Working on a stout recipe

[Hoppy_Sanchez]

Yo! I’ve been working on this stout recipe for a couple weeks. With more time to work on recipes than actually brewing I’ve came up w this.

6 gallon
1.060 OG
33.7 ibu

Thomas Faucet Maris Otter 73%
Roasted barley 5.6%
Crisp Pale Chocolate 5.6%
Weyermann Munich 4.5%
GW C-75 4.5%

northern brewer
60 11.6 ibu
30 13.4 ibu
15 8.4 ibu

Adding whirlofloc and yeast nutes @ 10-15 mins.
Also adding 3/4lb-1lb lactose. Going for a milk stout.
I do plan on adding coffee to the keg. Course grind while the beer carbs then I’ll transfer off the beans. I usually just go w a sprouts coffee blend. Tends to work out just fine for what I’m going for.

Let me know what you think.

cheers!

 

[thehaze]

4.5% Munich will not do much for any beer. If you want Munich to add anything, you need much more of it. So you can simply take it out and use more base malt. I would argue that 5.6 Roasted Barley is way too much, but it depends on the malt. If it's 300L, than it would be OK. I would rather go for something English.

 

[Miraculix]

As a rough guideline, 10% roast/chocolate (combined, not each), and rest base malt gives you a nice stout.

I personally go for roast barley or chocolate spelt or a combination of both as I don't like normal chocolate make, but that's just my own preference.

Add up to ten percent crystal to get some additional flavour, the darkest ones tend to work better here.

Munich works also but not at this rate, go with about 30% or leave it out entirely, replace it with base malt. It is not historically correct, but I could see it work well in a stout.

Btw. My favourite stout yeast is s04.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

If you're new to any beer style, I would keep it fairly simple to start with, so ferment at least some of it without extras like coffee - and in this case you could do worse than just copy the original milk stout :
http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/2010/10/lets-brew-wednesday-1936-mackeson-stout.html

(broadly, replace the roast with brown and the Munich & crystal with invert #3)

 

[Hoppy_Sanchez]

4.5% Munich will not do much for any beer. If you want Munich to add anything, you need much more of it. So you can simply take it out and use more base malt. I would argue that 5.6 Roasted Barley is way too much, but it depends on the malt. If it's 300L, than it would be OK. I would rather go for something English.

I could add more Munich. Possibly up to 7-8%. I believe the roasted barley I have is a higher L than 300. I can call my LHBS and find out. If it is higher L what should I decrease it’s down to?

 

[Hoppy_Sanchez]

As a rough guideline, 10% roast/chocolate (combined, not each), and rest base malt gives you a nice stout.

I personally go for roast barley or chocolate spelt or a combination of both as I don't like normal chocolate make, but that's just my own preference.

Add up to ten percent crystal to get some additional flavour, the darkest ones tend to work better here.

Munich works also but not at this rate, go with about 30% or leave it out entirely, replace it with base malt. It is not historically correct, but I could see it work well in a stout.

Btw. My favourite stout yeast is s04.

I think I’ll do the 10% RB and Pale Chocolate combo. I have more C75 to bump it up. Forgot to add that I’ll be using Darkness from Imperial Yeast.

 

[Pappers_]

Looks good! I don't know Darkness from Imperial Yeast, but I do like Windsor from Danstar in Milk/Sweet Stouts, its got a little lower attentuation than many, potentially giving a slightly sweeter flavor and a fuller body.

Northern Brewer sounds good. Another option would be Challenger or East Kent Goldings - going all English!

 

[kevin58]

Don't overlook brown malt. I was reminded of this on two fronts today before even checking this forum... listening to the newest episode of Brülosophy's podcast and thumbing through the book The Home Brewers Guide To Vintage Beer. The Brülosophy podcast pointed out that brown malt can give you a toasty character and some color without adding highly kilned or heavy roasted grains that could impart too much burnt or acridness. In the book all but two of the recipes from the early 1800's thru the 1920's use brown malt. The percentages are as high as 40+% early on and diminishes to around 10%. My basic stout recipe is pale malt, brown malt, black malt and sometimes crystal 60. I also like to use invert sugar #3 in almost all of my stouts.

