MikeRobrew
Active Member
I have read about steps to do during flameout. I'm guessing that it is after the boil when you turn the flame off. Couldn't find the answer searching. Is that right?
How long does a flameout take?
This is what recipe says... Boil for 60 minutes. Lid on at flameout with 0 minute hops, start chilling immediately.
Cool wort to 66F (19 C) and aerate well. Ferment at 66-68F until complete.
cheers
Isn't whirlfpool and flameout the same thing?
So they are not the same... So flameout is right after when you turn off the heat you throw in your hops and whirlpools is after you chill down to 170F and then you throw in the Hops and circulate.??
What about knockout? Same as flame-out?
Knockout is a term that is used (misused?) a few ways. IMO, it correctly means the transfer of wort to the fermenter.
how does Whirlpool work you circulate the Wort and you throw in the Hops?
I saw on Morebeer they now sell a whirlpool arm to attach to the recirculation pump. I haven't bought that yet, but just run the pump while cooling. They seem to collect on the bottom screen, probably due to the pump pulling them down. Not much seems to end up in the carboy. A whirlpool is suppose to make the hops collect in the center.Well I use a robobrew and I transfer once from robobrew into a Carboy for fermentation... how does Whirlpool work you circulate the Wort and you throw in the Hops?
I use the arm that came with the robobrew I used it to Mash and chilling my Wort down to 18c... Takes about 10 mins a 5 Gal batch..I saw on Morebeer they now sell a whirlpool arm to attach to the recirculation pump. I haven't bought that yet, but just run the pump while cooling. They seem to collect on the bottom screen, probably due to the pump pulling them down. Not much seems to end up in the carboy. A whirlpool is suppose to make the hops collect in the center.
I was planning on doing citra at 170F and circulate of 10 to 15 mins... And then bring it down to 120F and circulate the mosaic for the same time..That's the idea. After whirlpooling for the desired amout of time, you chill the wort (or continue chilling the wort) before transferring to the fermenter.
Right. So do I. Whirlpool is something different. At least in theory.I use the arm that came with the robobrew I used it to Mash and chilling my Wort down to 18c... Takes about 10 mins a 5 Gal batch..
Why not? I do kinda like this method instead of dry hopping. Seems to not end up in the keg as much.I was planning on doing citra at 170F and circulate of 10 to 15 mins... And then bring it down to 120F and circulate the mosaic for the same time..
How long does a flameout take?
This is what recipe says... Boil for 60 minutes. Lid on at flameout with 0 minute hops, start chilling immediately.
Cool wort to 66F (19 C) and aerate well. Ferment at 66-68F until complete.
cheers
If you add lid right at flameout won't that cause DMS or is it in small enough amount that it won't affect the beer?
As for the lid don't put it on the boil kettle DMS precursors are still escaping.
Thanks for that info it moved me to do a quick search and I found this article. Check it out and let us know what you think.DMS's precursor (SMM) is very stable (non-volatile) and doesn't escape, at least not much (if any). It can still convert to DMS during cooling. And when it does, if the wort is still, a lot of the DMS will not escape (even with no lid). That's why it's important to convert as much SMM to DMS much as possible during the boil, which efficiently allows to resulting DMS to escape.
Thanks for that info it moved me to do a quick search and I found this article. Check it out and let us know what you think.
http://scottjanish.com/how-to-prevent-dms-in-beer/
Thanks for the link. Some great info there.Thanks for that info it moved me to do a quick search and I found this article. Check it out and let us know what you think.
http://scottjanish.com/how-to-prevent-dms-in-beer/
I'll have to read that part again. I thought he was referring to a vigorous boil which foams. The thick dirty white ( egg white) just before the boil l always remove that. It results in less boil overs especially when hops are added.Thanks for the link. Some great info there.
I was partically surprised about the foam during boil and how leaving it helped get rid of more DMS.
You'd need to recirculate that Mosaic for a much longer time at 120F to get decent extraction, me thinks.I was planning on doing citra at 170F and circulate of 10 to 15 mins... And then bring it down to 120F and circulate the mosaic for the same time..
So you're saying I should throw in the citca at 170F circulate for 10 to 15 mins.. And then the mosaic for 30 mins at 150F?..You'd need to recirculate that Mosaic for a much longer time at 120F to get decent extraction, me thinks.
After a 10' whirlpool at 170F I add a second whirlpool dosage for 30' at 150F. I think at that point diminishing returns may start to kick in.
It's then chilled to pitching temps.
It takes less than 5' to get to 100-120F, but another 20-30' before it reaches 66-70F, using ice in a pre-chiller.
No, I'm not saying you should do that. It's what I do for my NEIPAs, and most IPAs now.So you're saying I should throw in the citca at 170F circulate for 10 to 15 mins.. And then the mosaic for 30 mins at 150F?..
Well Sir... I'm talking about a IPA as wellNo, I'm not saying you should do that. It's what I do for my NEIPAs, and most IPAs now.
I have thought about dropping the 2nd whirlpool perhaps to 140F for 30-45 minutes, in an effort to keep more flavor and aroma.
Bittering reactions (Alpha Acid isomerization) drop off at lower temps. So at lower temps (below boiling) you keep more flavor and aroma from the extracted (steeped) hop oils, in lieu of bittering. It's just not exactly clear (at least to me) how long hop oil extraction takes at certain temps and perhaps the amount of agitation. Or is it known?
Mind, I'm not talking about hop utilization here, that's a measure (a percentage) of the amount of bittering potential that's achieved at a certain point.
Enter your email address to join: