That’s what I thought. Also see that regarding dry hopping. I can see how that is an advantage in that the conversion to YOUR units is already done. I have finally gotten a handle on how the API interfaces with Node Red .
BruControl: Brewery control & automation software
- Thread starter BrunDog
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Anyone have a script to calculate a DateTime Start Cold Crash date from a DateTime Start Fermentation Date
Example: I have a Start Fermentation DateTime of 06/07/2024
I want to Ferment for 14 days before I cold crash,
I want the date I start DateTime Start Cold Crash 14 days from the Start Fermentation Date
Example: I have a Start Fermentation DateTime of 06/07/2024
I want to Ferment for 14 days before I cold crash,
I want the date I start DateTime Start Cold Crash 14 days from the Start Fermentation Date
@BrunDog
if you have a global value type, you get an error
Expected Value Type
when you use the displayname in a script
example:
You have "Global 1" as a value type.
You have "Global 1" displayname = "xyz"
You get the Error
Expected Value Type
if you change the Global 1 to a String it works fine.
You get a similar error with
Boolean
Time
DateTime
The displayname will only work with a String Type.
if you have a global value type, you get an error
Expected Value Type
when you use the displayname in a script
example:
You have "Global 1" as a value type.
You have "Global 1" displayname = "xyz"
You get the Error
Expected Value Type
if you change the Global 1 to a String it works fine.
You get a similar error with
Boolean
Time
DateTime
The displayname will only work with a String Type.
Anyone have experience overloading or hurting the AA-1? I an using 2 channels of one to signal some Johnson Controls water valves. I am using a meanwell 12V supply input and 0-10V output and they have worked for many years. I have not used my system for about 4 months and when I went to use it, Channel 1 valve was not working, I checked voltage a the terminal block in my panel that went to the valve and no voltage. no voltage at the output of the AA-1, but 4.86 volts at the input (mega powered by USB). I swapped the output signal from channel 2 and it seemed to kill that also, I have not calibrated channel 3 and four, but they seem dead too... I have an entire spare board, the LT1639 chip is replaceable, and the datasheet says it can have a complete short on the input as long as I do not overheat the entire chip (This depends on the power supply voltage and how many amplifiers are shorted).. Max current stated in the product note of the AA-1 is 45ma, but not really something I can fuse or protect... I guess I calibrate the spare board, replace the suspect valve and hope for the best? Maybe test the suspect valve with a 5V supply (50% open and ammeter?
Did you make sure your ground was connected? Sounds like you have voltage in but maybe the circuit isnt complete?
The other one worked until I messed with it, and the AA-1, and both proportional valves have the same ground terminal on my DIN rail... the AA-1 has power and a good ground and is not outputting voltage.
Started up the software and it successfully verified for me. I am on Professional as well.
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
1.1.0.4 , upgrading now in hopes that sorts it, tanks getting hot
That sorted it . thanks
Last edited:
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
Looks like the certificate expired on the license server the older versions used. You are doing the right thing in upgrading for a quick resolution.
Close BruControl.
Go to documents/ BruControl and get rid of the settings file (settings.brusettings)
When you open BruControl again, it will be set to the default configuration.
A new generic settings.brusettings will be created.
Go to settings then license. Enter your e mail. You will need to select your configuration as well and also go to data exchange and enable the service
Last edited:
Always the best answer!
enzedBru
New Member
Whew... Finally made it through all 8000 posts on this thread. I'm planning to move to electric from gas, and Brucontrol looks like the hands-down best option out there. I'd love to start my build with the latest tech for futureproofing, starting with the esp32-s3. From what I can gather, there is still only a beta version of that out there, is that correct? Should I be concerned that we still don't have a published firmware for it a year out from beta? I noticed a distinct drop-off of brunDog's activity recently, and no posts in the last 7 months. I don't want to sound pessimistic but just making sure the product hasn't reached end-of-life before I jump in with both feet. Is it more a case of the product has reached a maturity level that the community can support it on it's own without BrunDog's help?
