Where to take temp reading in RIMS setup

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Shred

Former Microbrewery Founder & Pro Brewer
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Hi All,

I've finally got my brew stand assembled and a RIMS tube mounted. I've got this one: Amazon RIMS Tube

In my trial runs I'm getting 3 very different temp readings depending where I take the temp from.

The reading in the thermowell is pretty significantly lower than taking a reading directly off the end of the return tube and slightly diffrent (about 1* C) than the water in the mash tun.

Which should I trust and set my temp controller to?
 
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What are you using to take the temp readings? And what kind of controller are you using?

Is your liquid flowing past the heating element, then over the thermowell? or vice versa?

The thermowell is .31" ID, whats the OD of your temp probe? You may want to use a thermal paste or adhesive to fill the void between the probe and thermowell wall.

While ramping temps up the water coming out of the rims tube should be quite a bit hotter than the water coming in. The water coming in the tube should be pretty close to the temp inside the MLT.

From a safety point of view it's best to put the controller at the output of the rims tube, close to the heating element. That way you know you aren't burning sugars or heating the wort too far past your enzyme's temperature range. You pretty much don't have to worry about overshoot here either. I have found that this method does take a little tweaking to settle in on my mlt setpoint in reasonable time.

On the other hand, putting the controller's temp probe directly in the MLT or on the input of the RIMS tube would work better to control the temperature inside the MLT. But with an off the shelf PID you just don't know what's going on inside the RIMS tube, which may or may not matter in your system. YMMV.
 
you want to take the temperature of the wort leaving the MLT. This reading represents the temperature of the mash, which is the temperature you want to control. Closing the loop with a reading from anywhere else will result in the wrong mash temp at steady-state.

The danger is that this temperature responds slowly to the heat, as you need to cycle a fair amount of volume through the RIMS before the overall temp of the mash starts to react. You need to make sure the P in the PID isn't tuned too aggressively, and you need to recirc as fast as possible without overly compressing the grain bed.
 
Right now I'm using an STC-1000 with it's standard probe in the thermowell which drops in from the top to about where the outlet is located. I jam a piece of paper towel to fill the void at the top of the thermowell, which I'm sure isn't perfect, but I would hope would get me close enough.

I'm going to be replacing the cheap, stock probe with a stainless steel probe in the next few days.

The water is reading slightly hotter than the mash tun from the thermowell but if I put a temp probe directly into the output hose (return line) it reads several degrees higher than in the thermowell.
 
I have never used an stc1000, but since it's not a PID I would think the only place for you to put the probe would be at the RIMS outlet. The RIMS outlet is quick to respond, maybe the stc can control that point without to much overshoot.

At the RIMS outlet you may be able to get away with thermostat control, but you'll need to keep an eye on your system to make adjustments. For example, if your target mash set point is 152, you might need to set the stc to 154.5. Or maybe when you ramping you may want to overshoot 5 degrees or so at the rims output and immediately cut your stc off to coast to target MLT temp when you reach rims output temp. I think you can do it, it will just take some gettin to know your system and practice.
 
you want to take the temperature of the wort leaving the MLT. This reading represents the temperature of the mash, which is the temperature you want to control. Closing the loop with a reading from anywhere else will result in the wrong mash temp at steady-state.

The danger is that this temperature responds slowly to the heat, as you need to cycle a fair amount of volume through the RIMS before the overall temp of the mash starts to react. You need to make sure the P in the PID isn't tuned too aggressively, and you need to recirc as fast as possible without overly compressing the grain bed.
As I mentioned in last weeks thread where this same question was asked I disagree with this herms setup advice when it comes to rims.... The temp readings on a rims should always be taken as close to the element at the exit as possible to give the safest performance and prevent most of the negative possibilities that people attribute to rims setups. if you temp probe was in the MT you are ASKING for scorching issues if you have any flow issues like a stuck sparge. even if you dont your rims will constantly be overshooting and then undershooting temps with the MT causing a large buffer delay possibly denaturing enzymes.

