What 220V element for welded lock nut keggle?

[Dgonza9]

I'm wondering what element to buy for doing 11 gallon batches using 220V. I won't be using a PID, just a switch with a relay, so I need about 4000W as I won't be able to dial down the element at all. I'm look for LWD or ULWD.

I've heard the typical ripple elements may not work with a locknut welded onto the outside of a keggle. Their shape supposedly makes threading it on tough. Is this true? Anyone know of an element that won't have this issue? Maybe a straight one or a foldback?

Thanks.

 

[Dgonza9]

THIS looks pretty good, although I fail to understand the 208V rating? I believe my actual voltage is closer to 240. Issue?

 

[yjfun]

When using these elements if you lower the input voltage you lower the output wattage of the element. It's for a commercial installation that uses a 120/208 volt wye system. Not something that you have to worry about in your home. I have welded locknuts on my system and use a 4500 watt ulwd foldback element from camco with no problems.

You would be better off using two 2000 watt elements instead since you will probably only need one of those to maintain your boil and you can turn the other off.

Also these elements don't draw enough current to justify using a relay you can just use a standard 20 amp switch from one of the box stores and be quite safe for a lot less money.

 

[Dgonza9]

When using these elements if you lower the input voltage you lower the output wattage of the element. It's for a commercial installation that uses a 120/208 volt wye system. Not something that you have to worry about in your home. I have welded locknuts on my system and use a 4500 watt ulwd foldback element from camco with no problems.

You would be better off using two 2000 watt elements instead since you will probably only need one of those to maintain your boil and you can turn the other off.

Also these elements don't draw enough current to justify using a relay you can just use a standard 20 amp switch from one of the box stores and be quite safe for a lot less money.

Thanks for the reply. I have to disagree with you, though. 2000W is not enough to run a 13.5 gallon boil. 4000W with a bit of reflectix on my keggle is a pretty solid boil for me.

I am currently using two 2000W elements, but they are both high watt density. I don't really have scorching issues, but I'm moving into lagers so I would like to change it. The difficulty with using LWD elements is that I didn't plan for them. My locknuts are perfectly square with each other. So an element that's 9 or 10 inches would collide with the other element in the keggle. I suppose I could bend them a bit, but that would seem to put a lot of heat in a small zone of the wort. One 4000W element seems to be a better plan.

As for the switches, I have a control panel that uses illuminated push buttons. They are only rated for 10 amps, so I use relays.

Where did you buy your 4500W element?

 

[yjfun]

I bought my element at Home Depot. I think it was $20.

I suggested the pair of 2000 watt elements since I dial my 4500 down to about 50% with a pwm and still maintain a vigorous boil.

 

[Dgonza9]

I bought my element at Home Depot. I think it was $20.

I suggested the pair of 2000 watt elements since I dial my 4500 down to about 50% with a pwm and still maintain a vigorous boil.

How many gallons are you boiling? Are you boiling in a keggle?

 

[Bobby_M]

Lowes stocks a LWD 4500 foldback element that looks to be about 14" long.

 

[wilserbrewer]

some options here...no extra low density at 4000w though...4500 might work fine for 11 gal if you anticipate a lil more boiloff...not a huge deal IMO

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

 

[Airplanedoc]

I got a 5.5K ULWD in mine with no problem. I picked it up at Farm and Fleet for $23

 

[Dgonza9]

some options here...no extra low density at 4000w though...4500 might work fine for 11 gal if you anticipate a lil more boiloff...not a huge deal IMO

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/elements.html

I bought my original RIMS element there. It was listed as ULWD. But it's definitely not. After a scorching issue I upgraded to a Rheem element that was LWD. It's easily twice the size of the supposedly ULWD element from plumbingsupply.com

I don't trust that site anymore.

Here are the two elements side by side. On the right is the supposed ULWD element from plumbingsupply.com. On the left is the Rheem LWD element. Both are 1500W and 120V.

 

[yjfun]

I do 12 gallon boils in a keggle with the 4500 watt element. 90% to reach boil and then 30-60% power to maintain a vigorous rolling boil depending on outside temp and wind. I usually aim for a 1-1.5 gal boil off in 60 min.

 

[zeus53219]

I've heard the typical ripple elements may not work with a locknut welded onto the outside of a keggle. Their shape supposedly makes threading it on tough. Is this true?

It depends on how high your lock-nut is welded on from the bottom of the keggle. I am using a ULWD 5500w ripple element with no issue. I welded the lock-nut (I believe) 4" from the bottom for clearance while turning in the element. Also you need to dry fit the element and lock-nut in place before welding to insure the element sits completely horizontal when fully tightened. If not you could have issues with the dip tube being in the way.

 

[pvtschultz]

You should be able to get the element through the locknut, I got mine through a half-coupler with some coaxing. The biggest challenge for me was the outdoor electrical box that I epoxied around the coupler which got in the way during the coaxing.