Whirlpool 90 degree fitting versus bent tube?

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djonesax

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So I bought a whirlpool tube from bargain fittings for my boil kettle and bought the incorrect 90 degree fitting to go along with it. It seems like it would work just as well with out the tube though using the fitting I bought.

So why would someone pay $20 bucks for the tube versus a $5. I'm seriously asking for education not saying the tube is not the way to go. I plan to mount this about a quarter the way up the keggle.

Thanks,

David

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The bent tube provides a longer tube run after the turn. This smooths out the fluid flow before it enters the BK, so that more of the fluid kinetic energy gets applied to driving the whirlpool, and not just lost to turbulence when entering the kettle. A good fluid dynamics person could probably explain it more rigorously, but I think I covered the gist of it.

Brew on :mug:
 
The way I have mine is, the valve is high up on my kettle, about a few inches from the lip of the kettle. I then have a 90 degree elbow pointing down from the valve and at the other end of the elbow is a compression fitting with a 90 degree bent stainless steel tube. This way i can adjust how far up or down I want the tube and also rotate the tube to get the best whirlpool. If you just install the whirlpool valve in the middle of the wort with just an elbow, you're pretty much stuck at that level.
 
I decided to go ahead and get the correct 90 degree elbow so I can use the tube since a tube seems to be the best practice.

David
 
The way I have mine is, the valve is high up on my kettle, about a few inches from the lip of the kettle. I then have a 90 degree elbow pointing down from the valve and at the other end of the elbow is a compression fitting with a 90 degree bent stainless steel tube. This way i can adjust how far up or down I want the tube and also rotate the tube to get the best whirlpool. If you just install the whirlpool valve in the middle of the wort with just an elbow, you're pretty much stuck at that level.

I guess the question is, why do you care?

As long as its below the lowest level you'd be brewing does it really matter if your whirlpooling 5 gallon batches @ the 4 Gallon mark and 10 gallon batches at the 4 Gallon mark?

I cant think of any reason why it would matter.
 
I guess the question is, why do you care?

As long as its below the lowest level you'd be brewing does it really matter if your whirlpooling 5 gallon batches @ the 4 Gallon mark and 10 gallon batches at the 4 Gallon mark?

I cant think of any reason why it would matter.

I like to be able to adjust the tube if I see it necessary. I like to experiment in getting the most efficient setup. I'll swivel the tube either further away from the wall of the kettle or closer to the wall where it's bouncing the wort off it. You be surprised on the different types of whirlpool effect you get just slightly swiveling the tube in any direction (away from the kettle wall, towards the kettle wall) . Also, I like that the valve for the whirlpool is above the brew line rather submerged, my preference.
 
I have one of the barbed 90 and it's mounted as low as I could get it on the side of the kettle. No complaints.
 
So I brewed with the new whirlpool tube and it did well for chilling but the whirlpool wasnt stong enough create a hop and trub cone at all. I attached a pic of the inside of the kettle and a video of me testing the whirlpool pre-boil. It did better pre-boil than post-boil. I'd say the tube is about at the 4-5 gallon mark and angled down maybe an inch.

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View attachment IMG_3369.MOV
 
My current setup is just the 90 degree elbow, and with the wort getting pumped through the plate chiller, it isnt strong enough either to make an adequate whirlpool. It is strong enough, however, bypassing the plate chiller. My fix for this issue to to attach a 1/2"mpt x 1/4" barb fitting to see if I can up the pressure and get a faster flow.
 
So I brewed with the new whirlpool tube and it did well for chilling but the whirlpool wasnt stong enough create a hop and trub cone at all. I attached a pic of the inside of the kettle and a video of me testing the whirlpool pre-boil. It did better pre-boil than post-boil. I'd say the tube is about at the 4-5 gallon mark and angled down maybe an inch.


Question for you.

Why is your dip tube pointing the direction it is? My gut tells me that you'd want to face it the same direction as your whirlpool tube so that you'd get less trub in the dip tube.

I ask because I am in the process of designing a whirlpool setup for my new BK
 
Try removing the tube and just let it recirc with the elbow in place. Also, point your pickup tube to the opposite side of your kettle, just rotate it.
 
Question for you.

Why is your dip tube pointing the direction it is? My gut tells me that you'd want to face it the same direction as your whirlpool tube so that you'd get less trub in the dip tube.

BK

My thought were purely experimental but I thought it'd be better to not pull from the same side that I am pushing to get a better temperature stratification.
 
Try removing the tube and just let it recirc with the elbow in place. Also, point your pickup tube to the opposite side of your kettle, just rotate it.


I plan to try no tube which was was my original plan but after looking at tons of pictures online and peoples suggestions I went with the tube. Did you see the video I posted? Is that slow, or normal for a whirlpool?

David
 
you could have attached a piece of silicone hose onto the end of the high flow street elbow. Works like a champ...
 
My thought were purely experimental but I thought it'd be better to not pull from the same side that I am pushing to get a better temperature stratification.


Ah! I was thinking of it differently then you have it setup. And I like how you have it setup now that I think about it! At least your out port dip tube. Let me know what you find best for the return tube
 
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