Mexican Cerveza Kit Brewed, Fermentation Advice....

[adpostel]

I brewed a Mexican Cerveza Kit. It was an LME kit with steeped grains for a little flavor and color. I followed the directions and ended up with an OG of 1.046. I checked the SG 12 days later and it was at 1.022, at day 15 now I am at 1.020. Should I just let it remain in the primary for a few more days? The instructions said it should end up around 1.012 after a week?

Another question is I am checking the SG with a Refractometer that has Brix, as well as S.G graduations. Is that OK?

Also, I am wanting to keg this beer as opposed to bottling....

Any ideas? Should I go ahead and keg, let it ferment a little while longer?

BTW, I pitched a Wyeast German Ale smack pack at around 75*F and have been fermenting in my dark closet with an ambient temp of between 65-68*F in a 6 gallon Ale Pail.

 

[BigFloyd]

I brewed a Mexican Cerveza Kit. It was an LME kit with steeped grains for a little flavor and color. I followed the directions and ended up with an OG of 1.046. I checked the SG 12 days later and it was at 1.022, at day 15 now I am at 1.020. Should I just let it remain in the primary for a few more days? The instructions said it should end up around 1.012 after a week?

Another question is I am checking the SG with a Refractometer that has Brix, as well as S.G graduations. Is that OK?

Also, I am wanting to keg this beer as opposed to bottling....

Any ideas? Should I go ahead and keg, let it ferment a little while longer?

BTW, I pitched a Wyeast German Ale smack pack at around 75*F and have been fermenting in my dark closet with an ambient temp of between 65-68*F in a 6 gallon Ale Pail.

You're not getting accurate FG readings. Alcohol throws off the brix/SG. You have to run it through a correction calculator or use an hydrometer.

Instructions that tell you to just ferment a week are misleading. You can get done in that time period, but there's no guarantee.

 

[adpostel]

Correction Calculator? Well that's a new one. I suspect there is one online somewhere? I thought getting the adjustable refractometer was the cats meow for SG readings. I guess refractometer is OK for OG readings, but need to run numbers through a correction calculator for FG readings?

 

[OkashiiBrew]

Try this

http://www.davesdreaded.com/homebrew-calculator/

 

[adpostel]

So when I plugged in the gravity readings to the calculator, they only changed by about .001, from 1.020 to a corrected value of 1.021... doesn't that seem pretty negligible?

Also, should I attempt to get this fermentation restarted, or will that help it much? Instructions stated not to bottle if over 1.015. Target is 1.012....

 

[NivekD]

When I plug your numbers in, I get FG of 1.009.

I use THIS one.

 

[microbusbrewery]

Correction Calculator? Well that's a new one. I suspect there is one online somewhere? I thought getting the adjustable refractometer was the cats meow for SG readings. I guess refractometer is OK for OG readings, but need to run numbers through a correction calculator for FG readings?

The reason is that alcohol has a different refractive index than water. When you take your OG reading, all you have is water and dissolved sugars. After fermentation has started alcohol will be present so you have to correct for the refractive error. For most beers, as long as you have the correct OG the conversion formulas are pretty close. The only time they seem to be way off is with high gravity beers like barley wines and such.

 

[adpostel]

When I plug your numbers in, I get FG of 1.009.

I use THIS one.

Oh wow! Ya, when I convert the S.G.'s to Brix, then plug in the O.G. and F.G. in Brix, I get the FG conversion of 1.009, as well, with an ABV% of 4.87... Hope it tastes good, this should make for a nice beer.....

Ok, well, I guess it is time to keg.... So on to the next step... This is my first batch, so don' t be mad if I ask questions about kegging, But any advice is appreciated.

 

[adpostel]

The reason is that alcohol has a different refractive index than water. When you take your OG reading, all you have is water and dissolved sugars. After fermentation has started alcohol will be present so you have to correct for the refractive error. For most beers, as long as you have the correct OG the conversion formulas are pretty close. The only time they seem to be way off is with high gravity beers like barley wines and such.

Ya, just learing about that, cool... Thanks for your response...