I use a non insulated stainless 16 gallon mashtun and see no more than 1/2-1 degree loss between the rims temp sensor and the anolag thermometer placed at the MT exit for reference. I brew in a bedroom with no heat and an open window in the winter... temps are usually around 60-65F
 
Right now I'm using an STC-1000 with it's standard probe in the thermowell which drops in from the top to about where the outlet is located. I jam a piece of paper towel to fill the void at the top of the thermowell, which I'm sure isn't perfect, but I would hope would get me close enough.

I'm going to be replacing the cheap, stock probe with a stainless steel probe in the next few days.

The water is reading slightly hotter than the mash tun from the thermowell but if I put a temp probe directly into the output hose (return line) it reads several degrees higher than in the thermowell.
An stc 1000 switches too slow to accuratly maintain a single temp... my rims has to turn on and off multple times a second via an ssr to do this safely and reliably. an stc 1000 uses a 10a relay and programming that does not allow for such fast response since it would quickly burn up the relay.... I know there is custom firmware you can use with a modified stc that might work but what for? a Rex c100 PID with ssr and temp probe costs about $23 shipped and will work much better....I started with that very same combo.
 
I have never used an stc1000, but since it's not a PID

That kinda depends... Has it been flashed?
flashing21.gif


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f253/stc-1000-pi-mash-control-firmware-487104/
 

true.... but unless you modify it further and remove the relay to wire up an ssr its still limited and even then its a lot more work and a waste of a perfectly good candidate for stc1000+ fermenter control software vs just buying something like thi which does the job right out of the box with no mods needed for less money...

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...SR-Heat-Sink-2m-K-probe/209587_679049496.html

Its just not practical unless you got the stc1000 for free....
 
Electric RIMS systems should use a PID and the probe should be on the RIMS output. It's already been mentioned but I'll echo the logic anyway. The temp coming out of the mashtun will be relatively constant at least in periods of 20-30 seconds. If you're at 152 and just set the controller to 168F for mashout, your element will essentially be turned on full output until the whole mash hits about 166F at which time the PID will likely be pulsing. This won't be for 10 minutes. IF you happen to have great flow rate AND you've sized the element to lower power like 1000 watts, the output temps may only be a few degrees higher than the target temp. If you've sized the element for faster ramps or if your flow rate slows for some reason, you can easily be boiling the wort in the RIMS.

That's why we designed our hardware with the probe install location right at the end of the tube. You could also put it in the plumbing line between the RIMS and the mash return but that won't help if your flow stops.


PS: To the OP, unfortunately you've supported a known fraud and thief by buying that unit on Amazon. I know you didn't know, but I've vowed to speak up anytime I see reference posted so that people know what's going on.
 
Thanks for the input, everyone. It sounds like upgrading my controller is the way to go.
 
true.... but unless you modify it further and remove the relay to wire up an ssr its still limited and even then its a lot more work and a waste of a perfectly good candidate for stc1000+ fermenter control software vs just buying something like thi which does the job right out of the box with no mods needed for less money...

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...SR-Heat-Sink-2m-K-probe/209587_679049496.html

Its just not practical unless you got the stc1000 for free....

Not to argue with you - because we agree most of the time... But the STC-1000 PI Mash Edition - I believe, I have no experience with it - can be programmed to do a step mash, where as the current batch of PID's, except one insanely expensive Auber that I'm aware of, cannot be programmed to change its temperature over time. (I only have experience with the STC-100+ software that Alphaomega programmed)

The RKC link that you shared is for "Reverse PID Action", I believe for cooling - not for heating.

I just bought two more version 1 STC-1000 units - which are flashable - for $15.30 ea

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261660479398?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

:mug:
 
Not to argue with you - because we agree most of the time... But the STC-1000 PI Mash Edition - I believe, I have no experience with it - can be programmed to do a step mash, where as the current batch of PID's, except one insanely expensive Auber that I'm aware of, cannot be programmed to change its temperature over time. (I only have experience with the STC-100+ software that Alphaomega programmed)

The RKC link that you shared is for "Reverse PID Action", I believe for cooling - not for heating.

