Welding 101 = Fun Brutus Build

[MrLucky]

The welder is great, what a deal for $150. The frame is 1/8" square tubing, and it handles it no problem. For $50, the auto darkening helmut is a great addition also.

 

[BierMachen]

I had a question on the gas flexible hose. If the hookup on the hose is going directly out of the burner, is there any pressure built-up? If no pressure is built-up, then the .5 psi gas hose might work?

 

[SouthernYankee]

I had a question on the gas flexible hose. If the hookup on the hose is going directly out of the burner, is there any pressure built-up? If no pressure is built-up, then the .5 psi gas hose might work?

Yes, there is pressure built up. If I turn my burner all the way up to full blast, I start to get some of the flame from the propane coming out by the intake.
I'm just not certain of how much pressure it really is however, since I'm not an expert on this matter.

The hoses I use are rated for high pressure. Since the regulator is a high pressure regulator. I went with high pressure hoses.
I'm sure the LP hose you could use..but once again since everything else is high pressure (burners, regulator) why would you want to use LP hoses?

 

[MrLucky]

I know you answered this a few pages back, but I just wanted to be sure I read it correctly. In regards to the 1200 degree paint, is it holding up just fine, especially areas that are in direct contact with the flames?

Thanks again!

 

[SouthernYankee]

I know you answered this a few pages back, but I just wanted to be sure I read it correctly. In regards to the 1200 degree paint, is it holding up just fine, especially areas that are in direct contact with the flames?

Thanks again!

Yes, I dont have any problems with the paint..even after heating up my strike water and boiling the wort for 90 min..not a problem..
Direct flame not a problem.

 

[Wrecked]

So, what was the best guess final cost of your build?

I SO have brewers envy

I am so glad my wife has no idea about this forum, she would kill me for even thinking about building a Brutus

 

[LooyvilleLarry]

It's always "about $200 or so, I didn't really keep track dear"

 

[MrLucky]

Welder and extra flux core wire: $200ish shipped
Auto darkening helmut: $60 shipped
14" chop saw plus 5 pack blades: $125
1.5" square tubing, 1/8" thickness: $150
Paint: $25

I already had an angle grinder and disks, so that is not included.

Total cost for the frame: $560

Keep in mind that the actual cost of the frame was only $195 (Steel, extra flux core wire and paint), but now I have a couple more cool tools to play with.

 

[LooyvilleLarry]

See, I told you < $200 EVERYONE knows, tools don't count. Nice Build!

 

[MrLucky]

Yep, <$200, and no more . I still need to mount the pumps and fittings/tubing, but I am just about done. Also shown is a kegerator I just picked up for $150 off CL, came with everything but the kegs.

 

[SouthernYankee]

Im in the process of putting together a list of parts and the prices. As for the wife...well she didnt ask how much it cost. But the final answer is "yes honey, well ummmm under 200".

But to give an guestament. I would have to say over $500.. which Im including the welder i HAD TO BUY.

 

[ghart999]

Yes, I dont have any problems with the paint..even after heating up my strike water and boiling the wort for 90 min..not a problem..
Direct flame not a problem.

What temp is the red paint you're using? Also do you think you needed to go that far down the tubing with the red paint? I am using 2000F paint for the top (your stand is the blueprint I used) and 500F yellow paint for the rest of the stand. I would like to go as high up as possible without burning the paint up. Do you think your stand gets 500F just a few inches down from the top?

 

[SouthernYankee]

What temp is the red paint you're using? Also do you think you needed to go that far down the tubing with the red paint? I am using 2000F paint for the top (your stand is the blueprint I used) and 500F yellow paint for the rest of the stand. I would like to go as high up as possible without burning the paint up. Do you think your stand gets 500F just a few inches down from the top?

WOW, sorry guys... I been gone awhile with spring/summer. The kids out of school etc. I just haven't had the time to catch up on these forums.
And know time to brew...

