What equipment should I get, dazed and confused.

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JerryMc

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Planning to brew Hazy IPA something like Justice Juice the local brewery has on tap. This what I most like to drink so what should I buy to do this? Currently in anticipation of brewing I'm building a 4 keg 5 gallons each keezer. I have no other equipment yet. Would like to build a small footprint but have no idea what I'm doing. I've been reading many posts trying to decipher the brewing process and am more lost than when I started if that's possible. I don't want to go too cheap and end up dissatisfied and have to start over. I'd rather spend a little more up front and be happy about it later. Suggestions welcome.

Jerry
 
As Brewers we do 2 things, we make wort and we clean equipment. And as a distant third we help the yeast make beer. Hazy IPA is a difficult style to do well especially for new brewers. I'd suggest learning the rudiments of brewing with other simpler styles such as pale ale, stouts, brown ale, etc. Maybe get a few extract kits under your belt with equipment that you have on hand and then figure out what you really want to do and what you need to do it. All you need to do extract kits is a 3 Gallon stock pot, a bucket to ferment in, an air lock, and a few other small do dads. If you have a friend that brews, have out with them and learn the process.

You can literally spend as much as you want on this obsession that we all call a hobby. My advice is start as simple as you can, brew a half dozen batches on stuff you invest very little on, decide if the hobby is for you, and through that process figure out what works for you and how you want to brew, then buy the equipment that suits your style.

Good luck and welcome to the obsession.

Cheers!
 
Hazy IPA is a difficult style to do well especially for new brewers.
I’ll agree with this! I’ve been brewing for nearly twenty years and was intimidated as hell when I brewed my first NEIPA half a year ago. Your process has to be nearly flawless (especially for dry hopping and packaging) to ensure the beer has the best shelf life possible. A lot of folks will say “brew what you want to drink” no matter what. I would also suggest to brew a few kits and/or proven recipes of a less complex beer for your first few tries.
As far as equipment, there are 100’s of possible responses. I brewed extract batches for many years before switching to single vessel no sparge BIAB a few years ago. I wish I had done it long before that. It requires fairly minimal equipment and is really simple. Read through this thread to get an idea of the process. Really all you need is a large kettle (13-15 gallon), a good heat source, a high quality mesh bag ( I like the Wilser bags, he is a forum member who custom makes them for your kettle), and if your budget allows, a grain mill. There are many other miscellaneous items of course. You’ll be all grain brewing on the “small footprint” like you mentioned above.
This is just my 2¢ and there are many ways to achieve the same results, as you are finding out.

Edit: in the thread I linked above, I personally think his STEP 4 is unnecessary and I do not use the inner metal basket. There are a few other things that may or not be useful for individual situations. It’s just a good tutorial to understand the process.

Edit 2: a subscription to a good brewing calculator like BeerSmith or Brewer’s Friend is a valuable tool, especially when all grain brewing.
 
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Thanks for the advice. I will rethink my hazy for now. I'll also read through the thread.

Also I have natural gas available. How should I use it? With a turkey fryer setup or is there a better way?
 
Also I have natural gas available. How should I use it? With a turkey fryer setup or is there a better way?
That would certainly work if you have a way to safely hook it up. Google “natural gas turkey fryer” and you’ll see quite a few options. The Bayou Classics are supposed to be good ones.
 
Personally I'm partial to the all in one systems, but I brewed for a couple of years on my kitchen stove, both extract and BIAB, before settling on the volume, method and system that worked best for me. Starting out with my stove and a big stock pot got me started in the hobby for about $100, and gave me all I needed to brew while I figured things out. Making the wort is pretty easy, no matter what gear you're using. The nuances of fermentation, temp control and packaging are where more of the magic is. Check out some videos on YouTube too. There are a ton of good videos about the different brewing methods and systems.

A good book to get you started is the homebrew recipe Bible by Chris Colby. It starts you out with pure extract recipes and works you through extract with stepping grain, mini mash, and then into all grain brewing. The recipes are specifically designed for each brewing method and are from a wide range of styles, so you can pick a beer to brew that you will like. They are designed to give you success and to grow your enjoyment of the hobby.

