That definately has a huge cool factor. Setups like that are the reason I am persuing a degree in Electro-Mechanical engineering.
Same problem I have. Must establish Phase 1 before I can move on to the even cooler phase 2That is RAD!:rockin:
Even if the camera is not that useful it definatly has the cool factor going. I am really starting to think that Phase 2 of my build might have to be pc based operation. Seeing some of these threads lately is inspiring. Just need to get it complete and running first then plan for phase 2
The temperature sensors are K-type thermocouples from Omega. I use MAX6675 converters and the Arduino SPI library to interface with them.
LM34 and LM35 sensors are cheap and easy to use, but building them a waterproof casing that maintains a reasonable response time is a bit of a pain (epoxy is a great, simple solution if you're willing to wait a long time for the temp to stabilize). So, I went with grounded thermocouples. Omega will custom make a ton of different configurations for rather reasonable prices. All of mine are stainless probes brazed onto stainless NPT fittings.
I may still use LM-series sensors for other projects (like a kegerator or fermentation cabinet).
*looks at 40qt leaky Igloo cooler mash tun, and feels inadequate*
Here is the Java code I have cobbled together for a PID loop that can compensate for small and large input ranges, integral limit to control windup, and has a calculation cycle time adjustment.
<<snip>>
Ok, so it's not perfect naming convention. But that's some fine code. It's well organized, easy to decipher, and likely works well.I don't approve of your style of beginning variables with a capital letter...
Another success! I think because I used PWM to throttle back the boil, my boil off rate was much reduced,
I used trial and error to determine a pulse width that would keep a rolling boil. Using temperature as a gauge really doesn't work well, since the temperature of a violent boil is nearly identical to the temperature of a simmer. I found that throttling back to about 50% kept the boil rolling really well.Did you determine your pulse width experimentally or did you use a feedback loop with a variable setpoint? I'm wondering if setting the boil to 212, 213, or some other temp would be optimal for a good steady boil without overdriving the element.
Using temperature as a gauge really doesn't work well, since the temperature of a violent boil is nearly identical to the temperature of a simmer.
That's exactly what I was thinking. Perhaps a PID algorithm isn't really needed at all. Simply 100% duty cycle until 212 (adjusted for altitude) and then go to 50%. I wouldn't think it would need allowance for a small amount of overshoot.
By the way, awesome brew hut! I'll be building in the basement but I don't think I'll be hitting your standard. I haven't finished rebuilding the entire inside of my house yet.
You know, I'm really regretting not putting a temp sensor in the boil kettle. In fact, I nearly wrote the code to do exactly what you suggested, Fingers, until I remembered that "tempKettle" didn't exist! I think I'll probably add another thermocouple soon.
I think 'sugar water' will boil a little higher, at least in the little I've done.
That sounds like a fine approach. I would use the following conditions: temp greater than 200° AND stable over a long enough period of time to assure that the temperature rise is complete. That way there's no chance that you'll throttle the element back at a low temp. I have not specifically measured and charted the rise time, but I think you can be reasonably assured that the temperature will stabilize +/- one degree once a boil is achieved.I am going to try the changing temperature approach, when the BK temp is the same for 3 cycles 30 seconds apart then boil is true. I was wondering if you have had the time to monitor BK temp to see if temperature rise stops at boil.
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