Storing grains and yeast.

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jcs401

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I just received my Scottish ale all grain kit from austin brewers and am planning on brewing this weekend. Question is it's my first all grain brew and where is a good place to store the mulled grain and liquid yeast? Should I store in fridge? Also, has anyone brewed this type before, looking for good hints and advice before starting! Any info would help!!
 
Store the yeast in the fridge, for that short of time, the grains can be stored anywhere. Cool and dry is ideal, like a closet in an interior bedroom...if you don't have space in the fridge. I store unmilled grain for months at room temp, but milled grain for a couple of days isn't going to go bad. GL!!!
 
Would everything be ok for a week? Keeping yeast in the fridge and grains in a dry area? Or should I put the grains in the fridge as we'll?? I want everything to work and be fresh as it is mulled grains and white labs yeast.
 
I regularly keep grains for 2-3 weeks before I get around to brewing, I put them in a clean dry 5 gallon bucket with a lid and have never had a problem. If you're going to use them this weekend, just keep them dry. Wouldn't hurt them to just leave on the kitchen counter in fact. Now the yeast definitely needs to be refrigerated, but it being Thursday I would be making my starter tonight so I can cold crash Friday night, and decant spent wort before pitching. What are your plans for yeast health?
 
I am not really sure how to make agee starter nor what equipment is needed to make one. I do have a capsule of yeast fuel that came with my kids which I believe I add to the end of the boil then was planning on adding the east aerating and putting in the fermenter?
 
Also can someone explain exactly what cold crashing is and what it does and how to do it I'm still kind of learning?
 
Also can someone explain exactly what cold crashing is and what it does and how to do it I'm still kind of learning?

Cold crashing is quickly bringing your beer down in temperature to around 34 F for 3-4 days, causing much of the suspended yeast and remaining sediment to settle to the bottom of the FV. This is usually done in a freezer which is modified to hold a temp above 32 F with a temp controller. A fridge can also be used, if it will allow you to hit temps on the mid 30s F.
 
This will show you how to make a yeast starter.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/how-make-yeast-starter-pictorial-updated-340261/

You do not need a stir plate though, just put your starter into a glass jar and shake it every so often. Make sure you put tin foil on the top to keep it covered and able to let the gas escape.

And make sure you cool your beer wort down before putting your yeast in, or you will kill it.
 
Brewers make wort, yeasts make beer! It is important to make sure your mashing practices are dialed in, but just as important is to make sure your yeast is ready to do it's job. My first dozen or so brews I just warmed up the vial, shook and pitched it right into cooled 5 gallons of cooled wort, and made good beer mind you. But it always took a while to get going and I'm sure it caused other problems I was too inexperienced to know. Making a starter wakes up the yeast from their packaging slumber, doubles the amount of healthy cells, and are really easy to make. 100 grams DME per 1 liter of water, bring to a boil and cool to room temp. Put in sanitised jar, like a growler, and pitch yeast. A stir plate works best but you can just swirl it every time you walk by it. Once hight krausen starts to fall its done. To cold crash put it in the fridge and the yeast will literally crash to the bottom and make a dense cake on the bottom, allowing you to pour the unwanted starter beer off without pouring out any yeast.
 
So question, could I just add two vials of the same white labs yeast to get a good fermentation? Or would it alter taste etc.? The last 2 brews I have not gotten a good vigorous fermentation which I think may have caused some off flavors. Right now I have a pumpkin ale which has been fermenting for 11 days but never was a vigorous fermentation in the air lock. It did bubble the first few days slowly but now hardly any bubbles. Gravity now is 1.012, could I pitch more yeast to this to make sure I don't get the off flavors like my last brew, or rack to the secondary for a week and bottle??
 
So question, could I just add two vials of the same white labs yeast to get a good fermentation? Or would it alter taste etc.? The last 2 brews I have not gotten a good vigorous fermentation which I think may have caused some off flavors. Right now I have a pumpkin ale which has been fermenting for 11 days but never was a vigorous fermentation in the air lock. It did bubble the first few days slowly but now hardly any bubbles. Gravity now is 1.012, could I pitch more yeast to this to make sure I don't get the off flavors like my last brew, or rack to the secondary for a week and bottle??

Sounds like you are down to final gravity, adding more yeast wouldn't do anything but waste good yeast. Off flavors for beginners are usually due to high fermentation temperature. What temp are you fermenting at? Letting it bulk age before bottling will smooth out any off flavors.
 
This one fermented I believe way to high, I took a temp yesterday and it was reading 78 degrees. Should I let sit longer in hope to kill any off flavors before transferring to secondary? I was told by local brew store to add little brown sugar and rack beer on top into secondary for another week, then bottle?? What's the best suggestion to kill any off flavors, any advice for this pumpkin ale?
 
This one fermented I believe way to high, I took a temp yesterday and it was reading 78 degrees. Should I let sit longer in hope to kill any off flavors before transferring to secondary? I was told by local brew store to add little brown sugar and rack beer on top into secondary for another week, then bottle?? What's the best suggestion to kill any off flavors, any advice for this pumpkin ale?

What yeast was it? 78° is too hot for most ale yeast and will definitely throw off flavors. Adding more sugar is an interesting idea and may work to metabolize some of the off flavors, but you will still have to get the temp down to ideal range or it will just make more of the same. Google search "swamp cooler", and see if you can do better at temp control before you brew the next one.
 
This one fermented I believe way to high, I took a temp yesterday and it was reading 78 degrees. Should I let sit longer in hope to kill any off flavors before transferring to secondary? I was told by local brew store to add little brown sugar and rack beer on top into secondary for another week, then bottle?? What's the best suggestion to kill any off flavors, any advice for this pumpkin ale?

Most off flavors aren't going to be "killed". The exact course of action you should take depends on the off flavors you have. If you fermented "...way to(o) high" you likely have fusel alchohols/jet fuel. It might get a slightly better with age, but it's never going to go away.

I don't know why you think you need to secondary, and it's (for some reason) a hot topic of debate around here, but if you are not doing a fruit/spice addition, or dryhopping and hoping to re-use the yeast (don't reuse the yeast if you have fusels), you don't need to secondary.

Some one will tell you it helps clear your beer, but you know what else helps clear it? Leaving it in primary for the same amount of time you'd secondary. I have crystal clear beers and I've never secondaried (save for a pumkin ale I did for spice reasons) Anyway, I wouldn't secondary a beer that's already got off flavors, it's really just introducing oxygen and inviting more off flavors. All IMHO...

Fermentation temperature control is everything. Even the most friendly ale yeast out there is going to react badly to high temps and even just temperatur fluctuations. Google "swamp cooler homebrew" for a low tech method of controlling temps. Edit: I see Mcarthur beat me to the punch on this advice. :mug:
 
So back to my Scottish ale brew hopefully do this weekend or next. It's an all grain, instead if a yeast starter could I (for this brew) use 2 vials of my white labs(pic attatched) and yeast fuel to get a more vigorous fermentation and that combined with a swamp cooler, would it help with any off flavors ya think? Or is 2 vials if yeast bad?
 
So back to my Scottish ale brew hopefully do this weekend or next. It's an all grain, instead if a yeast starter could I (for this brew) use 2 vials of my white labs(pic attatched) and yeast fuel to get a more vigorous fermentation and that combined with a swamp cooler, would it help with any off flavors ya think? Or is 2 vials if yeast bad?

2 vials will work to get you to the correct pitch volume and combined with temp control will definitely make your beer a lot better. I still like to wake the yeast up with the starter and know I'm pitching live healthy cells, just my humble opinion.
 
Ok, where or how is a simple way to make a yeast starter? What is needed?
 
So back to my Scottish ale brew hopefully do this weekend or next. It's an all grain, instead if a yeast starter could I (for this brew) use 2 vials of my white labs(pic attatched) and yeast fuel to get a more vigorous fermentation and that combined with a swamp cooler, would it help with any off flavors ya think? Or is 2 vials if yeast bad?

2 vials is fine. But in the long run you'll be a better brewer if you learn to love starters. Post #8 answered the question you asked in Post #17. ;)
 
Thanks for all of the advice! One last thing, the pumpkin ale I still have fermenting, would it be at all be bineficial now to put into a swamp cooler for another day or two to try to bring the temp down or is it too late?
 
Thanks for all of the advice! One last thing, the pumpkin ale I still have fermenting, would it be at all be bineficial now to put into a swamp cooler for another day or two to try to bring the temp down or is it too late?

I hate to be downer on that..but if it got to 78F, it's probably too late. The first 48 hours of activity I've found set the tone for off flavor production. In many cases you can warm an ale to 80F after fermentation is mostly complete and the yeast will clean up after themselves...but pitch temps, and early ferm temps are critical.

Take heart though..apply this knowledge to your next brew and your chances of success are much higher!
 
Thank you, I have seen many videos that people after adding the yeast put the carboy/primary on there knees sideways and rock back and forth to airate the wort, good or bad???
 
I'm a little late to this party, but I have a few comments.

First off, rather than guessing at how much yeast is "enough," get comfortable using the Mr. Malty calculator.

Secondly, as mentioned, temperature control is critical, especially in those first few days. As you've now realized, you fermented the pumpkin ale much too hot, and it likely has an abundance of harsh fusel alcohols. Those will not age out. There is no way to remove them once they're there. They will not go away with time. More yeast will do nothing but waste yeast. Take it as a lesson learned and use the swamp cooler technique on future brews.

Thirdly, don't add yeast nutrient to your wort. All-grain worts already contains all the nutrients yeast need. Use your yeast nutrient in your starters.

Fourthly, look into making starters. :) It's a great way to build up the optimal amount of yeast from a single vial, and save money on yeast.

Finally, rocking the carboy on your knees is one way to aerate your wort, but it sounds quite dangerous, to me. I use a de-gassing rod (brand name is "Fizz-X") on a drill to work up a good froth before pitching the yeast. The ideal solution is to add oxygen directly with an oxygen tank and a (sanitized) aeration stone.

Good luck with the Scottish Ale brew, let us know how it turns out. Keep that temperature around 65° F!
 
Bump; Is it bad to store grains in a freezer?? Im wondering because I put 2 batches of grain in the freezer and I only expected them to be in there a few weeks, but its prob been about 4 months by now :/
 

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