Once you have a few batches under your belt, I also recommend reading how to brew by John Palmer. It's a great book, but is VERY detailed and can be a little dense and intimidating to new brewers IMO. There is a few copy online, but the latest edition has more current information.

Also hang out at your local homebrew shop if you have one. They are great places to learn and many have clinics and workshops that are really helpful when starting out.

Cheers!
 
It took a lot of commercial brewers years to brew hazy IPAs well and there are some that still can't do it although they brew all day every day. Taking that on as your first beer probably isn't the best choice to encourage you to keep at it. It can be done as a homebrewer but you need good process all the way through.

I agree with @Coastalbrew that youtube is a good resource to explore various brewing systems. It's a great way to see systems in action. You can brew almost anything on any system so you should figure out what fits your budget and preferences early on rather than buying and selling systems trying to find the right fit. Some people spend a lot of money looking for the perfect system and overlook their own hand in the process.
 
I started out extract brewing right on my stove top like most. It is a great learning point. Fermentation temp control is very important. Right up there with cleaning and sanitization. So that's where I would focus first.

I'm with @Coastalbrew when it comes to AIO systems. I eventually went with a Grainfather after watching many videos on YouTube. I floated back and forth between 3 . The M&B, Robobrew and Grainfather. The small footprint and being able to brew inside is wonderful.

As Hazy's go they're difficult because of oxidation potential. The hoppier the beer , the more susceptible. Brewers try and dry hop without introducing o2. Another reason these are tough for beginners is because beginners 99.9% of the time bottle . Bottling is an easy way to introduce o2 . There are ways to combat this but it comes with experience and learning techniques you'll find around this site.

The books and hanging around homebrew shop are great advice . It's a great community. So things to consider should be budget , footprint and location of where you want to brew .

Welcome to HBT and the hobby ! Read around this forum , there is an endless amount of knowledge here.
 
One thing I should have mentioned sooner is I drive a semi truck over the road and am gone quite a bit. So I'm wondering about automation. I'm very computer savvy having done limited programming in the past as well as building servers.
If brewing beer and have to leave during process is it possible to do so without ruining the batch?
 
One thing I should have mentioned sooner is I drive a semi truck over the road and am gone quite a bit. So I'm wondering about automation. I'm very computer savvy having done limited programming in the past as well as building servers.
If brewing beer and have to leave during process is it possible to do so without ruining the batch?

As long as you don’t have to leave in the middle of a brew day you can manage. You need a 2-6 hr chunk (depending on your eventual setup) when you’re guaranteed to be around.

The rest can be managed with automation and most beer is happy to sit in a primary or secondary fermentation vessel (under temperature control) for fairly long periods of time, especially if you do your cleaning and keep oxygen out of your process well.
 
OK, so I ordered homebrew recipe Bible by Chris Colby and how to brew by John Palmer. Thanks for the advice.

Good choices. I have How to Brew and read through it, then went back and reread parts. You don't need to read all of it before you start. Some parts don't really apply until you have brewed a batch or so.

I spend about 3 1/2 hours on brew day, getting my equipment out, doing the brew, cleaning and putting away equipment, and waiting for the wort to chill. After I have pitched the yeast and put the fermenter in a cool room I tend to mostly ignore it until I have time to bottle. That could be 10 days....or 10 weeks. It makes beer either way. The longer time in the fermenter lets more yeast settle out so it doesn't end up in the bottles.
 
Thanks for the advice, glad to hear my job won't get in the way. I just got to figure out the automation part and what equipment I'll start out with.
 
Thanks for the advice, glad to hear my job won't get in the way. I just got to figure out the automation part and what equipment I'll start out with.

It all comes down to budget . I leave my beer in the fv for 3 weeks before packaging. It just works for me . With a diy chiller it's great. It keeps the perfect temp and I don't have to worry about it .
 
OK, so I ordered homebrew recipe Bible by Chris Colby and how to brew by John Palmer. Thanks for the advice.
That will get you 90% of the way there. The other amazing source is Homebrew Talk! Any of your questions have likely been asked and answered here more than once. If you're not familiar with it, use the "site:homebrewtalk.com" function in Google. For example, type "small footprint site:homebrewtalk.com" into the Google search bar. And if you still can't find the answer to your question, ask it here on the Beginner's forum. Someone will be happy to answer it or to point you to a thread where it's already been answered.

