Does anyone make 90-degree MFL pin-lock disconnects?

[J2W2]

Hi,

The clearance in my keezer is tight - I'd say 1" max (probably a little less) between my gas and liquid lines and the keezer lid. Works perfectly fine, except I'd been tossing around the idea of getting some of the Plaato keg scales, which they say are 1" tall. I have pin-lock kegs, and I'm already using the shorter pin-lock disconnects (2.5" tall). I saw a previous post that mentioned stainless steel ball-lock disconnects with 90-degree MFLs, which I found on the MoreBeer site. But I was not able to find anyone that makes something similar for pin-locks, which isn't surprising.

I don't trust my current clearance, especially on the gas lines. If I happen to push down on one while I'm working in the keezer, they often hiss. I wouldn't want to drain a gas tank (or a keg) because the lid was pressing on a line. I could convert all my kegs to ball-lock and get new fittings, but the Plaatos are plenty expensive by themselves and the pin-locks are working fine so I'd hate to mess with them.

Thanks for the help!

 

[day_trippr]

fyi, if you cannot wiggle a pin lock gas QD without hearing CO2 escaping, there's a really good chance the keg has ball lock O-rings on the posts, which are incrementally thinner than legit pin lock post O-rings. I say really good chance, because it'd be an exception lhbs that knows there's a difference, and that difference tends to escape many web retailers as well.

Otherwise, there's nothing magical about a freezer lid liner. If yours has projections that are making your idea difficult (bt/dt) you can remove the entire lid liner and replace it with a piece of flat FRP sheet (for instance).

As for pin lock QDs, I have not seen any shorter than the CM Becker low profile models...

Cheers!

 

[J2W2]

fyi, if you cannot wiggle a pin lock gas QD without hearing CO2 escaping, there's a really good chance the keg has ball lock O-rings on the posts, which are incrementally thinner than legit pin lock post O-rings. I say really good chance, because it'd be an exception lhbs that knows there's a difference, and that difference tends to escape many web retailers as well.

I'll make sure to note any that have the issue and replace the O-rings when I cycle them through. I recently ordered packages of O-rings for my dip tubes and posts. They had two sizes of post O-rings, specifically marked for ball-lock or pin-lock, so they should be correct! Maybe it's time to replace all my O-rings as the kegs cycle out.

Otherwise, there's nothing magical about a freezer lid liner. If yours has projections that are making your idea difficult (bt/dt) you can remove the entire lid liner and replace it with a piece of flat FRP sheet (for instance).

My build has a completely replaced top. If you click on "My Coffin Keezer" in my signature line, you can get an idea of what it looks like. The fourth and last photo in my first post on that page shows a pretty good look of it with the lid in place, and with the lid removed and a few kegs in it. There you can see how close they are to the underside.

As for pin lock QDs, I have not seen any shorter than the CM Becker low profile models...

Not sure if mine are CMBs, but they are the same height (2.5").

 

[day_trippr]

Took a look at your original build (looks solid )
How hard would it be to add a "lift" to the bottom edge of the existing collar with, say, 1x2s? That would give you at least another 1-1/2" of head space.
You're obviously familiar with pocket screws (I love 'em to death!) which would make the actual addition pretty simple...

Cheers!

 

[J2W2]

How hard would it be to add a "lift" to the bottom edge of the existing collar with, say, 1x2s? That would give you at least another 1-1/2" of head space.
You're obviously familiar with pocket screws (I love 'em to death!) which would make the actual addition pretty simple...

That would be something to think about. The keezer is seven years old now. I'd like to replace the Johnson temperature controller with a Wi-Fi version, like one of the Inkbird's, so it had remote access, alarms, etc. I'd also like to take a look at the tower as I believe that may be where I'm not airtight and getting moisture pulled in. At that point maybe putting in new liquid lines.

On the other hand, it sit's in a corner and requires putting down a couple of sheets of 3/4" particle board, just so I can slide it forward off the cooling base and get behind it. And it's been working well for seven years - so if it ain't broke... Perhaps I need to have a few more beers and think about it!

Thanks for your input!