I just bought two more version 1 STC-1000 units - which are flashable - for $15.30 ea

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261660479398?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

:mug:
ok your comparing apples to oranges here...The people (or person) posting in this thread does not have the custom firmware, he is just trying to use a simple stock stc1000 as a pid to control a rims. If he cose to go that route, he would need $15 in additional hardware like the arduino to flash it.....and thats if you assume has a soldering gun and knows how to remove the relay.... ?
Still you have a very valid point and I get where you are coming from. If you invest in the extra stainless version of the sensor and all the tools needed to customize the stc you have a custom stc that almost does everything as the $75 auber step mash unit... This would be beneficial to some and more work/cost than its worth to others. it all depends on what that person has already and their skill level...

then we have the famous "support" issue where the some people want no questions asked support and replacement policy which apparently auber offers from all the comments I always see...

alphaomega wrote both custom hack software versions and I also flashed and use a few stc-1000+ stcs...
 
ok your comparing apples to oranges here...The people (or person) posting in this thread does not have the custom firmware, he is just trying to use a simple stock stc1000 as a pid to control a rims. If he cose to go that route, he would need $15 in additional hardware like the arduino to flash it.....and thats if you assume has a soldering gun and knows how to remove the relay.... ?
Still you have a very valid point and I get where you are coming from. If you invest in the extra stainless version of the sensor and all the tools needed to customize the stc you have a custom stc that almost does everything as the $75 auber step mash unit... This would be beneficial to some and more work/cost than its worth to others. it all depends on what that person has already and their skill level...

then we have the famous "support" issue where the some people want no questions asked support and replacement policy which apparently auber offers from all the comments I always see...

alphaomega wrote both custom hack software versions and I also flashed and use a few stc-1000+ stcs...

Not sure I was comparing anything! :D

He said he was controlling a RIMS with a STC1000 - someone said it isnt a PID - which I replied "It could be if it was flashed".

But I digress - I am not going to argue.

Cheers! :tank:

BTW - Thanks for the ebay links for cheaper RTC's, SSR's, PID's, etc... I still think there should be a sticky in the electrical forum with those links. I bought the PID and SSR - good stuff.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming...
 
Not sure I was comparing anything! :D

He said he was controlling a RIMS with a STC1000 - someone said it isnt a PID - which I replied "It could be if it was flashed".

But I digress - I am not going to argue.

Cheers! :tank:

BTW - Thanks for the ebay links for cheaper RTC's, SSR's, PID's, etc... I still think there should be a sticky in the electrical forum with those links. I bought the PID and SSR - good stuff.

Back to your regularly scheduled programming...

fair enough :mug: (I dont believe anyone sells the pid versions of the stc and the buyer has to do the work to modify himself and thats were the advantages are lost for some, thats all im trying to say)
BTW I did add most of those links to my build thread below...

OP are you using an stc1000 or a modified stc1000?
 
Not gonna be doing any flashing/modifications here. I've been researching DIY full controller builds. Does anyone here have a link to a good 2 pump (single tier), 1 RIMS controller build?

Ideally, I'd like to have a dial control for each of the pumps to throttle them back rather than using ball valves to control flow. I'll be calling Chugger to see if that will be harmful to the pumps.
 
Not gonna be doing any flashing/modifications here. I've been researching DIY full controller builds. Does anyone here have a link to a good 2 pump (single tier), 1 RIMS controller build?

Ideally, I'd like to have a dial control for each of the pumps to throttle them back rather than using ball valves to control flow. I'll be calling Chugger to see if that will be harmful to the pumps.
you can find something similar on ebay from Brumatic, although I dont think he builds them for DC pumps with pwm speed control.

Im building one now which includes two 12v food grade PPS pumps and speed controlled control built into the panel for them as well as manual control for a boil kettle element and pid controlled heat for a HLT or Rims setup+ alarm.. I got it on craigslist locally where I live for $500. and it comes with the rtd temp probes as well as the pumps. The Idea was I would try to show whomever bought it how to set it up and operate it.. I dont plan on making these and selling them I just had a lot of parts left over and was experimenting with stuff. I do have someone who is interested and coming over next week to check out my electric setup to see if he wants to take the plunge... He have an expensive propane sabco system now which is too much for him.
 
His controls are nice looking, but they're outside the budget. If I go DIY, I think I can get the whole build done for about $150.
 
