Yeast help please
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madscientist451
Well-Known Member
What is it you are trying to clone?
If M/J means Mangrove Jack, I believe the M54 is a lager yeast?
Mangrove Jack's M44 is the West Coast ale yeast.
Where did the clone recipe come from?
If you are trying to clone a commercial beer, I'm a little skeptical that the original brewery used that yeast, but its possible.
Having said that, If you use the M44, you beer will be fine, it just might not be a clone.
If M/J means Mangrove Jack, I believe the M54 is a lager yeast?
Mangrove Jack's M44 is the West Coast ale yeast.
Where did the clone recipe come from?
If you are trying to clone a commercial beer, I'm a little skeptical that the original brewery used that yeast, but its possible.
Having said that, If you use the M44, you beer will be fine, it just might not be a clone.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Are you sure? That looks like it's trying to say Mangrove Jack's M44 West Coast Ale Yeast, M54 is their Californian Lager strain.
The exact relationships aren't certain, but the reports of M44 being a slow starter suggests it's probably similar to Lallemand BRY-97 rather than the Chico family (US-05, WLP001, Wyeast 1056) which is the first thing people think of as a "West Coast Yeast".
The exact relationships aren't certain, but the reports of M44 being a slow starter suggests it's probably similar to Lallemand BRY-97 rather than the Chico family (US-05, WLP001, Wyeast 1056) which is the first thing people think of as a "West Coast Yeast".
Clone recipes are rarely accurate to the real thing, or don't even resemble it, except for a catchy, similar sounding name.
It's not just the list of ingredients that makes a recipe, the methods, the process of brewing make all the difference. As homebrewers, we can't replicate the breweries' processes, while small deviations throughout the processes yield different beers when homebrewers brew the same recipe.
So relax, brew the recipe as close and well as you can or see fit.
Use a yeast you can easily obtain, suits the style of the beer, and most importantly, enjoy the results.
The Chico strain is a very good yeast for West Coast Ales/IPAs, and every yeast manufacturer offers it under their name. Safale US-05, Mangrove Jack M44, Lallemand BRY-97, etc. are pretty much the same (dry) yeast.
It's not just the list of ingredients that makes a recipe, the methods, the process of brewing make all the difference. As homebrewers, we can't replicate the breweries' processes, while small deviations throughout the processes yield different beers when homebrewers brew the same recipe.
So relax, brew the recipe as close and well as you can or see fit.
Use a yeast you can easily obtain, suits the style of the beer, and most importantly, enjoy the results.
The Chico strain is a very good yeast for West Coast Ales/IPAs, and every yeast manufacturer offers it under their name. Safale US-05, Mangrove Jack M44, Lallemand BRY-97, etc. are pretty much the same (dry) yeast.
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On a side note, one rarely needs 2 packs of dry yeast in a 5 gallon batch of beer, unless it's super high gravity (above 1.080). For most beers under 1.060-1.070 OG one properly rehydrated 10-11 gram pouch of yeast is sufficient.
Rehydrate* the packet of yeast exactly to the manufacturer's instructions (they all have a different method), and pitch in a well aerated (or oxygenated) wort of the correct temperature, for ales typically around 64-68°F, depending on the yeast.
Ferment at the lower side of the yeast's temp range for best results. Some form of fermentation temperature control is recommended. Hotter and faster is not better.
*Some of the newer yeast packages are optimized for dry pitches, to be sprinkled on top of the wort. It would mention that clearly on the package! I haven't seen or used those, or seen any reports on them, yet.
Rehydrate* the packet of yeast exactly to the manufacturer's instructions (they all have a different method), and pitch in a well aerated (or oxygenated) wort of the correct temperature, for ales typically around 64-68°F, depending on the yeast.
Ferment at the lower side of the yeast's temp range for best results. Some form of fermentation temperature control is recommended. Hotter and faster is not better.
*Some of the newer yeast packages are optimized for dry pitches, to be sprinkled on top of the wort. It would mention that clearly on the package! I haven't seen or used those, or seen any reports on them, yet.
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