor-tank-stand-in15-st.html

I tried entering the promo code for free shipping and it still didn't work.

 

[-MG-]

I just clicked your exact links added it to cart, put in my zip and state and typed in the promo code and it gave me the free ship option. What's your zip?

 

[-MG-]

I just clicked your exact links added it to cart, put in my zip and state and typed in the promo code and it gave me the free ship option. What's your zip?

For $10 more you can get the 35 gallon one, btw..