Happy brewing!
 
If you haven't brewed your first beer and maybe a dozen after that, then you might consider just going simple as you can. You don't have to invest much at all just to start. You can do a 1 to 3 gallon all grain or extract on your kitchen stove with common cooking stock pots. And if you don't have them they are inexpensive at the big box stores. Fermenters too can be as simple as a plastic bucket with a lid.

A cheap 5 dollar hydrometer and a decent thermometer for mashing. Thermometer is probably where I'd recommend a really good investment right off the bat. A really good instant read thermometer. Though you can get by with a simple one.

Most kits seem to be for 5 gallons of beer. That's not something that can easily be done on your kitchen stove. A few places offer 1 gallon kits, most extract. But a few offer 1 gallon all grain. But you really have to search to find them. I started on the 1 gallon all grain from Brooklyn Brew Shop and they did make decent to some really good tasting beers. Their recipe instructions are made very simple with only the bare minimum necessary procedures.

Small recipe kits do get you brewing and you can then experience for yourself the basic process so you can decide a little better which direction in brewing equipment you would like to make a more expensive investment in. You can even bust up larger recipe kits into smaller amounts if you have the pot to mash and boil in and a container to ferment in. I've even fermented in the same pot I mashed and boiled in. But just once. I wasn't too impressed and it tied up a pot I frequently used for cooking. Probably easier to bust up all grain recipe kits than extract. Don't know for sure, I've never done extract.

When you read all the stuff discussed about beer brewing, you'll think you have to have something expensive. However not to start out with. IMO, you really only need the expensive stuff to refine and do better quality control of your processes. Some of that stuff adds complication to your brew day that you don't really need while you are learning the basic brewing steps.
 
here are a few recommendations based on 20+ years of using a pretty basic setup. as others have mentioned, the sky's the limit on what you can spend on this hobby! in no particular order:
1). burner: I have a natural gas connection outside the house on my deck. I started with a turkey fryer burner, but graduated to a Blichmann burner which has a much higher BTU output. unless your turkey fryer burner is set up for natural gas (turkey fryer burners normally come with an orifice sized for propane), I would recommend not trying to modify the orifice for natural gas but rather buy a new burner.
2) brew kettle: even though I agree you should start with an ingredients kit, which might only require a 3-gal kettle, you will very likely graduate to all-grain brewing which will require a full-wort boil. if you plan on doing 5-gallon batches for a while, purchase at least a 10-gallon kettle (6+ gallons pre-boil volume plus headspace in the kettle for foam). I bought a heavy-duty aluminum 10-gallon kettle, plus lid, from a local restaurant supply house.
3) fermentation vessel: you can get started with a 6-gallon bucket and lid (drilled for an airlock) from your local homebrew shop. when you "graduate" to another type of fermenter, you can always use a spare bucket.
4) ingredients kit: I would strongly advise getting a kit with dry malt extract rather than liquid malt extract. you never know how fresh the LME is.
5) yeast: to get started (and maybe forever!) I would advise using dry yeast. it will work perfectly well, and nowadays (as opposed to when I was getting started brewing) there is a wide variety of dry yeasts to choose from. you will likely move on to liquid yeast, making a yeast starter, etc as you gain more experience.
6) automation: this is an expensive rabbit hole to go down. most yeasts have a fairly wide temperature tolerance. if you have a cool spot (maybe in your basement) you should be OK to get started, and not worry about a temperature-controlled fermentation chamber. I am a retired Process Automation engineer and I have resisted the temptation to use any automation for my brewing!
7). cooling: I bought a 25 foot roll of 3/8" soft copper tubing and gently rolled it around a large cylinder (somewhat smaller in diameter than my brew kettle) so the tubing wouldn't kink. since I boil and cool outside, I push a length of 3/8 ID plastic tubing over both ends and connect the tubing from the bottom of the coil to my water hose. I put the coil into the kettle for the last 10 minutes of the boil to sterilize it. again, you can upgrade this to a proper heat exchanger and pump later.
8) bottling: you will probably bottle your first few batches before jumping into kegging. I bottled for several years. to minimize the mess from spills, I opened my dishwasher door all the way (almost 90 degrees) and put the bottles on the door with the bottling bucket on the counter above the dishwasher. the spillage stayed on the opened door. then when finished, i closed the door and away went the spillage into the dishwasher drain. you might be able to snag some empty bottles for free, or for cheap, at you LHBS. sometimes home brewers that have switched to kegging donate their bottles to the store for someone to reuse. the bottles I got started with were from the days of returnable longnecks, which I just seemed to forget to return for the deposit. the returnables were very sturdy. later I starting keeping some of the one-way longnecks. if you can score some grolsch bottles from somewhere, your LHBS should have replacement caps and gaskets.

good luck!!
 