The program side is fairly stable ( although we are all waiting for the release of version 2).
I oersonally use the Mega and those are still available.
You are somewhat dependent on some items from BruControl although if you know what you are doing, you could do the circuits yourself (RTD, 10 K Probes although one wire hardly needs anything).
Hey All, interested to see if anyone has encountered a situation where their Uniflex v2 (with nothing plugged in) does not default to "access point mode" when powered on?
Notes:
No 3.5mm jacks plugged in
No I/O plugged in
No 120v/240v plugged in
Confirmed power is on (bluelight and fans running)
I've searched with both a windows laptop for SSIDs being broadcast and also an apple device looking for signals coming from the Uniflex...neither with any luck.
I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something obvious.
Notes:
No 3.5mm jacks plugged in
No I/O plugged in
No 120v/240v plugged in
Confirmed power is on (bluelight and fans running)
I've searched with both a windows laptop for SSIDs being broadcast and also an apple device looking for signals coming from the Uniflex...neither with any luck.
I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something obvious.
[Update]
After swapping out the ESP32 board with a known good, I'm back in action. I haven't done any diagnostics on the old board yet, but at least I'm back online.
exoticatom
Well-Known Member
bumpHey there!With Easter just around the corner, I can't help but wonder: are there any secret surprises tucked away in the potential BruControl update? Like hidden gems waiting to be discovered?
@BrunDog
Or is it End of life?
Hey there!
Or is it End of life?
Double bump.
Piggles22
Active Member
Hopefully this forum is still active. It’s been awhile since I last checked. I’m in the process of upgrading my computer and need to transfer my BC activation. I’ve downloaded the latest version of BC and when I enter my activation email I get a message telling me to deactivate it my other computer. Does anyone know how to do this?
Basically go to the old computer and delete the c:\documents\brucontrol\settings.brusettings
This will remove that computer and hopefully allow you to get one the new one. If you have not upgraded to firmware v46, that is a significant update and requires some action on your part. If you have any Analog Inputs, it is more challanging.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...ntrol-automation-software.624198/post-9310064
This will remove that computer and hopefully allow you to get one the new one. If you have not upgraded to firmware v46, that is a significant update and requires some action on your part. If you have any Analog Inputs, it is more challanging.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...ntrol-automation-software.624198/post-9310064
I contacted Peter at [email protected] when I changed computers and he was able to deactivate the (licence) on the old one which allowed me to install (licence) on the new one. Make sure you backup your config files and transfer them to the new upgrade files you just downloaded.
Didn't take much time from contacting him to installing a new copy of the software.
Anyone have experience successfully using "US Solid" 2 way valves (2-wire auto-close) (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WWPZWGZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) with the Uniflex?
If so, would you be willing to share a wiring diagram?
I have a few new use cases that I may want to use these for around the brewery, but wanted to make sure they're viable.
If so, would you be willing to share a wiring diagram?
I have a few new use cases that I may want to use these for around the brewery, but wanted to make sure they're viable.
I like 3 wire like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-St...olid+ball+valve+stainless,aps,147&sr=8-4&th=1
I have tried the auto return, the five wire and reverse polarity but the 3 wire are the best. You have to use 2 digital outputs (one to open, one to close.
The advantage is that you can leave it open after cleaning to air dry.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-St...olid+ball+valve+stainless,aps,147&sr=8-4&th=1
I have tried the auto return, the five wire and reverse polarity but the 3 wire are the best. You have to use 2 digital outputs (one to open, one to close.
The advantage is that you can leave it open after cleaning to air dry.
I wire it like this. I have 24 v LEDs (We use 24 v to operate the valves, 12 v is plenty) )that also light up when they valve is commanded. This is simply a power light and does not indicate open or closed. You need 5 wire for that but because they (5 wire)are reverse polarity, they are a PITA!
I connect via 3 pin connectors so I can replace the valve quickly. The LEDs have their own 3 pin.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
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I have also used the 3-wire US solid valves and had two of them fail after a few months. I have since switched to the Brucontrol valves. I was just using them for water, max temp of 150F, well below the max rating of 194F.
