Pin lock or ball lock

[Merz69]

Which type of keg is better ?
Or should O say more popular, with more readily available fittings and hardware ?

 

[Tom R]

Ball lock, without a doubt.

 

[Golddiggie]

Easy to find ball lock fittings all day long. All new kegs are ball lock. IIRC only the coke-cola kegs were pin lock.

All of my kegs are ball lock. Plus I have ball lock posts on other items. Only needing one set/type of QDs means I don't need to worry about grabbing the correct one.

I don't recall the last time I even saw pin lock kegs for sale on any sites, or in stores.

 

[Barakn]

Ball lock is more popular and is reflected in the price. I use pin lock, and on more than one occasion it has prevented me from being stupid and connecting to the wrong post, but then again there are times when I want to connect a gas line to the liquid post (force carbonating) or vice versa, and I end up needing to buy extra disconnects.

 

[Golddiggie]

I recommend getting the QDs with the MFL/threaded connections to the tubing. That way you can easily change out what post it will work with. I also use oetiker clamps on all hoses. IME, they beat the snot out of the worm clamps that are often provided with 'kits'. Zero gaps in clamping for FTW.

 

[bracconiere]

i've got 4 tall and skinny ball lock and two short and fat pin lock kegs...the pin lock go in the back of my fridge where they fit under the control panel....



i only really need one though, and it's a tight squeeze with two pin locks back there...might just have to get another ball lock keg! never thought about it before! Thanks

 

[Golddiggie]

Something else to keep in mind.
Servicing the posts on ball lock kegs can be done with either a standard box wrench, or deep socket. For pin lock, they have to be cut to go around the pins. Which means you'll have that one item just for the keg posts. Finding that out, over a decade ago, was the final nail in the pin lock coffin for me.

 

[grampamark]

I have all pin lock kegs. When I started kegging, years ago, they were cheaper, and the difference in dimensions from ball locks wasn’t an issue, so that’s what I went with.

The only real drawback to pin locks is that new posts aren’t available (except for some which are machined from billet stainless and cost as much, for a pair, as a new ball lock keg). Used posts are still available, and I’ve never worn out a post, so that’s no big deal. The advantage of the pin lock is that it’s impossible to reverse the gas and liquid QDs. The socket with the appropriate notches cut in it to remove either post isn’t expensive, and the O-ring kits cost the same. The lids are the same. The pin lock is slightly larger in diameter and slightly shorter than the ball lock. That’s about it. If you want shiny and new, the ball lock is all you can get. If you want to save a few bucks (but not enough to really matter unless you’re on a really, really, tight budget) there’s nothing wrong with pin locks. Well, there‘s also the satisfaction of annoying those who equate Shiny Objects with “better” beer.

 

[soccerdad]

Something else to keep in mind.
Servicing the posts on ball lock kegs can be done with either a standard box wrench, or deep socket. For pin lock, they have to be cut to go around the pins. Which means you'll have that one item just for the keg posts. Finding that out, over a decade ago, was the final nail in the pin lock coffin for me.

Agree. But ... Any eejit with a dremel tool can buy a $2 deep well socket and make a tool that works on gas or liquid side. I are that eejit. I know. I bet your pecker-in-law has a dremel with a cutting wheel. Or your geek neighbor.

 

[Golddiggie]

Agree. But ... Any eejit with a dremel tool can buy a $2 deep well socket and make a tool that works on gas or liquid side. I are that eejit. I know. I bet your pecker-in-law has a dremel with a cutting wheel. Or your geek neighbor.

Dremels are for rookies. I have three right angle grinders to play with. Not to mention a milling machine. Plus plenty of other tools.

 

[mashpaddled]

I have pin lock kegs. I started buying kegs at a time when new corny kegs were impossible to find but used kegs were plentiful. At that time the advice was pick one and stick with it so you only need one set of equipment. I found a really good deal on some pin lock kegs and that was my choice. I have six kegs which fills all taps plus one extra.

You can still find used pin lock kegs and they are usually cheaper because ball lock kegs became more popular. Nobody makes new pin lock kegs which means if you need parts you have to salvage from old kegs. Eventually the ability to buy pin lock fittings will probably get harder as ball lock kegs continue to get more popular. So know if you choose pin lock kegs you're investing in a dying breed. The kegs can be converted to ball lock posts but then you'll have to replace al your fittings.

If I had it to do over again and started buying kegs I'd go with ball lock. With ball lock you have the opportunity to buy both new and used kegs. As the supply increases and homebrewing ebbs and flows there will always be good deals to buy more kegs as you need/want them. There is, and likely will be more, brewing equipment using forced transfers that use ball lock fittings. You may not be a super technical or equipment-minded brewer today but that will give you flexibility to become that kind of brewer without having to replace all your fittings and kegs (or at least keg posts).

Ultimately the advice that guided my decision still holds true. It's best to pick one and stick to it. It's easier to have kegs that work with all your fittings and open taps.

 

[hout17]

I have all pin lock kegs. When I started kegging, years ago, they were cheaper, and the difference in dimensions from ball locks wasn’t an issue, so that’s what I went with.

The only real drawback to pin locks is that new posts aren’t available (except for some which are machined from billet stainless and cost as much, for a pair, as a new ball lock keg). Used posts are still available, and I’ve never worn out a post, so that’s no big deal. The advantage of the pin lock is that it’s impossible to reverse the gas and liquid QDs. The socket with the appropriate notches cut in it to remove either post isn’t expensive, and the O-ring kits cost the same. The lids are the same. The pin lock is slightly larger in diameter and slightly shorter than the ball lock. That’s about it. If you want shiny and new, the ball lock is all you can get. If you want to save a few bucks (but not enough to really matter unless you’re on a really, really, tight budget) there’s nothing wrong with pin locks. Well, there‘s also the satisfaction of annoying those who equate Shiny Objects with “better” beer.

Same here I've got pin locks that I acquired quite a few years ago for cheap. They work great for me too.

 

[rallenhall]

I started with ball locks but have both (10 pin locks gifted from a local tavern when Coke went to the bag system and advised the bar owner to toss the kegs into the dumpster). PLs are wider and shorter than BLs if either horizontal or vertical space is an issue. I have cross-coupled BLs, and they can sometimes be a bear to separate. Impossible with PLs. As already mentioned, a cheap Walmart deep socket and a dremel tool easily makes a PL post removal tool. Pressure relief valves on BL lids are super handy (you could buy new lids with PRVs for PLs, but that ups the investment). Using the treaded couplers make swapping back and forth simple, but does introduce another potential CO2 leak point vs. barbed fittings. I've not found any shortage in PL parts or connectors and other than gaskets/poppets there really isn't too much that can go wrong with either type of keg.

 

[wetmk]

3 pin that I bought 25 years ago. 4 ball that my cousin gave me 15 years ago after finding them in the garage attic of a newly purchased house. The crud in those 4 was a sight. For my standard refrigerator in the garage I prefer the lower height on the pinlocks. I can't remember the last time I had beer in more than 3 kegs at the same time. I might get there this weekend though as I have 3 beers in primary that could be packaged.

 

[PCABrewing]

Nobody needs to defend their choice of kegs or other equipment. If it works for you use it!
When it stops working, if ever, replace it with what is available.
If you want to buy something flashy, buy it.
The goal is to brew good beer and be able to store and serve it.
The ability to continue to do that long term may sway your choice of products.
Any other focus is ancillary.