Yet another Corny Kegerator Build

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hunter306

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Finished my Kegerator Build this evening, just used an old Danby Millennium Fridge I snagged off of Craigslist.

Parts List:
-Danby DAR452 BL Compact Fridge (Room for 2 Cornys Side-By-Side+C02)
-White Hardboard
-Standard Hardboard
-2x Ball Lock Keg Fittings
-Numerous Hose Clamps
-KROME 2-Tap Tower
-2x KROME Faucets
-2x Ball Lock Gas Fittings
-Various Lengths of Hose for Gas/Beer

Here it was as I picked it up from Craigslist for 75 dollars.

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Tore out the shelves, drawer, and the door to test fit a keg.

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Removed the organizer from the door and replaced with a piece of white hardboard (dry erase board).

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Reinstalled the door with the flat board.

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Removed the top plastic tray piece and exposed the metal shell. I measured to the back of the fridge where the cooling plate was and then shifted my measurement forward about a half inch. Positioned the gasket and taped it to use as a guide.

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Initially I started to drill this, but I wanted to try to remove the metal skin without piercing the foam (so I didn't hit anything inside, if it happened to be in the way). Used a dremel with a Diamond Cutoff disk to cut through.

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Again, trying not to run into anything important I just used a bamboo skewer to pick out the foam. Fortunately, absolutely nothing was in the way except a plastic screw anchor for the light insided which was easily removed.

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Cleaned out down to the plastic inner wall of the fridge:

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Used a drill to make some guide hole in the plastic shell (Be careful of the thermostat wire inside, it runs dangerously close to this 3" Cutout). I also removed the plastic thermostat box and the light from the top of the fridge to get it out of the way of the hole.

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Ended up cutting the fridge light compartment off the thermostat box and removed the light entirely. I shrink wrapped the connections to prevent them from shorting and tucked them into the thermostat box.

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Reinstalled with the lamp compartment removed:

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Started to trace out the cutouts for the decorative top tray and the stiffener board that I put under the tray. The hardboard was laminated (2 layers thick) to give additional structure to the tower when you're pulling the levers.

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Put some silicone adhesive around the hole and on various parts of the stiffening board.

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Used metal duct tape to seal off the foam from the cold compartment.

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Reattached the top tray and drilled the base holes for the tap-tower.

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Couple of final pictures. I didn't put the C02 tank in yet because it's busy carbing another keg!

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Let me know if you have any questions. :mug:
 
Before you get too far along and try and get some good pours, i would trade out that tubing for 10ish feet of 3/16" ID.
 
Looks like it's got 5ft of 3/16" ID Bevlex 200 on it right now. Assuming additional length to smooth out the pours?

Also, Is it worth running the stock Chrome Plated faucets or should I just swap them out for perlick 525's immediately.
 
the extra feet of tubing will help with the pressure drop. But if it is 3/16" id give it a try before swapping it out. I was assuming it was 1/4", which would give much worse results.
 
Looks like it's got 5ft of 3/16" ID Bevlex 200 on it right now. Assuming additional length to smooth out the pours?

Also, Is it worth running the stock Chrome Plated faucets or should I just swap them out for perlick 525's immediately.

Yes, you can get a couple faucet's for from here for $32.99 plus shipping each:

http://www.homebrewing.org/Perlick-Stainless-Steel-525ss-Perl-Faucet_p_2102.html

I'm making the switch to of 4 of my regular chrome taps shortly.
 
Ended up selling the Krome Taps on the Classifieds here and will make the move to Perlick 525SS before pouring a drop from the kegerator. As it will see more infrequent use, the less-apt-to-stick Perlicks made more sense.

Anyone have any experience with the VentMatic Faucets? Curious if they are worth trying to track down over the Perlicks. I did read that perlick acknowledges an issue with 525's leaking after use, but I'm not sure how widespread that is.
 
This is great! How did you managed to get the door compartment off? I'm struggling with a Dremel, but your job looks very clean. Did it screw off?
 
I took the entire door gasket off, pull it back a bit, and you should find fasteners under the magnetic lip. Unscrew those screws (in my case) and the whole gasket was loose. Then I just peeled the hard plastic comparment off of the foam.

The hardboard was 3/16" thick, but I layered 2-pieces (laminated together).
 

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