His controls are nice looking, but they're outside the budget. If I go DIY, I think I can get the whole build done for about $150.

check out the DIY build in my signature... it has links and costs for the components.... I built my more complicated setup for under $300 so $150 would be easy for what you ask... as far as the control panel... The pumps are $20 a piece on ebay or amazon and you can easily build a copper rims tube with a cartridge heater like I used for around $50-60 it can be a lot of work to assemble though... I forgot how much work until I started the one I'm building now. plus I wnat to make sure everything is done right since I'll be selling it.
 
I'll check it out tonight. Thanks! I actually already have the rims tube and 2 chugger pumps. Just need the control panel.
 
Back to the original topic, which is better, controlling the process by using the MT outlet temp or the HX tube temp ? Or both ?

So if you use the MT outlet temp, you are actually measuring the temp of the bed, which is actually what matters. That is where the enzyme reactions occur and that is where the temp needs to be "right". The time constant for controlling the bed temp will be very long.

If you use the HX (RIMS or HERMS) exit temp and control there, the mash liquid going back into the bed will be the "right" temp, but bed temp changes are going to take forever because you are relying on a very small delta T to warm the bed. Ie if the HX exit temp is 154F and you are doing a step mash from 144F, there is only 10F difference between the returning liquid and the bed itself. It will take forever to get the bed, where the actual reaction is occurring, up to temp. The time constant for controlling the HX outlet temp will be pretty short.

Then there is the issue of scorching with the RIMS system. If you measure and control at HX exit, the controller is going to put the element on full and scorching may result.

Then there is the issue of denaturing the enzymes. I tried to get at this point with this thread, but it never really got there.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/why-doesnt-mash-heating-denature-amylase-enzymes-518680/

Basically, what is the max temp that the mash liquid could be out of the HX such that it wouldn't be denatured ? I don't think denaturing happens instantaneously. I think its a time at various temperatures thing. At a decent recirculation rate, wort doesn't spend much time in the HX. Is it OK if it touches 160F ? 170F ? 180F ? Assuming of course that scorching isn't an issue.

HERMS has its own issue in that the HX water temp needs to be controlled as well. If you set it at the desired mash temp, a) the mash will be lower than the HX water and b) temperature changes are going to be SLOW. Fine for helping a mash keep its temp, but terrible for step changes. And if you set the HX water temp much higher than the step setpoint temp, the mash temp will keep rising after the setpoint is reached, unless you want to stop recirculation !

I think the best setup would be to control by the bed temp at the exit of the MLT, but have a secondary control loop that keeps the HX exit temp within bounds, to prevent denaturing. Unfortunately, none of the simple PID controllers control based on 2 variables, but one could serial chain the output of 2 controllers to achieve the same effect. It wouldn't be optimal, but it would work.
 
Hmm... interesting. It would be ideal if that dual-control scenario was easily applied to my setup. Turn on element if mash outlet < target temp AND RIMS outlet < XXX degrees (165F for argument's sake).

In my first run my target temp was 148F. I ran the RIMS setup until that temp was reached (stirring throughout) then killed all the electronics and lidded the cooler. I did no additional mash steps, just a fly sparge at the end.

The hottest reading I got was the return into the mash tun which was around 156-160F. That was interesting because it was significantly higher than the reading I got in the thermowell which is meant to read just above the element, at the outlet of the rims tube. From what I'm gathering, a PID device would help remove some of that mystery by calculating that continued heat rise occurring between the element and the top of the mash.

That said, I'd like to be able to safely step up mash temps and/or leave the RIMS system running for the entire mash... not that the cooler loses that much heat, but why not take that little bit of extra control.

I guess I'm still kind of at a loss as to where to take my reading from.
 
I guess I'm still kind of at a loss as to where to take my reading from.

I think the discussion above about RIMS scorching wort if the element is on 100% is valid. I think you also want to measure and control based on mash temp. So you need to measure and control in 2 places.

The 1st PID should be in PWM mode and measure/control the temp of the wort as it leaves the RIMS chamber. Set it for whatever temp you think won't denature your enzymes. I suggest 160F would work if the recirculation speed through the chamber is fast.

The 2nd PID should be set in relay on/off mode and measure/control the bed temp. Set it to the desired mash temp you want.