The OP is a fast learner. He already figured out the best first step - buying the best books and studying before spending money.

For what it is worth, this is what I use to brew NEIPA's successfully with All Grain Brewing. A cheap Igloo Cooler Mash tun with a nice stainless false bottom, a relatively cheap brew kettle, a high quality gas burner (turkey fryer burners were too slow although I still use one for heating up sparge water), a Fermzilla All Rounder Fermenter (for sealed pressure fermentations), a spunding valve, a 5 gal keg (with pressure transfers to the keg), a cheap refrigerator with an Inkbird temperature controller (for temperature controlled fermentations and as a beer cooler) and the usual tools to make it all work (hoses, thermometers, CO2 tank with regulator, etc). My first NEIPA turned out great after I educated myself on how to brew with no oxygen exposure.
 
faithie999 thank you for all the great suggestions. I will definitely not start out bottling my beer. I have a 4 keg keezer that will be completed before I start. As far as costs go I'm going to make a fermenter with a homedepot foodsafe bucket and some foodsafe plastic spigots form amazon. I got the idea from:

About as cheap as it gets to start out. I'll go cheap and brew with starter kits until I learn the ropes.

I think the biggest problem I'll have with all of this is sanitizing. I loath washing dishes, lol.

A big thank you to everyone for helping me figure things out. I got lots to learn and am looking forward to the challenge.
 
Cool video . Nothing wrong with starting out cheap to make sure this is something you wanna do . Although building a keezer isnt quite baby steps lol. I started out with plastic carboys and the 7.9 fast fermenter before moving on to a Spike Cf5. Spigots are a must and make things much easier.

Something to think about here is your into Hazy IPAs. Your kegging so you'll have access to Co2. That's good for purging as you dry hop . If your going the bucket fermenter route you'll be kegging by gravity . You can still do closed transfers when using gravity . Closed transfers help reduce o2 . Here's a pic of closed transfer via gravity with my fastferment.
 

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If you are getting kitted-out with kegs from the start it might be worth pointing you to this thread on fermenting and serving from the same keg. I have done it many times with good success, as have many in that thread. Best success is by modding the keg with a floating dip tube. Importantly, I friend of mine who just got into brewing himself started this way because it is so easy. Also, because of the exclusion of steps requiring transfer of beer it is amenable to making hoppy beers. Might be something for you to look into.
 
Thanks hopjuice_71, I'll look into that.

I have an outdoor kitchen with a double side burner. It produces 12,000 btu per burner. If I get a 10 or 15 gallon kettle will that be enough heat to make wort or do I need to get a larger wok style burner? I saw one on amazon that produces 100,000 btu so not sure if I need all that.
 
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Jag75, in the pic you provided Beer in by gravity, pushing air out thru the other line? Cool

Yeah that gas line is connected to the top of the airlock . The little bit of co2 that's left in the keg is pushed out by the filling of beer. That co2 gets pushed into the fv to fill the void. You could not worry about that and just open the top but then air would suck in . It's probably not an issue since you purge the keg after filling anyways but I'm anal like that .

That's why I love the Spike conical . I can hold pressure , dry hop with + co2 pressure , temp control , harvest yeast and pressure transfer so there's no need to move the fv to fill kegs. If you move the fv to fill kegs you should let it sit for a while because moving will cause the sediment to kick up .
 
I have an outdoor kitchen with a double side burner. It produces 12,000 btu per burner. If I get a 10 or 15 gallon kettle will that be enough heat to make wort
Just to mash and make wort? To heat up your mash water, maybe. If you want to wait that long. But to get it another 60°F hotter and boil it might be another story altogether.

