What disaster bottling was l.

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Brewing1976

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Ok went to bottle my beer finally. The bottler wasn’t crimping the bottles and it also kept on breaking bottles. I wasn’t even giving it much pressure either. I wasted a whole 4 gallons of beer and only got 12 pack. Is there any better bottlers then this.
 
That looks like it might be a corker for bottling wine not a bottle capper. Or you are missing the part that crimps the cap.

I have not seen one of that particular style.

Most hand cappers grab around the neck and push a flat or domed surface (much like a smooth, slightly larger bottle cap) down over the cap crimping it to the bottle top. Your capping part looks too small to cover the cap.

A corker squeezes a cork and shoves it down into the bottle with a cork sized piston. Though I don't see where you would put the cork in to be compressed but the part that would cover the cap to crimp it appears to be the size of a cork or bottle neck.
 
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BrewInspector said:
That looks like it might be a corker for bottling wine not a bottle capper. Or you are missing the part that crimps the cap. I have not seen one of that style.

Cappers grab around the neck and push a flat or domed surface (much like a smooth, slightly larger bottle cap) down over the cap crimping it to the bottle top. (Your part looks too small)

A corker squeezes a cork and shoves it down into the bottle with a cork sized piston. Though I don't see where you would put the cork in to be compressed.
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In the immortal words of Adam Savage-"Well, there's your problem".
 
As I said ..." looks like"...or..."missing a part"... Something is wrong and it appears to be the capper

On that same page in your link is a spare crimping cup. Is there something similar that is in the position where the cap is placed on the bottle? If not that could be the issue. It looks like it may be there but that central plastic part within it appears to be far to low to allow it to cap and crimp.

Your bottles look fine. The capper only works one way and should not cause bottles to break.

You really can't do it wrong. Place a cap on the bottle, center the capper over the cap, push the handles down. It is done. You can't over crimp or otherwise crush the bottle.
 
MaxStout said:
I started on one like that. The "Red Baron." Good, solid capper. Don't think I had a single break with that one. But it doesn't play well with stubby bottles. I went with the bench model and it works great.
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That’s definitely the main advantage of the bench capper... it will cap anything regardless of neck style.
 
MaxStout said:
I started on one like that. The "Red Baron." Good, solid capper. Don't think I had a single break with that one. But it doesn't play well with stubby bottles. I went with the bench model and it works great.
Click to expand...

Yeah, looking back there were a few bottles that would “catch” a little, may have been stubbies.... i ended up culling and collecting all similar bottles to fit better in crates. I guess I inadvertently ditched my problem bottles because I no longer have that issue. I’m sure there’s a fitting line about fools and children that could apply here (unfortunately I’m no child)...
 
I'll mail someone a decent wing capper. Just pay shipping from Ohio or local pickup. I have 3 that I don't need, and they all work fine; perfect seal and never a broken bottle.

I now use a bench capper. Love it.

Cheers
 
MaxStout said:
For $40 get one of these. It'll pay off next batch when you're not wasting another 4 gallons of homebrew and dozens of bottles.


image_504_b67e5411-d3e3-47d6-a75c-926daf3e2544_x700.jpg
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The plastic head on these is a potential problem area. There are reports of it cracking/breaking. Strange that for $40 something a bit more rugged that can stand the test of usage and time can't be had. Such as the all steel ones sometimes found in flea markets.
 
IslandLizard said:
The plastic head on these is a potential problem area. There are reports of it cracking/breaking. Strange that for $40 something a bit more rugged that can stand the test of usage and time can't be had. Such as the all steel ones sometimes found in flea markets.
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Interesting. I'll have to keep an eye on mine, watch for stress cracks. Maybe it's the same plastic they use for those Vinators. I've snapped off a couple of those. :mad:

I saw the Colt at Morebeer. Looks more robust, for about $10 more. Otherwise, the steel models are $140.
 
MaxStout said:
Interesting. I'll have to keep an eye on mine, watch for stress cracks. Maybe it's the same plastic they use for those Vinators. I've snapped off a couple of those. :mad:

I saw the Colt at Morebeer. Looks more robust, for about $10 more. Otherwise, the steel models are $140.
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I've seen pictures posted where the head had cracked in the high-stress areas.
Maybe sandblast/acetone the outside of the head and fill it up with JB Weld or some other epoxy... :tank:

I have a mostly all-metal wing capper (from MoreBeer, IIRC). It doesn't give you that weird flexing feeling the all-plastic ones do when crimping the cap. It has been going strong for 10 years, but I haven't done much bottling since I started kegging 6 years ago.
 
Definitely something wrong with the capper. There are cappers/heads (and bottles) for both 26 and 29mm crown caps (at least in Europe, not sure how you measure these in US). Make sure that it's the correct size. The quality of these devices seems to vary, too.
 
Without reading through the whole thread I just want to add that I have used that same grey capper twice. It immediately went into the garbage with the two bottles that it broke.

It came with a set of used gear I got along with the red wing capper posted here too. I have since bottles a couple hundred beers without breaking a single one. So just toss it in the garbage and get a different one.
 
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Though most are probably right in that you need a different capper, I'll throw out one more idea.

The bottle you pictured has a long collar on it. Some bottles have short collars. If your capper is set for short collar and you try to crimp on a long collar I could see it breaking bottles.

Do you know if/how to adjust your capper for different collars?
 
