Northern Brewer DEAD RINGER IPA

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I suggest you sanitize the fermenter, aerate the cooled wort and add the correct amount of WYeast 1056 or Safale 05.

In addition to this, I suggest you don't use secondary and just let it sit and do it's thing and not rely on the airlock resulting in an unnecessary post about thinking fermentation is over early.
 
Hold the wort at 66°F to 68°F with WY1056 or US-05 until the krausen begins dropping. After that the temperature of the beer can free rise to ambient as long as ambient is not over 72°F. Dry hop when most of the suspended yeast has dropped.
 
Hold the wort at 66°F to 68°F with WY1056 or US-05 until the krausen begins dropping. After that the temperature of the beer can free rise to ambient as long as ambient is not over 72°F. Dry hop when most of the suspended yeast has dropped.
I will soon be making this recipe. I plan to follow your suggestions!
 
There are sooooooooooooo many things that could go horribly wrong. Are you sure you really want to take the risk and do it? What about your family and friends? What will they say? It's not too late to change your mind. Even though you posted your intentions online to complete strangers, you can still back out. It's never too late.
 
Well it seems many of you have opinions on the Dead Ringer recipe. Must be a very popular beer to brew. There are the instructions provided of course (for new brewers such as myself), then there are the suggestions from more experienced brewers on this recipe. I appreciate those suggestions.
 
I brewed this one with a full boil and a US-05 starter. I would have cut the primary time by 25%-50% of what the recipe says under these conditions.
 
Thank you for the clarification. I was not aware of the difference for liquid and dry yeast. I have used dry yeast to this point, since I am still learning.
 
OOPS... Here is my answer that I never clicked the post reply button.....

Why no starter for US05?

Dry yeasts are engineered and fortified with nutrients so that you don't need a starter. A pack already contains enough cells to ferment all but the highest gravity worts. When you make a starter you deplete these reserves so the yeast is less ready than if you just rehydrate, and maybe if you just sprinkle on the surface of the wort.

Some say that pitching the yeast into a wort kills half of the cells. If that is true and you do the starter you may just get back to where you started from.

If you need more yeast cells it is probably cheaper to buy and pitch another pack than to make a starter.
 
OOPS... Here is my answer that I never clicked the post reply button.....



Dry yeasts are engineered and fortified with nutrients so that you don't need a starter. A pack already contains enough cells to ferment all but the highest gravity worts. When you make a starter you deplete these reserves so the yeast is less ready than if you just rehydrate, and maybe if you just sprinkle on the surface of the wort.

Some say that pitching the yeast into a wort kills half of the cells. If that is true and you do the starter you may just get back to where you started from.

If you need more yeast cells it is probably cheaper to buy and pitch another pack than to make a starter.
That is very helpful thank you. In that light, if one decides to use 2 packs of dry yeast for a 5 gallon batch, is that pitching too much yeast? I know there are yeast calculators out there, but asking as a rule of thumb
 
It depends on the beer. A pack is fine for a 1.050 but if you were doing an Imperial Russian Stout or a Barleywine at 1.100 or higher multiple packs should be used.
 
A question: I ended up
Being short some on volume in the primary fermenter (maybe half a gallon). Is it too late to bring up to the 5 gallon volume or can it be done when transferring to secondary ? My stupid mistake. Has
Been in primary for three days, active fermentation
 
Was it good? I have a beer fermenting now but after I get back from vacation in a couple weeks was going to do my next one, and I'm looking at some of the NB extract kits.
 
Was it good? I have a beer fermenting now but after I get back from vacation in a couple weeks was going to do my next one, and I'm looking at some of the NB extract kits.

I brew it often. Better than any Bells Two Hearted I've had. Could also be because I can't get fresh Two Hearted here but it is a very good recipe. Don't rush it give it time in the primary.
 
As always great input from flars. One thing I did a little different was mash between 160-170 degrees for 25 minutes ; I did not follow the directions to steep until the water reaches 170 degrees. Came out great. I like the NB extract kits; I am moving towards all grain now but like their kits in general.
 
As always great input from flars. One thing I did a little different was mash between 160-170 degrees for 25 minutes ; I did not follow the directions to steep until the water reaches 170 degrees. Came out great. I like the NB extract kits; I am moving towards all grain now but like their kits in general.

That is not a mash. It is still steeping unless you have base grains in there. I have done steady temperature steeps and others by adding the steeping grains when the water gets hot and keeping the heat on for 20 minutes or stopping at 170 degrees. I found the time and temperature met pretty close. I found no difference doing it either way.

I do agree that NB kits are very good. I did several extracts and a couple of all grain. I still use their recipes for inspiration.
 
I went to the inter webs and educated myself on steeping vs mashing, appreciate the clarification. I learned something new!
 
I like 2 Hearted more, but I live in MI so maybe my 2 Hearted is fresher than most on the forum. However, the Dead Ringer is a solid IPA and one you'll enjoy, for sure. In fact, I've got a batch dry hopping as I type this!
 

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