Wish they sold just the housing on it's own.
I have the enclose from brewhardware... Its works well but its not going to be as robust as these the shell is much thinner stamped stainless where these look to be machines and much more heavy duty the brew hardware one is longer and larger as well so if you bang your stuff around...
I think the ones mentioned above are the nema twqist lock style like this,Mine from BH has the same issue someone else has mentioned. The cord doesnt clamp in well with the plastic twist lock on the housing and is loose and the wires inside the cord sheath are exposed.It always makes me nervous when we're dealing with 240 and water
I cant imagine why this is. Our grips can lock down on 3/8" cords so 10/3 cable should be a no brainer.Mine from BH has the same issue someone else has mentioned. The cord doesnt clamp in well with the plastic twist lock on the housing and is loose and the wires inside the cord sheath are exposed.It always makes me nervous when we're dealing with 240 and water
Maybe you could shed some light on my issue. The sheath has slid down over the years. It was inside the clamp when I made the pot, probably the length of the paper. It gets moved a lot being I dont have a dedicated brew area. It kinda looks like the sheath is bunched up the first couple inches. If you zoom in it looks like there is clamp marks on the very edge of the black sheathing. If you look inside the black twist clamp it looks like either more sheathing and somehow the sheathing cracked perfectly round ..or cut by the clamp somehow which makes more sense....or...its some sort of padding that comes with the housing? I've just deal with it but I remember when I built the pot I was thinking...THis doesnt seem very tight....It could be my fault and I did something wrong...not putting the blame on you but now that we're talking about it'd be nice to fixI cant imagine why this is. Our grips can lock down on 3/8" cords so 10/3 cable should be a no brainer.
the black outer rubber sheathing was supposed to go all the way through the hole before you tightened it down. the picture shows some inside the hole as if the rubber spacer was left in the hole or thats a piece of the sheathing and it somehow ripped in a perfect line my guess is you cut that line when originally stripping the sheathing but it was still attached since you cut another line above it where you removed the other sheathing.Maybe you could shed some light on my issue. The sheath has slid down over the years. It was inside the clamp when I made the pot, probably the length of the paper. It gets moved a lot being I dont have a dedicated brew area. It kinda looks like the sheath is bunched up the first couple inches. If you zoom in it looks like there is clamp marks on the very edge of the black sheathing. If you look inside the black twist clamp it looks like either more sheathing and somehow the sheathing cracked perfectly round ..or cut by the clamp somehow which makes more sense....or...its some sort of padding that comes with the housing? I've just deal with it but I remember when I built the pot I was thinking...THis doesnt seem very tight....It could be my fault and I did something wrong...not putting the blame on you but now that we're talking about it'd be nice to fix
EDIT: now that I look at it closer it's gotta be sheathing in the clamp and it somehow got cut exactly where the clamp ends
Danger's my middle name [Austin Powers]You may want to think about redoing that connection Johnny, or we may be calling you SPARKYROTTEN soon.
On second thought knowing how you roll, you’ll likely put a couple wraps of electrical tape on it and call it good lol j/k
its possible I scored it twice and left it. Seems odd it would work out to exactly where the clamp ends with clamp marks on the end of the sheathing...but anythings possiblethe black outer rubber sheathing was supposed to go all the way through the hole before you tightened it down. the picture shows some inside the hole as if the rubber spacer was left in the hole or thats a piece of the sheathing and it somehow ripped in a perfect line my guess is you cut that line when originally stripping the sheathing but it was still attached since you cut another line above it where you removed the other sheathing.
Loosen it all the way, and get the larger part of the wire in there.Maybe you could shed some light on my issue. The sheath has slid down over the years. It was inside the clamp when I made the pot, probably the length of the paper. It gets moved a lot being I dont have a dedicated brew area. It kinda looks like the sheath is bunched up the first couple inches. If you zoom in it looks like there is clamp marks on the very edge of the black sheathing. If you look inside the black twist clamp it looks like either more sheathing and somehow the sheathing cracked perfectly round ..or cut by the clamp somehow which makes more sense....or...its some sort of padding that comes with the housing? I've just deal with it but I remember when I built the pot I was thinking...THis doesnt seem very tight....It could be my fault and I did something wrong...not putting the blame on you but now that we're talking about it'd be nice to fix
EDIT: now that I look at it closer it's gotta be sheathing in the clamp and it somehow got cut exactly where the clamp ends
I used a step bit for the holes , they come out to about 1 1/4" but check at each step when you get close. I also bought on Amazon the 1" npt nuts front dernord but they did not work,too big. Ended up buying from bargain fittings, I believe they are 1" NPS nuts with gasket. Bought my 3 wire cord at home Depot by the foot.I just bought this same element, how are you guys mounting it to your kettles/what size hole did you make for it? I'm having the hardest time finding any info on this, and it seems like you guys have that part figured out.
or use a weldless TC fitting like I did.Dernord makes a 5500W 240V element with tri clamp mounting that uses L6-30 twist lock plug. Model # X001KEWVP. They work very well in my HLT and BK.
To convert your kettle, all you need to do is weld, braze or silver solder a tri clamp ferule in a hole you drill in kettle.
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