But to answer your question. The red paint used wasn't rated at all for high temp. It is just a basic enamel paint.

I went that far down because of this. But if you are using 500F paint for the bottom half. Then I would assume you will be OK.
You have to figure that there is still heat being distributed along the sides of the burner toward the frame. The frame will still get hot..Which mine did.
But the 500F paint should be enough. I would say a few inches in your case using the paint should workout. But I'm not an expert!

 

[ghart999]

Thanks Yankee. I guess I will just try it and if too hot then come down a few more inches.

 

[chrislehr]

this is one of the most inspiring threads in a while for a few reasons.

1) thats a sweet stand
2) I also wanted a reason to learn to weld
3) I also wanted another reason to go AG!

 

[ghart999]

One more for you Yankee.

You used 16G steel for your rings. That seems pretty thick to bend by hand. Did you use some tool or is this something I should be able to bend around a 12.5" diameter cylinder?

Also once you got it there did it want to spring back out when trying to clamp and spot weld? Does this take like 3 people to do? Thanks.

 

[ghart999]

A few more yankee.

1) How many cans of black and red spray paint would you say you used? I would think one was enough for the black and maybe 2 for the red?

2) When the kettles are on the stand, can you see the burners at all through the wind shield? I worry about not be able to see the flame to make sure it is the right color, etc.

 

[johnnyo1977]

Hi ghart,
I have built a stand that was a copy of this one. two cans of paint should do. I had a freind bend the rings for me at his shop, it was much easier that way. I used vice grips to hold the rings together while i tack welded. a extra set of hands might be needed but i didn't have a problem. when the kettles are on the burners you can use the openings on the skirting of the keg to view the burners.

hope this helps.

 

[ghart999]

Thank you Johnnyo, that helps.

 

[TimWeber]

Sorry if this was already asked.

Your build inspired me. I bought the same welder and I've been living in the garage for weeks now. I am however getting a bit tired of grinding. I took a look back at your post and I noticed that your welds don't lift up off the material nearly as far as mine. Mine will raise about 1/2 or so. LOTS of grinding. My angle is pretty shallow I thought, I'd say something like 30 degrees off the surface. What did you do differently to get such low weld build up.

I am using .035 wire, 1/8 thick square tubing. 1.5x1.5 A tank could drive on this thing.

I think I might just go at it at a much shalower angle and run the bead faster to try and get the same effect.

 

[BendBrewer]

Never did thank you for the plans and posts OP!

 

[SouthernYankee]

Never did thank you for the plans and posts OP!

Thanks for the post! Its been awhile since Ive been here on the fourms.

Im just happy that others have used this tread to learn and plan there own project.

Yours came out great!

 

[EricT]

SouthernYankee you inspired me to weld my own brew stand. However I found that although I can do anything I put my mind to, welding is taking a bit longer. You made some pretty nice welds. Mine suck. Theyre either globby or burned through LOL.. They do hold well, so I must be doing something right but man are they ugly. I'm gonna grind em all down when I'm done then paint. Maybe some of the more experienced welding folks can give me a pointer or two. I'm welding 16 Guage tubular steel with a Lincoln 100. I have the 211 flux core wire. I have it set on the B setting and feeding at level 3.

 

[SouthernYankee]

SouthernYankee you inspired me to weld my own brew stand. However I found that although I can do anything I put my mind to, welding is taking a bit longer. You made some pretty nice welds. Mine suck. Theyre either globby or burned through LOL.. They do hold well, so I must be doing something right but man are they ugly. I'm gonna grind em all down when I'm done then paint. Maybe some of the more experienced welding folks can give me a pointer or two. I'm welding 16 Guage tubular steel with a Lincoln 100. I have the 211 flux core wire. I have it set on the B setting and feeding at level 3.

Thanks man!
What I did and you can try it for yourself to see if it helps you.
Use a half moon motion, go back and forth.
You want to start at the beginning and go side to side in a half moon like shape or a "U". Bring the welding tip as you weld toward you as you make that pattern.
Do not leave your welding tip on a spot for to long or you will start to burn through the metal.
If you do this pattern (half moon) your welds should look like mine.
If you miss a spot, you can always go back to re-apply.