I've got a 22,000 BTU burner (if I recall correctly) 17,000 BTU (just looked it up) on my kitchen stove that lets me barely boil 24 quarts of water if I'm really really patient.

https://brewinreview.com/many-btu-need-brew-beer/
 
Hotbeer, thanks for the info,

OK so I'll probably order this: Amazon.com
Commercial 23 Tips Jet Burner. It produces 160,000 BTU's. I'll tap into my gas line under my outdoor kitchen and hook it up with a regulator and quick disconnect with flex hose so I can remove it easily when not in use. I have a welder friend that owes me a favor or three that builds bbq smokers. I'll ask him to fab me up a stand for it. Going to wait until I've made my first extract batch to place the order to be sure it's what I want. There's no hurry.
 
Thanks hopjuice_71, I'll look into that.

I have an outdoor kitchen with a double side burner. It produces 12,000 btu per burner. If I get a 10 or 15 gallon kettle will that be enough heat to make wort or do I need to get a larger wok style burner? I saw one on amazon that produces 100,000 btu so not sure if I need all that.
IIRC, garden variety turkey fryers are rated at around 60,000 BTU. I started with that, and it was fairly slow going, especially brewing outside when it was cold and windy. I moved to a blichmann burner, I think it was called the Top Tier burner, which I think was rated at 100,000 btu. their current model has a higher rating.

I would want to be at 100,000 btu or higher. that gets my wort to a boil in about 20 minutes.

edit--I just saw your latest post about a 160K btu burner. good choice.
 
I think you can’t beat one of the electric systems. You can run a smaller one like the Anvil Foundry 6.5 on regular 120v with no issues. Thats designed to make 2.5 - 3 gallons of beer though. The 5 gal systems would require 240v. Makes everything simple. I like having temp control and being able to do step mashes.
 
I recently started building up from zero equipment to a full brewing setup plus keezer. The only advice I have is to be prepared to spend a lot of money, even going the budget route on most things. Budget is probably the wrong word. Best bang for the buck is more accurate. Holy cow, things add up quick and I still don't have a complete brewing setup or a complete keezer.
 
Hotbeer, thanks for the info,

OK so I'll probably order this: Amazon.com
Commercial 23 Tips Jet Burner. It produces 160,000 BTU's. I'll tap into my gas line under my outdoor kitchen and hook it up with a regulator and quick disconnect with flex hose so I can remove it easily when not in use. I have a welder friend that owes me a favor or three that builds bbq smokers. I'll ask him to fab me up a stand for it. Going to wait until I've made my first extract batch to place the order to be sure it's what I want. There's no hurry.
All great advice from the folks here. I started out on the kitchen stove brewing extract kits and after 20+ years of brewing I now have a dedicated spot in the basement to brew all grain. I have a natural gas wok burner at 100,000 btu that works fine for 15 gallon batches but I've settled on ten gallons now. Make sure you have some quality gloves to handle hot things and a good fire extinguisher. Safety can't be stressed enough during your brew day. If you can brew outside that's a great option. Since brewing indoors I have large exhaust fan and open windows to bring in fresh air. I also have a carbon monoxide sensor in the brewery and throughout the basement/house. Brewing is a great hobby, lots of fun to connect with others as you're finding out here. Start out simple and hone your skills with every brew. After brewing for all these years I'm still learning, take good notes with every batch. Good luck, be safe and have fun!
 
I've read so many post it all seems to blur together at times. I want to fill a five gallon keg each time I brew after I do a few smaller batches to learn how. I've seen all sorts of sizes listed everything from 10 gallons and up to 15 gallons seems to be the general consensus. I want to buy the best one for the job the first time. So how big of a kettle do I need for BIAB?
 
I've read so many post it all seems to blur together at times. I want to fill a five gallon keg each time I brew after I do a few smaller batches to learn how. I've seen all sorts of sizes listed everything from 10 gallons and up to 15 gallons seems to be the general consensus. I want to buy the best one for the job the first time. So how big of a kettle do I need for BIAB?
Information overload, yup, that happens when asking good questions. I'm no help with BIAB but I see lots of posts here from folks. I started out at five gallon batches then bottling. It didn't take long to get into kegging. There's are smaller keg sizes available; 2.5 gallon being real common to have two kegs for a five gallon batch. Even when you upgrade those smaller kegs are useful to transport beer to parties as well as serving at home. My brew kettle is 25 gallon which was custom made but there's lots of them out there to be purchased with many ports for valves, thermometers and such.
 
