Which Brew Kit?

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mulliganx

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Looking at some decent beer kits, and wanted to ask which would be best for a new brewer.

Going to brew two types of beer at a time, going to be universal on beer types, but mainly concentrating on lagers, pumpkin ales, and other ales.

All around experimenting really. But linked some below that caught my eye, I do not want to purchase mr. beer seems to 'mainstream'.

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brewing-starter-kit-1.html

http://www.monsterbrew.com/Prod_MaestroKit-AutoSiphon.cfm

http://www.homebrewing.org/Beginning-Homebrew-Kit-Upgrade-1-_p_1703.html
 
I would personally go with the midwest kit, but I would ask them if you can swap out the 5 gallon plastic carboy for a 6 gallon so you can use it as a second primary. Their retail price is only 1$ difference between the two sizes.
 
chickypad said:
I would personally go with the midwest kit, but I would ask them if you can swap out the 5 gallon plastic carboy for a 6 gallon so you can use it as a second primary. Their retail price is only 1$ difference between the two sizes.

Agreed, 100%
 
Really like my Williams. For starting out, I couldn't find a better deal on the equipment. I got the kit with the brew pot and wort chiller.
 
+1 Midwest.. Besides brew kettle upgrades and upgrades for all grain I use my Midwest supplies after many many brews
 
Just asking this to learn. but why can you not use a 5 gallon plastic carboy as a second primary? Why do you say to use a 6 gallon?

Is that 1 gallon that much of a difference in the amount you are able to produce?

Thanks
 
mulliganx said:
Just asking this to learn. but why can you not use a 5 gallon plastic carboy as a second primary? Why do you say to use a 6 gallon?

Is that 1 gallon that much of a difference in the amount you are able to produce?

Thanks

A 6 gallon fermenter will allow you to ferment 5 gallons of beer with adequate room for krausen without having to worry about massive blowoff.
 
mulliganx said:
Just asking this to learn. but why can you not use a 5 gallon plastic carboy as a second primary? Why do you say to use a 6 gallon? Is that 1 gallon that much of a difference in the amount you are able to produce? Thanks

I've used a 5 gallon for a secondary.. There's not much going on so you should be fine.. Definitely want a 6 for primary though.. I use a 6.5 and still use a blowoff tube because my krausen gets crazy sometimes.. And that makes me happy!
 
I personally use a 5 gallon glass carboy for secondary. Using a carboy that is as close as possible to your batch size in secondary minimizes surface area exposed to possible oxidation.

Ideally, you shouldn't have any signs of vigorous fermentation in secondary. The bulk of that should have been accomplished in primary fermentation. You shouldn't have to have room for extreme krausen.

A 6.5 gallon is excellent as a primary fermentor, specifically because it does allow for massive krausen during high SG fermentation. You could get away with a 6 as a primary in some cases, but there's no way I'd use it for secondary. There's just to much headspace unless you do a CO2 purge.
 
I'd agree with what chickypad said and a little clarification, "...for a 6 gallon so you can use it as a second primary..."
 
I'd agree with what chickypad said and a little clarification, "...for a 6 gallon so you can use it as a second primary..."

Yes, this is exactly what I meant. You said you want to have more than one beer going at a time OP, so if I were you I'd spend the money on more primary ferementers. Secondary vessels are optional, not necessary for the great majority of beers.
 
I know glass is heavy. I've cursed them more than one time as I hauled them down to the basement. But, a lot of that can be mitigated by using a handle or a brew hauler. What it really boils down to is oxygen infiltration. If you have a standard ale pail with no rubber gasket (like me and most homebrewers who started with a BB kit), than your effective life in a plastic fermentor during primary should be 2-3 weeks maX. co2 wll seep out throught the lid, more if you pop it open every few days. Less CO@ means more oxygen and more oxidizing and off-flavors.

Better bottles and other PET containers are also easier to scratch. Scratches mean organic residues in the scratches. Organic residue caked into these niches mean you run a greater risk of contamination/infection down the line. I had a customer at the LHBS I work at lose 2 20gal fermentors because they were scratched. If you are willing to be extra careful with PET, go ahead. Personally, I like the resilience of glass. All my carboys have a handle on them for safety and easier carrying.

As far as the necessity of secondary fermentation, the vast majority of beers I brew tend to be on the heavier end of the spectrum. Longer fermentation for high gravity usually gives the yeast time to clean up byproducts of fermentation and more complex sugars leftover from primary. I Know some people here on the forum advocate the all-primary approach because of the dangers of contamination, but if you are sanatizing properly that shoudn't be an issue.
 
I know glass is heavy. I've cursed them more than one time as I hauled them down to the basement. But, a lot of that can be mitigated by using a handle or a brew hauler. What it really boils down to is oxygen infiltration. If you have a standard ale pail with no rubber gasket (like me and most homebrewers who started with a BB kit), than your effective life in a plastic fermentor during primary should be 2-3 weeks maX. co2 wll seep out throught the lid, more if you pop it open every few days. Less CO@ means more oxygen and more oxidizing and off-flavors.

Better bottles and other PET containers are also easier to scratch. Scratches mean organic residues in the scratches. Organic residue caked into these niches mean you run a greater risk of contamination/infection down the line. I had a customer at the LHBS I work at lose 2 20gal fermentors because they were scratched. If you are willing to be extra careful with PET, go ahead. Personally, I like the resilience of glass. All my carboys have a handle on them for safety and easier carrying.

As far as the necessity of secondary fermentation, the vast majority of beers I brew tend to be on the heavier end of the spectrum. Longer fermentation for high gravity usually gives the yeast time to clean up byproducts of fermentation and more complex sugars leftover from primary. I Know some people here on the forum advocate the all-primary approach because of the dangers of contamination, but if you are sanatizing properly that shoudn't be an issue.

Nothing to disagree with here. I find PET bottles to require little extra in terms of keeping them scratch free, and that's why I prefer them (though I still use my glass carboys too). Mostly it's about time. If I wash my Better Bottles immediately after racking out of them, I have absolutely no need to use abrasives. I generally go primary only, but I rarely make really huge beers that would really require a secondary. I am not doing primary only because I am afraid of contamination, I'm just wicked lazy. :cross:
 
Nothing to disagree with here. I find PET bottles to require little extra in terms of keeping them scratch free, and that's why I prefer them (though I still use my glass carboys too). Mostly it's about time. If I wash my Better Bottles immediately after racking out of them, I have absolutely no need to use abrasives. I generally go primary only, but I rarely make really huge beers that would really require a secondary. I am not doing primary only because I am afraid of contamination, I'm just wicked lazy. :cross:

Mind if I ask what your usual batch is?
 
Mind if I ask what your usual batch is?

If you're asking about what sorts of beers, we do a lot of sessionable ales, with OGs around 10-12°P. The biggest we do on a regular basis is a Russian Imperial Stout that starts off around 21°P. That gets a secondary and a long keg rest.
 
If you're asking about what sorts of beers, we do a lot of sessionable ales, with OGs around 10-12°P. The biggest we do on a regular basis is a Russian Imperial Stout that starts off around 21°P. That gets a secondary and a long keg rest.

Sounds reasonable to me.
 

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