Is a nema 6-20 to 10-30 adapter a feasible wiring option for my induction cooktop?

[KniepHaus]

I'm sorry if this is already answered. I want to do this the simplest way possible. I have a Cuisanyo (super off-brand) 3500w 240v induction plate I got used like new for very cheap on Amazon that uses a nema 6-20 plug and I only have one dryer outlet that's a 3 prong nema 10-30. I see where others keep asking questions about wiring cords but I would much rather find an adapter that would work. Is that safe to do? Is it really that much cheaper to wire it? I don't want to harm the product just yet in case I need to send it back. Has anyone else just bought an adapter and if so is there a cheap option? I've seen some expensive ones and some comparatively cheap ones but didn't know if there was anything I needed to watch out for in that regard. I have basically zero electrical wiring experience. Thanks guys.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm not aware of any pre-made adapters of that kind, but who knows... have you looked?
Some prebuilt adapters/extension cords come with a built-in GFCI, which adds a lot to the price. You really don't need a GFCI, unless you intent to flood the unit.

But you do need to make sure the unit is solidly grounded. The receptacle/plug connection usually provides the ground, but it should be checked that a connection to ground is actually exists. It's usually made in the main panel.

Although not really difficult, but since you have 0 wiring experience you should NOT attempt making your own. Maybe a friend with some electrical handiness can help?

Aside from replacing the plug, which will undoubtedly void your warranty/return policy, here are some alternatives:

• The easiest and probably cheapest method is to just replace the 10-30 receptacle with a 6-20 one.
• Or branch a 6-20 receptacle off the existing 10-30. That way both can still be used, but not at the same time of course.
• Make a "pigtail" adapter from a standard 10-30 plug (most come with a few feet of cord) to a 6-20 receptacle or a 6-20 extension cord socket.

 

[KniepHaus]

I'm not aware of any pre-made adapters of that kind, but who knows... have you looked?
Some prebuilt adapters/extension cords come with a built-in GFCI, which adds a lot to the price. You really don't need a GFCI, unless you intent to flood the unit.

But you do need to make sure the unit is solidly grounded. The receptacle/plug connection usually provides the ground, but it should be checked that a connection to ground is actually exists. It's usually made in the main panel.

Although not really difficult, but since you have 0 wiring experience you should NOT attempt making your own. Maybe a friend with some electrical handiness can help?

Aside from replacing the plug, which will undoubtedly void your warranty/return policy, here are some alternatives:

• The easiest and probably cheapest method is to just replace the 10-30 receptacle with a 6-20 one.
• Or branch a 6-20 receptacle off the existing 10-30. That way both can still be used, but not at the same time of course.
• Make a "pigtail" adapter from a standard 10-30 plug (most come with a few feet of cord) to a 6-20 receptacle or a 6-20 extension cord socket.

Thank you for the ideas. I ended up looking around, a lot, for a decently priced adapter. Most are $50+ dollars! I finally found one at Walmart though for $27 and some change. Those search engines just have a hell of a time finding what you type in though for these things. This is the title of the product I got: Accell P-10-30.USA-001 Nema 6-20 To Nema 10-30 Plug Adapter For Axfast Level 2 EVSE. I just hope there's no overload issues or anything like that.

 

[IslandLizard]

Awesome find! That's a search well done!
Adapter cord made for Electric cars... who would have guessed?

That cord should be fine for 20A.

Is it your intention to have your induction cooker that close to the dryer socket, or just luck?

 

[KniepHaus]

Awesome find! That's a search well done!
Adapter cord made for Electric cars... who would have guessed?

That cord should be fine for 20A.

Is it your intention to have your induction cooker that close to the dryer socket, or just luck?

We live in a condo with polished concrete floors and our washer/dryer area is basically in a pantry partition next to the kitchen so it's the perfect area really. Thanks again for the help

 

[IslandLizard]

We live in a condo with polished concrete floors and our washer/dryer area is basically in a pantry partition next to the kitchen so it's the perfect area really. Thanks again for the help

What are you doing for ventilation during the boil?

 

[KniepHaus]

What are you doing for ventilation during the boil?

I actually haven't done any all grain batches more than a 3 gallon at a time. I've done that twice now alongside a 5 gallon extract at the same time. So far we've just been doing it on our stove. If it feels too humid in there we can just run a fan through the sliding door screen but honestly it hasn't seemed too bad yet. I'm not planning to do more than 5 gallon all grain batches any time in the near future though.

 

[IslandLizard]

You should consider venting directly to the outside. An hour boil easily evaporates a gallon of water, and that's a lot or steam that condensates on walls, ceilings, and travels through ductwork and settles there. It's not just water turned to steam, it contains carry-over wort.

I brew in the kitchen and place a box fan in a window directly behind the kettle. There is no condensation on the walls or ceilings.

A condenser above the kettle is also a good alternative, and doesn't require venting.

 

[KniepHaus]

You should consider venting directly to the outside. An hour boil easily evaporates a gallon of water, and that's a lot or steam that condensates on walls, ceilings, and travels through ductwork and settles there. It's not just water turned to steam, it contains carry-over wort.

I brew in the kitchen and place a box fan in a window directly behind the kettle. There is no condensation on the walls or ceilings.

A condenser above the kettle is also a good alternative, and doesn't require venting.

Thanks again for the tips. Condenser sounds like a good idea. I just got to test out my adapter and all seems to be working great so far I just did a small 3 gallon boil with it to test the induction plate and the ball valve seals. Boiled in a little less than 15 min.

 

[IslandLizard]

There is a large and fairly recent thread in the DIY forum on building a boil condenser. I may be looking into that myself.

 

[matt_m]

I just made one of these for less than $20 with a dryer cord off eBay which will make my 30A dryer receptacle (or anyone's 30A dryer receptacle) into a couple 110 and a 20A 220v outlet.