I've read so many post it all seems to blur together at times. I want to fill a five gallon keg each time I brew after I do a few smaller batches to learn how. I've seen all sorts of sizes listed everything from 10 gallons and up to 15 gallons seems to be the general consensus. I want to buy the best one for the job the first time. So how big of a kettle do I need for BIAB?
I only do 5-gallon (nominal) batches. I usually have about 6 1/2 gal of wort at the start of the boil. I use a 10-gallon kettle. that gives plenty of headroom for the hot break foam. I bought the 10 because I determined that I would never brew anything larger than a 5-gallon batch.

a good heavy-duty 10-gallon brew kettle and lid is on the order of $100 (of course more for a 15), so you'll only want to buy one for the foreseeable future. if you think you'll ever be doing 10-gallon batches, you should buy a 15-gallon kettle now. the 15 will be fine for 5-gallon batches.
 
I've read so many post it all seems to blur together at times. I want to fill a five gallon keg each time I brew after I do a few smaller batches to learn how. I've seen all sorts of sizes listed everything from 10 gallons and up to 15 gallons seems to be the general consensus. I want to buy the best one for the job the first time. So how big of a kettle do I need for BIAB?

Need or want. You could brew a 5 gallon batch in a 7 1/2 gallon turkey fryer. I've done it. It isn't real easy, requires sparging as there isn't sufficient room for all the water and grain during the mash. Then as the boil starts, the wort is too close to the top of the kettle and boil over is likely.

10 gallons gets you away from most of the limitations. You still may have problems if:
1. If you want to make really big beers you may still be limited with the water and grain taking too much space.
2. If your mash efficiency is low you may need more space.

15 gallons gets you away from the limitations for space. However, it may take a better burner to heat up the wort for the boil.
 
I received my brand new 5 lb co2 bottle yesterday and found out I had the wrong connector on the regulator to fit the bottle. After further investigation I discovered that I had a nitrogen regulator. Sending it back free shipping so not all is lost. Then I went on Micrormatic website to get the right one and saw there are several to choose from. I know to get one with a check valve and I'll get one with 2 gauges but the low gauge, 0 to 15 or 0 to 60?

Never mind 0 to 60 because my secondary regulators can dial it down from there. Duh.
 
I received my brand new 5 lb co2 bottle yesterday and found out I had the wrong connector on the regulator to fit the bottle. After further investigation I discovered that I had a nitrogen regulator. Sending it back free shipping so not all is lost. Then I went on Micrormatic website to get the right one and saw there are several to choose from. I know to get one with a check valve and I'll get one with 2 gauges but the low gauge, 0 to 15 or 0 to 60?
I'd go with the 0-60 range. 0-15 doesn't give enough adjustment and you might need to jack up the CO2 beyond 15 in many instances like pressurizing the kegs after they are filled. I have two cylinders, one for serving beer and the other for pressurizing the kegs once they are filled.
 
Looks like a fine choice for a regulator. Just remember the two outlets would be the same pressure; so if you set the regulator at 10 psi you'll have 10 psi at both outlets. A dual body regulator would allow you to have two different pressures from one CO2 cylinder. That type of regulator would have three gauges, high side and two low side. On my setup I have one regulator feeding a distribution block with six outlets, all at the same set pressure of the regulator and they supply the same pressure (minus any pressure drop) to six corny kegs for serving. There's a check valve at the regulator and inline check valves at each keg QD.

Buy good gas line and beer line for that matter. It'll cost a little more but will give you better results in the long run. You'll find ways to save money, like buying in bulk when you can. I try to buy 100' CO2 and beer line. CO2 will last a longer than the beer lines. Even after religious beer line cleaning they will need to be replaced at some point.

Happy 2022 and welcome to the rewarding hobby of brewing beer!
 
Thank you for the comments. I understand the pressures will be the same. So I'll set the primary high enough to pressurize the keg and dial it down at the secondary Micromatic 4 gang regulator where I can lower pressure to each keg individually. I'm thinking this will work?
 

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