Wire the 2 PIDs in series by taking the + PWM output of the RIMS PID and putting into one of the relay terminals on the mash PID, then take the other relay terminal to the SSR, then the other SSR back to the power supply (24V ?) then the other lead into the RIMS PID PWM input.

In this scenario, the RIMS PID will try to keep the output temp of the RIMS chamber at its set point. But it only powers the SSR if the mash PID says the mash still needs heat. This way the mash PID can stay on for a long time, ie the time it takes to step to the next temperature, without any worry about overheating or scorching the mash liquids coming out of the RIMS chamber.

I've thought about this issue/solution for a long time. This is the first time I've ever seen it discussed on a forum.

The other thing I think the RIMS need is a flow sensor that shuts off the element if the flow is interrupted. Nobody seems to do that either.
 
The other thing I think the RIMS need is a flow sensor that shuts off the element if the flow is interrupted. Nobody seems to do that either.

I found a build last night that had the pump in series with the RIMS PID. It wasn't specifically measuring flow, but the RIMS wouldn't turn on if the pump was off.
 
I found a build last night that had the pump in series with the RIMS PID. It wasn't specifically measuring flow, but the RIMS wouldn't turn on if the pump was off.

That is a step in the right direction, but it still doesn't stop a scorch if a hose kinks, a valve gets shut or the bed compacts.
 
Back to the original topic, which is better, controlling the process by using the MT outlet temp or the HX tube temp ? Or both ?

So if you use the MT outlet temp, you are actually measuring the temp of the bed, which is actually what matters. That is where the enzyme reactions occur and that is where the temp needs to be "right".

Not really true. Starch, sugar, and all the enzymes are floating around everywhere in the mash and are not limited to what's touching thick grain particles. The pre-wort or wort flowing through the RIMS is also "mash"

Then there is the issue of scorching with the RIMS system. If you measure and control at HX exit, the controller is going to put the element on full and scorching may result.
I think you have this backwards. If you measure at MLT exit, the controller will put the element on full.

Then there is the issue of denaturing the enzymes.

Basically, what is the max temp that the mash liquid could be out of the HX such that it wouldn't be denatured ? I don't think denaturing happens instantaneously. I think its a time at various temperatures thing. At a decent recirculation rate, wort doesn't spend much time in the HX. Is it OK if it touches 160F ? 170F ? 180F ? Assuming of course that scorching isn't an issue.

Denaturing happens faster the higher the temp is but it does still take time. The rule of thumb says that 10 minutes at 170 will get most of that done. Even if the whole mash got turned over twice during a ramp, it would only spend a couple seconds at the elevated temps. I think I'd want to keep the hex output under 180F.

I think the best setup would be to control by the bed temp at the exit of the MLT, but have a secondary control loop that keeps the HX exit temp within bounds, to prevent denaturing. Unfortunately, none of the simple PID controllers control based on 2 variables, but one could serial chain the output of 2 controllers to achieve the same effect. It wouldn't be optimal, but it would work.

Kal's HERMS based system is pretty close in that a second PID is used as a "dumb" Mash Temp display but it doesn't control anything. You could attach that to a serial wired SSR to achieve that effect.
 
I think the discussion above about RIMS scorching wort if the element is on 100% is valid. I think you also want to measure and control based on mash temp. So you need to measure and control in 2 places.

The 1st PID should be in PWM mode and measure/control the temp of the wort as it leaves the RIMS chamber. Set it for whatever temp you think won't denature your enzymes. I suggest 160F would work if the recirculation speed through the chamber is fast.

The 2nd PID should be set in relay on/off mode and measure/control the bed temp. Set it to the desired mash temp you want.

Wire the 2 PIDs in series by taking the + PWM output of the RIMS PID and putting into one of the relay terminals on the mash PID, then take the other relay terminal to the SSR, then the other SSR back to the power supply (24V ?) then the other lead into the RIMS PID PWM input.

In this scenario, the RIMS PID will try to keep the output temp of the RIMS chamber at its set point. But it only powers the SSR if the mash PID says the mash still needs heat. This way the mash PID can stay on for a long time, ie the time it takes to step to the next temperature, without any worry about overheating or scorching the mash liquids coming out of the RIMS chamber.

