The following is not strictly brewing equipment, but equipment related to and used with brewing. If I've posted to the wrong forum, please move this post to the correct forum.
I have separate tools used on brewing equipment than for general household work. These include screw drivers, wrenches, etc. Maybe an "overkill", but I've used all my regular household tools for many things over the years including working on cars, fixing lawn mowers, working on bicycles, household repair, garage repair, etc... etc... etc... Just doesn't feel right to me using these tools anywhere near by brewing equipment.
Recently I needed a 2.5 mm hex wrench to tighten the coupler between the mill moter and the mill. Used a Kobalt household hex key set I purchased from Lowes a few years ago. Yes, I've used the Kobalt set for bike repairs/tweaks, but I didn't have the metric size needed for the coupler so I used the Kobalt hex key. Never had an issue. Also, never had an issue using the Kobalt hex keys to tighten the crap out of things.
Was recently near a Harbor Freight and, against my better judgement, purchased a set of standard and hex keys.
Used the Harbor Freight 2.5mm hex key for the first time today. Barely turned it in the coupler screw and it snaps off. A piece of the 2.5mm hex key is stuck in the coupler screw. Luckily, the coupler screw is tight and I was able to mill as planned. Nothing similar ever happened with the Kobalt set.
Now, of course, I can't remove the coupler from the shaft as part of the 2.5mm hex key shaft is in the top of the coupler screw.
Harbor Freight, IMO, equals junk, junk, junk. Doesn't matter if there is a 20% off coupon, a 40% off coupon or even a 100% off coupon, Harbor Freight is junk. Harbor Freight items are just inferior quality. Probably Chinese junk.
Now, my second problem. How to remove the bit of 2.5mm hex shaft in the screw of the coupler? I tried to reverse drill the 2.5mm kex key shaft stuck in the coupler screw using the smallest drill bit available. No luck.
I was hoping to be able to turn the 2.5mm hex shaft with needle nose pliers, but the break is flush with the top of the coupler screw.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
I have separate tools used on brewing equipment than for general household work. These include screw drivers, wrenches, etc. Maybe an "overkill", but I've used all my regular household tools for many things over the years including working on cars, fixing lawn mowers, working on bicycles, household repair, garage repair, etc... etc... etc... Just doesn't feel right to me using these tools anywhere near by brewing equipment.
Recently I needed a 2.5 mm hex wrench to tighten the coupler between the mill moter and the mill. Used a Kobalt household hex key set I purchased from Lowes a few years ago. Yes, I've used the Kobalt set for bike repairs/tweaks, but I didn't have the metric size needed for the coupler so I used the Kobalt hex key. Never had an issue. Also, never had an issue using the Kobalt hex keys to tighten the crap out of things.
Was recently near a Harbor Freight and, against my better judgement, purchased a set of standard and hex keys.
Used the Harbor Freight 2.5mm hex key for the first time today. Barely turned it in the coupler screw and it snaps off. A piece of the 2.5mm hex key is stuck in the coupler screw. Luckily, the coupler screw is tight and I was able to mill as planned. Nothing similar ever happened with the Kobalt set.
Now, of course, I can't remove the coupler from the shaft as part of the 2.5mm hex key shaft is in the top of the coupler screw.
Harbor Freight, IMO, equals junk, junk, junk. Doesn't matter if there is a 20% off coupon, a 40% off coupon or even a 100% off coupon, Harbor Freight is junk. Harbor Freight items are just inferior quality. Probably Chinese junk.
Now, my second problem. How to remove the bit of 2.5mm hex shaft in the screw of the coupler? I tried to reverse drill the 2.5mm kex key shaft stuck in the coupler screw using the smallest drill bit available. No luck.
I was hoping to be able to turn the 2.5mm hex shaft with needle nose pliers, but the break is flush with the top of the coupler screw.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
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