Weld-less kettle valve kits

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pretzelb

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I'm considering a weld-less valve kit like this one for my 5g basic kettle that I mainly use to heat water. Anyone care to comment on how these work? I'm not overly attached to the 5g pot but I would like to avoid wasting money. I'm mainly concerned it would leak but I'm also worried about having the outside of the valve sitting right near the flame of my banjo burner (seems like the handle would at least burn).

If it helps, I'm mainly considering this to help improve my process. I currently have a spare cooler that I use for a HLT and it's awkward because it has no valve kit and because I can't reheat it (of course). If I can go from the 5g kettle right to my MLT then I can stop using the cooler as a HLT and save space. Plus if I want I can try to reheat the HLT if all my water is in the kettle.
 
I would try the ones from bargainfittings. I had 2 kegs with weld-less fittings that held up great...they make ones for coolers to. There probably a bit cheaper.
 
Nice suggestion. I like what I see at that site.

I watched a video they uploaded where a guy installed a kit on a keg and he even mentioned the placement was critical so that he avoided the holes in the bottom lip of the keg. He said the heat would escape up those holes and if the valve kit was near that it could melt the non SS parts of the fitting. With a pot that is flat I would think it's a concern. I may ask the folks at the site.

I also seem to recall one person saying a key factor is how round the pot is. The flatter the better to avoid leaks.
 
The weldless kits work on small pots as well as kegs.

The small curve at the hole will not be a problem when installing the fitting set.

You do have to be sure not to run your burner so its washing over the valve or other fittings you install.

If you find you are overheating the valve, you can position the kettle close to the edge on the side with the valve to keep the burner wash from heating it, or use a small piece of flashing to shield it.

Running your burner with the flames licking up the sides will definitely melt the plastic on the handle.
 
Thanks for the reply. Sounds like all I need to do is apply a bit of common sense when placing the pot on the burner after adding a valve.
 
I recently converted a sanke to keggle and installed a weldless 3-piece valve. I drilled the 1/2" hole perfectly with a darned expensive step bit and after installing I cant stop it from leaking. I installed per included instructions and even used pipe thread. I fiddled with it for over two hours and gave up deciding to mess with it again later.....

TxT
 
If you drilled to close to the skirt there may be a gap, and the O ring may not be getting compressed at the bottom...I installed two weldless bulkheads with 3 piece valves from bargain fittings and had 0 Leaks!
 
4-5 wraps usually is enough teflon tape. Sometimes the thin white tape will take a few more wraps to get a good seal.

Look closely at the leak to see where it actually is leaking from can clue you into what might be needed to fix it.
 
I bought a valve kit and a thermometer site glass from Bargain Fittings. Great service and after brewing w few batches with them, I don't know how I managed without them.
 
I am about to order all my quick disconnects for my brew rig...I cant wait to brew on it. It's nice to have a vendor you can trust to deliver quality products for a good price...BF all day!
 
If you drilled to close to the skirt there may be a gap, and the O ring may not be getting compressed at the bottom...I installed two weldless bulkheads with 3 piece valves from bargain fittings and had 0 Leaks!

I think that may be exactly it. I drilled directly above the skirt in order to be sure the valve was close to the bottom as possible to get all the wort. May have been my downfall.....

TxT
 
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