Also some people like to use the "Z" like method.

Hope this helps out..and once you grind those welds down, it will look nice and clean.

 

[mellogrfx]

Hey Eric, I'm in the same boat. I too am learning to weld. Just bought the same machine as Yankee did...very nice welder Yankee. He is right about the shapes...I have also learned that if your angle on the weld is too high or too low, you won't get that "frying egg" sound. Also, in the manual it states that the wire should not exceed more that a 1/4". I was very anxious to start on my stand but I decided to take a few hours to practice on some scrap pieces and also to get a feel for the welder. I started on a wire speed of "3" and ended up almost on "4". As I practiced I also found out that I sometimes weld better when I "push" the tip instead of "pull" the tip toward me. One more thing...the auto darken Helmet helps TONS. Last words...Thank you Yankee for your post. I never thought I would attempt this project until I read your threads. thnx again

 

[EricT]

Thanks for the tips guys, I will try the U method and see what happens, also I noticed I was letting the wire get too long as well. I'll try some more practice welds before I do my inside corners as they are a pain to grind.

 

[SouthernYankee]

Thanks for the tips guys, I will try the U method and see what happens, also I noticed I was letting the wire get too long as well. I'll try some more practice welds before I do my inside corners as they are a pain to grind.

Everything Mellogrfx stated is spot on.
If your wire is getting to long, your not close enough to the metal. Be no more then 1/4 away from the metal as you move your welding tip around.
Once again I'm not a welding expert, but what Mellogrfx stated and from my experience building mine, this works best.

Have fun EricT and thanks guys for your comments. I'm truly happy that I could "inspire" others!

 

[EricT]

So here is the progress so far. Believe it or not the weld I'm posting is my average weld and is an improvement over my first ones LOL.

 

[mellogrfx]

Hey EricT...how's your welding skills progressing? Are you still having problems with the inside corners? Looks like you are laying a pretty good puddle and I can see a nice heat-ring around your weld.

 

[EricT]

Hey EricT...how's your welding skills progressing? Are you still having problems with the inside corners? Looks like you are laying a pretty good puddle and I can see a nice heat-ring around your weld.

Thanks Mellogrfx, I finished my build and posted pics over at the Show us your brew stand or sculpture. I didnt want to hijack this thread with my beer porn heres the link:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show-us-your-sculpture-brew-rig-46578/index117.html

The welds cleaned up nicely with a little grinding and seem very solid. She had her maiden brew last Saturday without any issues. Very happy as I couldn't find anything with a drawer , mobile and compact.
Cost:
60Ft 1.5" Tubular steel = 56.00
4" lockable caster = 42.00
24" drawer from HD = 30.00
1/2" plywood for shelves = 10.00
12x24" aluminum diamond plate = 20.00
Welder = free from neighbor
Learning to weld = Priceless!

Thanks again Southern Yankee

 

[Captian]

I am about to build a stand and am using a design very similar to yours and have a question about your gags pluming. I have read about the propane tank freezing up using these burners and the 30psi regulator. Do you have this problem using three of these burners? I know you will probably only having two running at a time but still wondering.

 

[SouthernYankee]

I am about to build a stand and am using a design very similar to yours and have a question about your gags pluming. I have read about the propane tank freezing up using these burners and the 30psi regulator. Do you have this problem using three of these burners? I know you will probably only having two running at a time but still wondering.

I only installed two burners. Never did have a third.
Both burners worked great. Never any problems as you mentioned.

 

[Captian]

I only installed two burners. Never did have a third.
Both burners worked great. Never any problems as you mentioned.

Great new. Awesome stand by the way. Can't wait till I have mine up an running

 

[HellBentBrewCo]

so I'm going to build a stand pretty much exactly like this. question is, what saw blade can I use on my table saw to cut the steel tubing?