 

[Miraculix]

Don't overlook brown malt. I was reminded of this on two fronts today before even checking this forum... listening to the newest episode of Brülosophy's podcast and thumbing through the book The Home Brewers Guide To Vintage Beer. The Brülosophy podcast pointed out that brown malt can give you a toasty character and some color without adding highly kilned or heavy roasted grains that could impart too much burnt or acridness. In the book all but two of the recipes from the early 1800's thru the 1920's use brown malt. The percentages are as high as 40+% early on and diminishes to around 10%. My basic stout recipe is pale malt, brown malt, black malt and sometimes crystal 60. I also like to use invert sugar #3 in almost all of my stouts.

Todays brown malt cannot be compared to the oldschool brown malt. The oldschoolversion was actually self-converting, whereas todays brown malt does not have any enzymatic activity.

 

[Hoppy_Sanchez]

Looks good! I don't know Darkness from Imperial Yeast, but I do like Windsor from Danstar in Milk/Sweet Stouts, its got a little lower attentuation than many, potentially giving a slightly sweeter flavor and a fuller body.

Northern Brewer sounds good. Another option would be Challenger or East Kent Goldings - going all English!

Darkness is equivalent to Irish ale yeast. I’ve used it in the past on a couple stouts. It’s a beast.

I have a lot of northern brewer. A friend filled up a ziploc freezer bag full of it. Idk if I’ll ever use it all up.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Todays brown malt cannot be compared to the oldschool brown malt. The oldschoolversion was actually self-converting, whereas todays brown malt does not have any enzymatic activity.

True, but don't get too carried away with that thinking - most brown malt has certainly been non-diastatic since the late 19th century, and may well have been non-diastatic since around the time that people started using much more pale malt as a tax dodge during the Napoleonic wars. Yes, it was diastatic in the 18th century, but that's over 200 years ago; most recipes using brown malt date from the times when most of it was non-diastatic.

If you're making a milk stout, then the last thing you want is a "beast" of a yeast, at least you don't want high attenuation for this style of beer, it kinda misses the whole point.

 

[kevin58]

Todays brown malt cannot be compared to the oldschool brown malt. The oldschoolversion was actually self-converting, whereas todays brown malt does not have any enzymatic activity.

I made no comparison to "oldschool" brown malt. The recipes in that book are written for modern homebrewers. The Brulosophy podcast certainly wasn't making reference to "oldschool" brown malt. My point was... don't overlook using brown malt. Period.

 

[Hoppy_Sanchez]

Updated and brewed.

1.062

10# Thomas Faucet Maris Otter
1# Crisp Pale Chocolate
8oz Roasted Barley
8oz GW C75
2# Flaked Oats

It’s been a week and at 1.030. Hoping to get around 1.022-1.018

 

[jturman35]

I did just did a RIS based off Old Rasputin Clone I tweaked and it called for a 1lb of brown malt. My next stout I’m going to use Nottingham yeast.

 

[redarmy990]

Brewed a stout this weekend , i had all kinds of problems and a first stuck sparge (i forgot the rice hulls), the recipe i used was from Craft beer and brewing magazine.
I should have been OG 1.058 But because of stuck mash i had to add water to get the boil volume so brought me down to 1.039.
Used s04 yeast after a day and a half im down to 1.016. Is there a way i could add anything to wort to get more alcohol in there.
I am adding maple syrup but that would be at kegging.

 

[ebbelwoi]

Brewed a stout this weekend , i had all kinds of problems and a first stuck sparge (i forgot the rice hulls), the recipe i used was from Craft beer and brewing magazine.
I should have been OG 1.058 But because of stuck mash i had to add water to get the boil volume so brought me down to 1.039.
Used s04 yeast after a day and a half im down to 1.016. Is there a way i could add anything to wort to get more alcohol in there.
I am adding maple syrup but that would be at kegging.

Do you have any DME or LME? That should be easy enough to add.

 

[redarmy990]

I have some DME And also some canned starter wort, not sure if that would work

 

[ebbelwoi]

The starter wort probably has a lower gravity than what you'd want. Go with the DME. Use one of the online calculators to figure out how much DME you need and how much boiled water you need to add it to.