What is wrong with my keezer?

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caughtablaze

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I have a 7cuFt freezer with a 2x10collar on top and 3 shanks, waiting on a fourth.

I have a 5lb tank with double gauge regulator that sits outside my keezer and is lined in through the back to a triple distributor (http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=52).

I have a couple of problems with my keezer and they are listed in no order of importance. Im really just trying to get this running smoothly altogether.

First of all: I have three beers connected right now but only one thats carbed fully, they all were the set and wait method and all have been there for more than a month. However, the one that is carbed correctly is the first, or the one that is closest to the gas in on the distributor. The carbonation then gets worse from the second beer to the third beer. Is it possible that the first or second kegs is 'stealing' all the CO2 from the third?

Second, I have my analog johnson temp probe in the far side from the hump, all the way at the bottom, but not touching anything and it is set to 38. Somehow though, A ring of ice has developed around the far side of the keezer about 2in from the bottom. Im assuming that the melting of this ice has also produced the puddle that now exists in the bottom of the keezer. Any reasons why the ice is there if the freezer isnt actually freezing?

Third, I have a fan to increase airflow, but quite often the temperature is about 50 degrees at the top of the keezer. Should I insulate the collar? Any other ideas that would help? I cant tell if much cold air is getting out the top or if it isnt sealing correctly.

Thanks for any helps.:mug:
 
1. Unlikely. the volume of gas is too low.
2. The refrigerant is much colder than freezing, so you get ice over the evaporator.
3. I like insulation myself.

Where is the fan and how is it directed? It would work best on the hump and blowing air around the keezer.
 
Yeah I'm probably gonna make a new nicer looking collar so I'll go ahead and pull the trigger on that and insulte it really well. The fan right now is between two cornies blowing the air up, I'll move it to above the hump and see if that helps. It's a 6in desk fan so it should be plenty powerful of that's what you were getting at... What do you think about the puddle inthe bottom of the keezer? Any possible reasons behind that that I havent thought of or ways to eliminate it? Also what about corny #3 not being carbed? Thanks again
 
1) Are the regulators hooked up properly? There is a high(primary) side and a low(secondary) side on the regulators. If they are all ganged to the high side then they all have the same primary pressure regardless of what the secondary gauges read and will supply a maximum of whatever primary pressure you have set. This is the same with seperate regulators or a common manifold.
2) +1 David
3) Where does the fan draw its power from? if its drawing from the keezer then its only on when the compressor is running. Try pointing the fan at an angle downward and giving it its own power supply so its never off. This will keep the air flowing and prevent stratification so your keezer maintains a constant temp. Insulation is nice but not necessary as long as the air is moving past both the kegs and the probe.

edit: just checked out the link. Its possible but Not likely that the check valve springs are not calibrated exactly. This would cause the weakest checkvalve to maintain the highest carbonation.
 
Damp Rid for the water. You're going to have condensation, that's normal.

As for the 3rd keg not carbing, are you getting pressure into the keg? Unless something's clogged, it doesn't make sense.
 
On second thought, have you checked the temps of the kegs? If for some reason the 2nd and 3rd keg are at a higher temp, they won't carb at the pressures you're giving them.
 
Good points beerthirty I'll check them out. All the kegs have been in long enough to where they shouldn't be higher temps than the first. Also I have damprid n my keezer but it's not just condensation at the bottom, it's literally a puddle. More water than I think there should be.

How would one go about checking the calibration of the chck valve springs as a last resort? Thanks guys
 
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