 

[MaxOut]

I would not use the table saw unless it is designed for cutting steel. I’m not saying it won’t work but consider this-

Two blade options are Metal or Abrasive -

Metal blade- Expensive

Metal blades designed to cut steel are designed for specific RPM's around 1800 and require allot of torque. Your table saw is probably around 3500. Cutting steel with this could seriously damage your saw. The metal bits are heavier than wood and the guard on a wood cutting table will likely shoot them into your face. Not Good.

Abrasive blade- -Cheap

Abrasive blades discharge red hot metal particles that may melt the plastic parts around your blade and guard. Abrasive blades require even more torque than the metal blades and may damage the motor on your table saw. Abrasive blades get smaller as they wear increasing the RPM's and reducing the depth you will be able to cut. With a 10” table saw your only starting with 4-5” depth.

That been said If this is the first and only project you foresee in the future I would measure your material and take it to a shop to have it cut. Some places that sell steel will cut it for you for a small fee or even free if you buy from them. If you plan on doing many more projects and can justify it get the right tool for the job. I like the chop saws with a dry metal blade. Cuts nice and clean and no fiery sparks while cutting. The edges don’t get pushed over and need little or no cleaning after the cut. Just my two cents. Whatever you do be safe.

 

[twanger1994]

Thanks for the tips guys, I will try the U method and see what happens, also I noticed I was letting the wire get too long as well. I'll try some more practice welds before I do my inside corners as they are a pain to grind.

So here is the progress so far. Believe it or not the weld I'm posting is my average weld and is an improvement over my first ones LOL.

Eric did you starts that weld you showed us at the top or bottom? Good penetration and nice half moon at the bottom.. Wire speed changes with each person.

Glad someone chimed in on the tablesaw, Just spins to fast to be safe. metal cuts slowly and if using a saw blade with lots of coolant.

And im not sure how many people got a nice wide open basement to weld in like Yankee, But its not something you want to breathe at all. Welders commonly battle lung cancer. I know that is career welders, but make sure ya got good ventilation...

Enough PSA...


Awesome sculpture!!! Great job from planning thru design to building!!!


A+ on the AutoCad. That program really rocks.

 

[Goose5]

A few thoughts about welding. When I have noticed this subject here most are dealing with 110v machines. The main bottleneck with this type of machine is input. Find a 30 amp circuit to plug into. Use the thickest and shortest extension cord you can find. A 20 amp circuit will do. Nothing less. Performance significantly improves with the higher circuits. Flux core was mentioned by the OP. You must switch the polarity of the machine to run flux core. Consult your dealer or manual. It should be easy to do. Mig with a cover gas is run in DC reverse. With flux core it is run DC straight. Vertical welds are usually done from top down. This looks better but does not penetrate as good as flat or horizontal. Stick welds are started from the bottom up. I find if you turn it up for vertical welds it usually does okay on the tubing products I've seen photographed in this thread. If you must run MIG uphand instead of the "U" technique try proceeding upward making little triangles and turn your wire speed down a bit. It works for me. One poster wanted to use aluminum. If you are not a trade welder I would not recommend aluminum. It is one of the most difficult metals to weld. Heat moves much quicker through aluminum so there is a very fine line between a good weld and a big burned down mess.

 

[richbrew99]

I'll be starting mine soon, subscribed.

 

[airmonger]

I just read this thread, all 20 pages, and this is the were I am going to start my brew stand. I would like to comment on how all the needed info to build a great rig is all in one place. You pretty much have a template laid out for crafting a solid and affordable sculpture. Cheers!

I'm going to be placing my order for 10 sticks of 5 foot 1.5x1.5 16 gauge square tubing tomorrow. Ill make sure to post some photos once I finish or of anything that I change or modify.

Thanks for the inspiration.

 

[laizure]

I just read this thread as well and I am going to build it as well. I live in Germany so may be a little interesting with all the international changes.