Yes..another burner question.

[BeerGuy1000]

Ok so I have decided on the burners I want http://www.williamsbrewing.com/HURRICANE-LOW-PRESSURE-BURNER-NO-STAND-P2677.aspx and I was just wondering the regulator they sell http://www.williamsbrewing.com/LPG-HOSE-AND-REGULATOR-FOR-HURRICANE-BURNER-P2676.aspx do you have to have that regulator or will any low pressure regulator work? Also the valve they have say that you need them for the burner to work with a propane tank http://www.williamsbrewing.com/HURRICANE-BURNER-LPG-GAS-VALVE-P2690.aspx but I don’t want a ball valve, I want something with a little more control like a needle valve like this one http://www.bigway.com/image-viewer.htm?gallery/F30-1.jpg so I want to know if I can use it on my setup or do I have to buy the three valves, and regulator from Williams for this all to work? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[rdharris55]

You could do something like this http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/5hpr30-high-pressure-propane-regulator-kit.htm I have one and the needle valve works quite nicely.

 

[BeerGuy1000]

That’s for high pressure I don't think that will work for the burners I'm getting, also I wasn’t planning on putting the valve by the regulator I was going to put them by the burner.

 

[jcaudill]

How many burners? You're going to have to think about the overall picture. You need a regulator right at the tank to bring the pressure down - but then you need to think about how you're going to control heat at each burner. Some burners might require better control than others. Example: I use a 0-30 at the tank but I also have a 0-10 at the mash tun for really fine control. Needle valves do this to an extent but don't have as fine as control as regulator do.

I will point you to a couple places that have good products:

http://www.tejassmokers.com

http://www.flameengineering.com/Parts_Accessories.html (specifically needle/ball valves)

http://www.agrisupply.com/bg-high-pressure-cast-iron-burner-/p/64494/ss/burner/ (same burner, 10 bucks cheaper - note on both accounts I believe you'll need to buy an orifice)

http://www.agrisupply.com/burners-regulators/c/5400001/c2c/sc/

 

[BeerGuy1000]

I am going to have three burners connected to a manifold like this https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show-us-your-sculpture-brew-rig-46578/index3.html but instead of thoughts ball valves i want needle valves all low pressure so i was just wondering if i have to have the regulator and valve for the burners i want that Williams sell or can I use any valve or regulator

 

[jcaudill]

There is nothing special about their regulator. You can get a regulator from any of the places I linked previously. I would look at agrisupply as they are generally the least expensive.

BTW - this low pressure high pressure thing is a bit of a farce. Technically anything over 1psi is consider high pressure. So I would not get too hung up on that. Most of it will be determined by what orifice you get for the burners, and what regulator(s) you choose. If you get an adjustable regulator (say 0-30 psi, which is what I did and would do) then you'll be able to dial it in. I wouldn't get fixed pressure regulators.

 

[BeerGuy1000]

So what about the valve can I get the needle valves I want or do I have to have the ones they sell, and do they put them on the burner or can I just put a brass valve on the burner and the valves on down on the manifold.

 

[jcaudill]

The first thing you need to find out is if those burners come with orifices or not. From the picture it looks like not in which case that's the very first thing you're attaching to the burner. From there, you're attaching some kind of hose (most people use appliance connectors or hard plumbing) to the orifice and then plumbing to the manifold. You could use needle valves to control each burner. I'd also have a ball valve before the needle because once you dial in your needle valve you don't want to be messing with it everytime. Needle valves are good for controlling pressure - but regulators are even better. So if you need better control somewhere, then using a regulator in place of the needle valve might be a good idea. Typically it's the mash tun burner we're concerned about in this respect. Why the difference? It might takes 3 or 4 turns to go 0-15 PSI on a needle valve, versus 10 or 11 on a 0-15 psi regulator (these numbers are estimated but you get the idea). More turns - finer control.

 

[BeerGuy1000]

I cant seem to find any orifices for the burner anyone know were I can get some?

 

[Bobby_M]

Are you sure they don't come with an orifice? It would be impossible to use without them so I'm confused why they would sell without. Did you ask?

The only challenge you face is converting the threads on the orifice with whatever your desired valve has. Both the BG-10 and BG-14 burners have 1/8" NPT female threads on the casting. I know on the BG-10, the supplied orifice has 1/8" NPT male threads on the burner side (obviously) and usually 3/8" male flare on the hose side. You can easily flare a piece of 3/8" OD copper and connect it to the flare connection with a flare nut. From there you can attach a needle valve with integrated compression fittings or use flare there as well. A compression fitting can also convert to NPT if necessary.

 

[jcaudill]

Maybe this would be a better start: http://kegcowboy.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=215. This will take care of the propane tank to rail too.

Bobby - I have notice many places selling these without orifices. No idea why! This may or may not be the case with Williams - they don't say so I'd ask. And if they don't - order from agrisupply and save yourself money.

 

[BeerGuy1000]

Sweet that is a nice find I might have to get that instead, will it be a problem automating thoughts or is it pretty easy?

 

[jcaudill]

There will be no problem automating it. It's just another piece of plumbing in the grand scheme.

 

[BeerGuy1000]

Sweet, I thought high pressure was a pain to automate that why I was going for low pressure but if it's not then this is a great deal I’ve seen. Thanks for the find.

 

[jcaudill]

"High Pressure" is no pain to automate at all. People usually go "Low Pressure" for safety factor. But let's be honest: at 10 or even 20 PSI we're still not talking huge amounts of pressure that are going to cause any kind of significant event. Also - I don't care how much "safety" you build into your stand - you still need to be keeping a watchful eye over it.

Noticed I use a lot of quoting up there specifically on the pressures - this is just to emphasize that low pressure is considered to be < 1 PSI and high is anything 1 and above. You can get yourself all kinds of caught up in that low and high pressure talk.

 

[jcaudill]

I should add - I automate high pressure with a simple 110v gas solenoid valve, a Honeywell Q314A pilot light and Brewtroller.

JP