I have also had a couple of failure, but out of the box but I sent them
Back.
Back.
I have three of the 3-wire spring return 'solid' valves and been operating since 2019-2020 with no issues.
Just in case @BrunDog is listening... MAX31888 would be a great addition...
General Description
The MAX31888 is a 1-Wire high precision, low power
digital temperature sensor with ±0.25ºC accuracy from
-20ºC to +105ºC for precision temperature monitoring. The
MAX31888 operates at 68μA operating current during
measurement and has 16-bit resolution (0.005ºC).
General Description
The MAX31888 is a 1-Wire high precision, low power
digital temperature sensor with ±0.25ºC accuracy from
-20ºC to +105ºC for precision temperature monitoring. The
MAX31888 operates at 68μA operating current during
measurement and has 16-bit resolution (0.005ºC).
Apologies for a fairly basic question (I think), but does the input (eg thermistor) and output (eg SSR control wire) for a PID element need to be on the same interface, or can we split it and have for eg some inputs on one ESP32 and the associated outputs on another?
Have to be on the same interface. I asked this a long time ago and the response was because of “safety”, the PID could overheat if the other interface where the input was went down. When you are in the PID Element pane, you can only select inputs on the same interface.
See my post
AA-1 IC died due to one of my Johnson proportional valves drawing too much current (30mA+). The other three channels worked, but when I went to use one, I killed the entire chip. Then I killed the IC I borrowed from my spare AA-1, that is when I got out the millamp meter.
The LT1639CN is discontinued, it can be found, but is $12 each... I found a similar LT1014CN is cheap on ebay ($10 for 10), the difference is 22V rating instead of 44V, so if you are using 12V, you should be good.. I will buy the 44V version when I get the problem sorted, but not sure what is going on, I swapped the valve control for a brand new one and same issue, so I have tome troubleshooting to do.... anyway, if you have an AA-1 and need a cheap spare, eBay has your hookup.
The LT1639CN is discontinued, it can be found, but is $12 each... I found a similar LT1014CN is cheap on ebay ($10 for 10), the difference is 22V rating instead of 44V, so if you are using 12V, you should be good.. I will buy the 44V version when I get the problem sorted, but not sure what is going on, I swapped the valve control for a brand new one and same issue, so I have tome troubleshooting to do.... anyway, if you have an AA-1 and need a cheap spare, eBay has your hookup.
storunner13
Well-Known Member
Question on pressure/volume sensors. I'm planning to add pressure sensors to my 2 vessel system. Considering the pros/cons of a bottom vs side mount for the sensors.
Bottom mount:
Pros -- measurement to zero volume.
Cons -- higher potential for overloading the sensor, liquid retention if tri clamp fitting (0 retention if selecting NPT fitting).
Side mount:
Pros -- low risk for overloading, no liquid retention
Cons -- No volume measured until ~1.5-2 gallons (in my vessel)
Are the risks of a bottom mount worth the added visibility to <1.5 gallons? I could reduce the risk by installing directly beneath the heating element. Are the NPT volume sensors still accurate (flush mount)? I assume they should be fine, but hoping someone has some experience. Reading back through this thread, flow meter is likely a better indicator of volume transferred, which reduces the value of a pressure sensor.
Help me make a decision on this..!
Bottom mount:
Pros -- measurement to zero volume.
Cons -- higher potential for overloading the sensor, liquid retention if tri clamp fitting (0 retention if selecting NPT fitting).
Side mount:
Pros -- low risk for overloading, no liquid retention
Cons -- No volume measured until ~1.5-2 gallons (in my vessel)
Are the risks of a bottom mount worth the added visibility to <1.5 gallons? I could reduce the risk by installing directly beneath the heating element. Are the NPT volume sensors still accurate (flush mount)? I assume they should be fine, but hoping someone has some experience. Reading back through this thread, flow meter is likely a better indicator of volume transferred, which reduces the value of a pressure sensor.
Help me make a decision on this..!
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