First Big beer ris

[bigplunkett]

So this will ve the first really big beer ive done. Othere than a 8% dipa that was 7% sugar. Im think 5 gal, alao thinking about adding some burbon to it in the keg.

Mash at 152 75 min witb some added aphla

14# 2row
1.5# rolled oats
1# brown malt
1# victory
1# c 40
1# choclatemalt
1# roasted barley
.5# carra 2 or 3 or black pat
50 ish ibu @60 ctz 2 oz
1 oz Willamette @20 & @ 10
10 min irish moss and kdap
2 paks wlp 005

my guess is my eff wont be great with eiththis much grain shooting for 1.095 to 1.100

any sugestions or tips are welcome.

 

[Queequeg]

A few tips;

1) lower you expected mash eff. You want get you normal eff. I would drop it by 10% lower than you normal eff.
2) mash at low temperature. Even if you mash at 64°C then you will still end up with lots of residual dextrins.
3)mash over night. This splits up a long brew day and ensure best eff. Just make sure you mash out to ride the mash temp before leaving it and cover with plenty of insulation. This will stop souring
4) Do and extended boil to aid caramelization and to assist hitting FG.
5)pitch 1.5M/ml/°P. You going to need either a big starter or do a stepped starter.
6) pitch cool 18°C, keep there for 3 days and the ramp. Good temp control is important as things can get hot quick if left in only styles.
7) aerate with pure O2 twice, 1.5 mins before pitching and another 1.5 mins at 8 hrs.
8 ) have several lbs of extra light extract on hand in case you miss you target.

 

[bigplunkett]

So drop the mash temp to 150* idk about doing it over night i could go 2hrs if needed and depd on on pri boil gravity 90 min boil may be needed. How dose the grist look?

 

[snowtiger1987]

I would drop the brown malt and the crystal 40 in favor of a 1# special B addition. I find it lends a pleasant plum/raisin character without the need for extended aging to get it. You can up the base malt by 1# to make up the difference.

 

[Queequeg]

So drop the mash temp to 150* idk about doing it over night i could go 2hrs if needed and depd on on pri boil gravity 90 min boil may be needed. How dose the grist look?

I would mash at 148F. If you extend your mash to 2hrs and then do a 2 he boil to concentrate the wort your looking at a long brew day.

 

[Queequeg]

So drop the mash temp to 150* idk about doing it over night i could go 2hrs if needed and depd on on pri boil gravity 90 min boil may be needed. How dose the grist look?

I would mash at 148F. If you extend your mash to 2hrs and then do a 2 he boil to concentrate the wort your looking at a long brew day.

 

[bigplunkett]

So smash 148 just like an ipa 2hrs idk if my tun will keep it at that that long. Maby 149 to be safe. But ill give it a try 90 min to 2hr boil.

15# 2row
1# victory
1.5# rolled oats
1# spec b
1# choclate malt
1# roasted barly
8oz carra2
keep ibus the same 50 ibu ill have to work it out for 90 min
1oz Willamette @ 20min and 10
Kdap irish moss 10 min
more kdap day 2
I dont have pure o2 any ideas?
2 packs wlp 007 over 005 due to ac tolerance

 

[Kent88]

Have you plugged all this into any brewing software like BrewersFriend? That could give you an idea about what kind of OG you'll have, and if you have enough enzymes.

Here are some podcasts about mashing that I think are relevant, given some things that have been brought up: Part 1, Part 2. I don't recommend mashing for longer than 90 minutes if you don't have to. Longer mashes probably wont hurt anything as long as the temp stays above 140F and you keep it to a reasonable amount of time.

Should you decide to do a long mash, these calculators are good for estimating if you have enough capacity in your mash tun and calculating infusion water.

 

[bigplunkett]

I was going to add some alpha ensime to the mash water to make sure ive got enough. Im fine with 90min and i have iodine so i can make sure the startches are concerted. According to beersmith i should have 1.107 og thats at 70% eff witch is about where im at normally so if im at 1.090 or higher ill be happy.

 

[bigplunkett]

I should have enough space my mash ton is 48 qt.

 

[Kent88]

I have read that adding extra enzymes can lead to an overly dry beer. I have also read that you can counter that by adding the enzyme later in the mash as the enzyme will still denature during the mash out or boil.

I see you're also considering adding pure oxygen. I am pretty happy using an "aquarium-style" aerator, and for big beers I aerate when I add yeast, and then again 12-18 hours later. I have heard that for big beers you can aerate any time before vigorous krausen ends. Make sure you have plenty of yeast. I'd make a starter for a beer this big. You can't exactly make up for low cell count by adding extra oxygen.

 

[bigplunkett]

2 packs wont be enough? I dont have a stirplate will a starter still work

 

[Kent88]

There are tools to see if you have enough yeast. I think there is a site called something like "Mr. Malty", or I think you mentioned having beersmith, that probably has a pitching rate calculator.

I personally prefer yeast starters just because I know that those yeasts are healthy and active when I go to pitch. I like knowing that they didn't all die from improper handling or something. I also like to think that it does the yeast some good to get ready for a high-gravity wort by spending a little time in a low-gravity wort with a little better access to oxygen.

I don't have a stir-plate either. I just use a little extract to make a low-gravity wort, boil it briefly, and put it in a sanitized flask (like this one) and add the yeast when the temperature is below 100F. I used to use a 32 fluid ounce growler instead of a flask and it worked fine. Rather than using a stir-plate I just swirl up the starter every half hour to 45 minutes. Cover the growler or flask with a foam stopper, some foil, or even an airlock.