I used the Red Baron capper for years, then kegged and sometimes bottled for a few years. I moved and my kegging is in storage. I bought a bench capper mostly to have a backup. The Red Baron is the backup, though I never had any problems with it. I have only broken one bottle in 7 3/4 years and that was with a wine corker. I didn't have the bottom of the bottle centered on the bottom plate. It shot out to the side, broke on the tile floor.... Red wine everywhere....

The Red Baron capper worked equally as well on both long necks AND stubbies.
 
I use a vintage cast iron bench capper that I picked up for ~$10 on shopgoodwill.com and I love it. It's an Everedy brand 'Gear Top'; the design dates back to the prohibition-era when it was sold in the Sears catalog as a 'root beer capper'. Mine may not be quite that old, but the cast iron frame and steel rack-and-pinion mechanism are crazy sturdy and the capping action is silky smooth. I spent just about 2 hours cleaning it up and greasing it to return it to working order but I wouldn't trade it for twelve of your toes. It's my favorite piece of gear.
 
Brewing1976 said:
View attachment 626751 Ok went to bottle my beer finally. The bottler wasn’t crimping the bottles and it also kept on breaking bottles. I wasn’t even giving it much pressure either. I wasted a whole 4 gallons of beer and only got 12 pack. Is there any better bottlers then this.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to use the correct bottom plate size depending on your bottle necks, the bottles will brake..
All bottle cappers I have seen have reversible plates, pull out and reverse.​


20190518_210633.jpg
 
Brewing1976 said:
View attachment 626751 Ok went to bottle my beer finally. The bottler wasn’t crimping the bottles and it also kept on breaking bottles. I wasn’t even giving it much pressure either. I wasted a whole 4 gallons of beer and only got 12 pack. Is there any better bottlers then this.
Click to expand...
I still have my original capper, the red baron wing capper. I use standard long necks . inspect your bottles.
Havent broken a single bottle yet and have reused a few batches worth many times already. Use more wrist than arm when capping.
 
Jayjay1976 said:
I use a vintage cast iron bench capper that I picked up for ~$10 on shopgoodwill.com and I love it. It's an Everedy brand 'Gear Top'; the design dates back to the prohibition-era when it was sold in the Sears catalog as a 'root beer capper'. Mine may not be quite that old, but the cast iron frame and steel rack-and-pinion mechanism are crazy sturdy and the capping action is silky smooth. I spent just about 2 hours cleaning it up and greasing it to return it to working order but I wouldn't trade it for twelve of your toes. It's my favorite piece of gear.
Click to expand...
post a pic of that please. I was looking for a nice bench capper, couldnt find one with any with even mediocre reviews.
 
BrewInspector said:
As I said ..." looks like"...or..."missing a part"... Something is wrong and it appears to be the capper

On that same page in your link is a spare crimping cup. Is there something similar that is in the position where the cap is placed on the bottle? If not that could be the issue. It looks like it may be there but that central plastic part within it appears to be far to low to allow it to cap and crimp.

Your bottles look fine. The capper only works one way and should not cause bottles to break.

You really can't do it wrong. Place a cap on the bottle, center the capper over the cap, push the handles down. It is done. You can't over crimp or otherwise crush the bottle.
Click to expand...
FWIW. my red baron has the magnet in the crimp cup. I place a cap on the magnet and then take it to the bottle , lightly press down with arms while using more wrist to extend the "wings" to just past flat. Hardly any effort. The only time I've ever had an issue is using a bottle other than a standard 12oz long neck. Hofbrau uses a slightly different bottle , the neck collar is slightly shorter . It works but takes a second light crimp.
 
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On a real note I can't fathom why you have this ridiculous bottle holding contraption. This seems like a problem to me. A flat surface is all you need to cap bottles with a wing style capper.
 
I'm finding it interesting that so many have trouble using the wing capper on non-long neck bottles.

I keg my beer but sometimes I'll bottle part of a batch. I use an antique bench capper that will not extend low enough to cap any of the shorter bottles. Rather than placing a support under the bottle too raise it high enough to work, I'll use the wing capper on these short and varied bottles. Never had any trouble with it. Other than the occasional unaligned cap getting crushed it always works.

I don't understand the need for someone to hold the bottle or these bottle holding devices. As said by another above, a flat surface is all that is needed. If your bottle is slipping and sliding around you are using too much pressure and/or not pushing straight down. I'll admit that I have tipped ONE bottle over when putting the capper on it in SEVEN years.
 
I've definitely broken bottles with the wing capper. But I reuse quite a lot. Bench capper was the best investment I've made. Almost as good as kegging equip.
 
It may be an issue with the dome and possibly the wrong size. Does it have a magnet to hold the cap in place? If so put a cap on it and send a pic of that. It is possible to use a capper wrong. Are you allowing it to grab the neck of the bottle properly? Cap an empty bottle and show us what that looks like.

Also there are different sized caps. Do you have the right size? It looks like you do in the photo...just a thought
 
Brewing1976 said:
View attachment 626751 Ok went to bottle my beer finally. The bottler wasn’t crimping the bottles and it also kept on breaking bottles. I wasn’t even giving it much pressure either. I wasted a whole 4 gallons of beer and only got 12 pack. Is there any better bottlers then this.
Click to expand...

Late to the party here but there is something weird about that with the central piece sticking WAY down below where the bell edge is
upload_2019-6-4_13-47-10.png
 

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