I've thought about this issue/solution for a long time. This is the first time I've ever seen it discussed on a forum.

The other thing I think the RIMS need is a flow sensor that shuts off the element if the flow is interrupted. Nobody seems to do that either.

Watch the terminology though. PWM mode on a PID is typically manual mode that does not care about the sensor's temp. I know you're trying to differentiate between on/off mode and the intelligent mode but I think that would be called "PID control mode" at least that's what Auber calls it.

Your method of using a relay style controller as an on/off gatekeeper for the "PID Mode" unit's control signal would work fine and this coarser control would be the one triggered off the MLT output (or a deep probe in the middle of the mash) since it is the slower changing process temp. The other way would be to use a pair of SSRs or a dual channel SSR in series where you can use two identical PIDs.

The need for a flow sensor is greatly diminished by having the RIMS temp probe physically inside the heating element chamber because the volume of wort inside (especially when static) will rise over the setpoint pretty quickly and shut the element off.
 
I dont see what the problem is here?
I have my temp probe for my rims pid at the exit end of my rims tube and it keeps consistent mash temps all through my mash time within 2 degrees variance at the most. Once it has had about 10 minutes to stabilize the temps are consistent throughout the whole mash...(unless I ramp them up)
From this experience I would say something else is amiss if this setup isnt working for someone and that person should correct the real problem and not move the temp probe around in hopes that it will compensate for whatever is really wrong....

Whats the flow rate through the rims tube? I find that 1.5 gallons -2 gallons a minute works great for me.

If it aint broke dont fix it...
 
The need for a flow sensor is greatly diminished by having the RIMS temp probe physically inside the heating element chamber because the volume of wort inside (especially when static) will rise over the setpoint pretty quickly and shut the element off.
I doubt it. I suspect the wort touching the element would scorch long before the heat traveled to the sensor.
 
The need for a flow sensor is greatly diminished by having the RIMS temp probe physically inside the heating element chamber because the volume of wort inside (especially when static) will rise over the setpoint pretty quickly and shut the element off.

I thought this too but I had scorching issues when I forgot to turn on the pump or turned it off without killing the rims heat.... Now that I have spent the $20 total investment on the flow sensor and wiring components I have peace of mind that this will not happen again.
 
In case it isn't totally obvious, I'm no electronic engineer. I understand the concepts being discussed and the practical application, but when it comes to the actually design and wiring, I'll probably be doing a lot of reading.

I have a couple questions if you more knowledgeable/experienced folks don't mind helping out...

I like the idea of a second PID as a sort of "fail safe" at the hottest point (for me based on my whole 1 run, that's the return into the mash tun AFTER the outlet on the RIMS, for whatever reason).

With that in mind, what type of relay should I put between the PIDs and would it be the same relay used to tell the element to turn off if the pump is off? I guess I'm basically asking for a simple parts list.
 
I should probably mention, I'm running at 120V (1650W element), 15A with an external GFCI mounted to my brew stand.
 
In case it isn't totally obvious, I'm no electronic engineer. I understand the concepts being discussed and the practical application, but when it comes to the actually design and wiring, I'll probably be doing a lot of reading.

I have a couple questions if you more knowledgeable/experienced folks don't mind helping out...

I like the idea of a second PID as a sort of "fail safe" at the hottest point (for me based on my whole 1 run, that's the return into the mash tun AFTER the outlet on the RIMS, for whatever reason).

With that in mind, what type of relay should I put between the PIDs and would it be the same relay used to tell the element to turn off if the pump is off? I guess I'm basically asking for a simple parts list.

I'm not building one of these, but I'll help you if nobody else does.

You don't need a relay. You need 2 PID controllers, one with at least a relay output and one with the fancy SSR PWM output.

Parts list

- 2 PID Controllers, with temp sensors
- 1 SSR
- 1 heating element.
- misc hardware, wire, crimp on ends, etc.

My PID controllers are JLD612s, which are an Auber knock off. Not sure if the terminal numbering is the same as the Aubers or not.
 
I'm not building one of these, but I'll help you if nobody else does.

You don't need a relay. You need 2 PID controllers, one with at least a relay output and one with the fancy SSR PWM output.

