Yet another water report..where to go from here?

[arnobg]

From what I understand, my water company said the pH and hardness can vary by the time of year.

pH: 7.3
TDS: 75
Sodium: 8
Calcium: 11
Potassium: 2
Magnesium: 4
Total Hardness: 44
Nitrate: 0.4
Sulfate: 2
Chloride: 9
Carbonate: <1.0
Bicarbonate: 53
Total Alkalinity: 44
Total Phosphorus: 0.03
Total Iron: 0.02

 

[McKnuckle]

Plug your numbers into the Source Water section of the Brewer's Friend advanced water calculator. Then play around with grist bills to see how things work out.

You have low minerals, but moderate residual alkalinity that must be overcome to reach optimal mash pH. Compared to RO/DI water, you'll need to add more salts - up to the practical flavor limit - and then augment with acid to get down to a mash pH of 5.4-5.5 (room temp). That's with a very light colored grain bill. With a dark/roasted bill, things will fall into place with only a moderate amount of salts and no acid.

In short, this is very workable water, but it does require some treatment to be ideal. Now it's up to you to experiment with the various water tools and learn how it theoretically performs.

 

[arnobg]

Thanks for your input. I need to do some more reading, specifically on the mash ph.

As far as continuing with BIAB with no changes until I know what exactly to do, is there anything that looks unacceptable for making decent beer that needs attention ASAP?

I've been making what other people call great, but what I would call good beer. Just looking to take it to the next level.

 

[McKnuckle]

It's hard for me to advise here, because I've become "sold" on some of the basic water concepts, like keeping mash pH between 5.4-5.5 and having at least 40 ppm of Calcium in the mash. My house has well water, and I brewed 10 troubled batches before getting it tested and realizing it was horrible. So I had to learn how to build water from the ground up.

The biggest trouble your water will give you is in the pH department. If you play around with different malt bills using one of the online water tools, you'll see that it hovers in the 5.7-5.8 range with most yellow to golden beers. When you get into amber and brown territory, it approaches 5.6. Only once you reach dark, roasted beers like stout does it venture into the ideal pH range.

How has your mash efficiency been with your brewing efforts so far? Any astringent or surprisingly bitter flavors with the lighter beers you've brewed?

 

[The_Bishop]

That water is actually not too bad. The minerals are low enough that you can augment them to match the style of beer, and you'll only need modest acid additions for lighter styles.

I recommend Bru'n Water. It's a lot to get your head wrapped around but not impossible, and the quality of your beer will improve.

 

[arnobg]

It's hard for me to advise here, because I've become "sold" on some of the basic water concepts, like keeping mash pH between 5.4-5.5 and having at least 40 ppm of Calcium in the mash. My house has well water, and I brewed 10 troubled batches before getting it tested and realizing it was horrible. So I had to learn how to build water from the ground up.

The biggest trouble your water will give you is in the pH department. If you play around with different malt bills using one of the online water tools, you'll see that it hovers in the 5.7-5.8 range with most yellow to golden beers. When you get into amber and brown territory, it approaches 5.6. Only once you reach dark, roasted beers like stout does it venture into the ideal pH range.

How has your mash efficiency been with your brewing efforts so far? Any astringent or surprisingly bitter flavors with the lighter beers you've brewed?

So far the beers have been pretty good in my opinion and others, then again none of us except maybe me have a palate for noticing certain flavors and characteristics. I've done some amber/red colored ales which have been pretty good. I brewed the famous Centennial Blonde which was also very good, but it has this hint of a "tartness" to it which I don't know what to blame.

My mash efficiency has been fantastic, right around 80-81% consistently except for a wheat beer which I blame the crush for.

Guess I need to read, read, and read more before adding anything, I've messed with Bru'n water a bit but the mash pH is slightly above my head, as is what additions to make to my water (there are so many different ones that seem to do the same things) and when to make them on brew day....

Cheers

 

[McKnuckle]

I brewed the famous Centennial Blonde which was also very good, but it has this hint of a "tartness" to it which I don't know what to blame.

That is exactly a symptom of a too-high mash pH. And a light colored beer will cause that with your water.

Bru'n Water is popular but I find it overkill, esp. for the newbie. I won't go into that here. But I prefer the Brewer's Friend advanced water calculator. It is easier to use for me, because I like its "try and see" empirical approach. You enter your water profile; you enter your grain bill; then you plug in various weights for the salts and watch what the predicted results are. It will show you the mash pH and mineral levels.

I have a certain KISS approach to water rather than trying to match a historical or stylistic water profile. I can go into that via PM but don't want to stir up the inevitable academic debate in this thread.

 

[arnobg]

I'm about to place an order including water additives.

What are the basics I want to make sure and get for now? There are multiple types of salts and acids etc. and I realize I have a LOT of research and reading to do. Just looking for advice on what are a must have based off of my water profile.

That is exactly a symptom of a too-high mash pH. And a light colored beer will cause that with your water.

Bru'n Water is popular but I find it overkill, esp. for the newbie. I won't go into that here. But I prefer the Brewer's Friend advanced water calculator. It is easier to use for me, because I like its "try and see" empirical approach. You enter your water profile; you enter your grain bill; then you plug in various weights for the salts and watch what the predicted results are. It will show you the mash pH and mineral levels.

I have a certain KISS approach to water rather than trying to match a historical or stylistic water profile. I can go into that via PM but don't want to stir up the inevitable academic debate in this thread.

If you don't mind that would be great. Appreciate such a helpful effort. Love that about this forum, people always willing to help!

 

[McKnuckle]

The essential KISS water kit would be gypsum, calcium chloride, baking soda, and 88% lactic acid solution. Acidulated malt is an alternative to the lactic acid, but I have not used it yet in my explorations.