Parts list

- 2 PID Controllers, with temp sensors
- 1 SSR
- 1 heating element.
- misc hardware, wire, crimp on ends, etc.

My PID controllers are JLD612s, which are an Auburn knock off. Not sure if the terminal numbering is the same as the Auburns or not.

I really appreciate it. I've got the RIMs tube with element already, stand built, 2 pumps and plenty of tubing... My current control unit is STC-1000 based, which is obviously not appropriate.

Can you clarify for me what SSR is? I've had a hard time finding a literal definition and a lot of the PID controllers I've looked at seem to incorporate SSR somehow.
 
I dont see what the problem is here?
I have my temp probe for my rims pid at the exit end of my rims tube and it keeps consistent mash temps all through my mash time within 2 degrees variance at the most. Once it has had about 10 minutes to stabilize the temps are consistent throughout the whole mash...(unless I ramp them up)
From this experience I would say something else is amiss if this setup isnt working for someone and that person should correct the real problem and not move the temp probe around in hopes that it will compensate for whatever is really wrong....

Whats the flow rate through the rims tube? I find that 1.5 gallons -2 gallons a minute works great for me.

If it aint broke dont fix it...

All things equal, the rate of temp change is way higher if you heat the returning mash liquid higher than the set point for the MLT. Lets say you are doing a step from 144F to 154F, ie the new setpoint of the MLT sensor = 154F. If you set the RIM chamber output setpoint to be 156F it will take a lot longer to reach than if you set the RIM chamber output setpoint to be 165 or 170F.

All things being equal, the heat transfer from the RIMS element to the MLT is proportional to temp difference between the mash liquid and the MLT. As the MLT approaches the mash liquid temp, the rate goes to zero, in fact.

By keeping the RIM chamber setpoint quite a bit higher than the MLT setpoint, mash steps will be much, much faster. Its also way easier to control the MLT temp when the heat input is faster.

The reason this matters is when you are doing mash steps you don't want the temp to dwell too long at the lower temps or you'll get a thin, highly fermentable wort. You want the steps to be fast and crisp, especially if you are trying to generate a maltier, complex wort.
 
I really appreciate it. I've got the RIMs tube with element already, stand built, 2 pumps and plenty of tubing... My current control unit is STC-1000 based, which is obviously not appropriate.

Can you clarify for me what SSR is? I've had a hard time finding a literal definition and a lot of the PID controllers I've looked at seem to incorporate SSR somehow.

SSR = solid state relay. You'll need one that handles at least 15 amps. And probably a heat sink for it.

I'm happy to help, but it isn't optimal doing this over the Internet if you don't have a bit of experience. Do you have any electrical nerd friends to look over your shoulder ?

Here is the manual for a JLD612.
http://mythopoeic.org/misc-files/JLD612_Manual.pdf
 
I'm pretty handy, but this is a touch past my previous experience. I have a friend who will be helping as well. He's a "handyman-type".... I know this sounds like an accident waiting to happen, but we're pretty thorough and don't leave anything to question.

The PID should have the SSR built in or is this a component? As far as I can tell from the PIDs I've been shopping, they seem to be part of the unit... heat sink, fan and 15 amp minimum understood.
 
The idea of cascading PID's for for the offset of temperatures between RIMS output and Mash temperature is mentioned in several threads on this site. A more "conventional" approach is to have second PID's output be the setpoint to the first PID. This method is used widely in process industry to control temperature in a vessel with a heating jacket and many other scenarios.

I am in the middle of creating a PLC based cascaded PID setup based on the Allen Bradley Micro 800 series controller. It has a IPID function and an auto tune function. It's not as advanced as the PIDE function in RSLogix5000 but I think with a little glue logic I will be able to solve bumpless transfers and "ramped clamps" for the step mashing process.

Is it necessary ? Probably not but the cost at this time to add another PID is just programming time. I will post my project as it progresses. I find this site to be a wealth of information and an inspiration to up my game. I hope to return some help to others
 
A more "conventional" approach is to have second PID's output be the setpoint to the first PID. This method is used widely in process industry to control temperature in a vessel with a heating jacket and many other scenarios.

Please explain, especially how you do this with 2 sub $50 PID controllers.

PLCs are great, but we are trying to use the KISS method here.
 
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