Water test results back...need help!!

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fur_252

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Ok I'm no water expert and I want to eliminate buying water if my home water will work for brewing. I had my water tested by ward labs- brewers test. So if anyone could tell me what's high or low and how to fix it for an all around water for brewing...or if there's no hope just tell me! Thanks

Sodium-7ppm
Calcium-31ppm
Magnesium-5ppm
Potassium-5ppm
Chloride-less then .01ppm
pH est. 8.0
Nitrate-.7
Carbonate-6ppm
Bicarbonate-135ppm
Sulfate-2ppm
Electrical conductivity-.23
Total dissolved-139ppm
Total hardness (lime)-98
Total alkalinity-121ppm
Iron-less then .01 ppm
Phosphorus-less then .01ppm
 
Ok I'm no water expert and I want to eliminate buying water if my home water will work for brewing. I had my water tested by ward labs- brewers test. So if anyone could tell me what's high or low and how to fix it for an all around water for brewing...or if there's no hope just tell me! Thanks

Sodium-7ppm
Calcium-31ppm
Magnesium-5ppm
Potassium-5ppm
Chloride-less then .01ppm
pH est. 8.0
Nitrate-.7
Carbonate-6ppm
Bicarbonate-135ppm
Sulfate-2ppm
Electrical conductivity-.23
Total dissolved-139ppm
Total hardness (lime)-98
Total alkalinity-121ppm
Iron-less then .01 ppm
Phosphorus-less then .01ppm
 
I was listening to a pod cast about a year ago (sorry, do not remember the exact source- maybe Zymurgy?) that basically said that if you like the taste of your local water, you will be OK to brew with it. Papazian dedicates almost an entire section on this topic also.

My advice would be this- If you like the way your water tastes, go for it. Try a batch out and see what you get. Remember, boiling will eliminate some of the hardness and remove chlorine when done correctly. Those are the two main gripes about residential water. If yo are good enough that you get the same results across several batches, try adjusting your water to the water available at your favorite breweries. You did your homework so all you need is a few common brew store additives to match what you are going for. I did a quick search for you and found This Linkey and This Linkey Also to get you pointed in the right direction.

Just out of curiosity, what city do you live in? By the look of it, I do not think you are in bad shape.

Does that help?

-Ritalin
 
RitalinIV said:
I was listening to a pod cast about a year ago (sorry, do not remember the exact source- maybe Zymurgy?) that basically said that if you like the taste of your local water, you will be OK to brew with it. Papazian dedicates almost an entire section on this topic also. My advice would be this- If you like the way your water tastes, go for it. Try a batch out and see what you get. Remember, boiling will eliminate some of the hardness and remove chlorine when done correctly. Those are the two main gripes about residential water. If yo are good enough that you get the same results across several batches, try adjusting your water to the water available at your favorite breweries. You did your homework so all you need is a few common brew store additives to match what you are going for. I did a quick search for you and found This Linkey and This Linkey Also to get you pointed in the right direction. Just out of curiosity, what city do you live in? By the look of it, I do not think you are in bad shape. Does that help? -Ritalin

Thanks for the info I live in ainsworth nebraska right on top of the Ogallala Aquifer
 
You have really good water overall. You can easily brew most styles without doing anything since your ions are so low. However, most beers benefit from some calcium chloride (get Ca up to 50ppm) and an IPA would definitely benefit from some gypsum (calcium sulfate). A dark brew would benefit from chalk (calcium carbonate).

When you have good water (low ions and/or low alkalinity) there isn't too much you have to worry about. Add a few salts to wake the flavors up a little bit and relax knowing you can add everything you need to get great beer.
 
The only real problem here is that the alkalinity is high enough that something will have to be done about it for many beers. You can reduce the alkalinity by diluting with RO water. 1:1 dilution cuts it in half, 2:1 reduces it to a third and so on. All the other minerals are also reduced by the same amounts so that while a 2:1 dilution would get the alkalinity down to 40 (which is generally good enough) this would also reduce the calcium, for example, to 10 mg/L and you would want to supplement it. See the Primer for broad guidance on what to do using this basic scheme.

Another approach is to zero out the alkalinity using acid. Just add enough to bring the pH of the water to the desired mash pH. A pH meter is best for this but test strips should be good enough. This does not affect the other ions but does replace the bicarbonate ions with the anion of the acid you chose. As you are low in both sulfate and chloride sulfuric and or hydrochloric acids are good choices. In the UK there is a product called CRS which would be ideal for this water. In the US you will probably have to use phosphoric acid which would leave you with having to supplement the chloride and/or sulfate with the calcium salts for many beers.

At this point I think RO and the Primer would probably be the simplest for you. Following its recommendations will get you good beer. As you learn more about the nuances of water chemistry you can move up to using one of the spreadsheets/calculators.
 
Water would have to be very mineralized for it not to make beer, so the advice of 'if it tastes good...brew with it' is going to 'make beer'. Unfortunately, making beer is not the same as making great beer.

Another way of looking at this is: if the water tastes bad...it will make bad beer. You can't reverse that true statement and expect good results. Good tasting water is NO guarantee that the beer will be good or great. It could actually still be BAD beer...even though the water tastes fine. A lot of brewers already know this. So that 'if the water tastes good' adage needs to be kicked to the curb. Only a lucky few can brew great beer with only that advice.

In truth, successful brewers have learned the tricks, treatments, or limitations of their water source and used that to brew great beer. Things like pre-boiling, acid rests and acid malt, acid additions, brewing with dark grains are components of refining a brewer's skill and knowledge in the quest for great beer. Budding brewers would be wise to recognize that water treatment might be a stepping stone to great beer.

Understanding what is in your water is the first step in assessing what adjustments to your water or methods could be incorporated to help you make great beer. The OP is on their way to this.

As AJ points out, the ONLY thing detrimental in the OP's water is the excessive alkalinity. Very simple treatment options exist for neutralizing the excess alkalinity. Given the low concentrations of other ions, dilution is certainly not necessary, but it is an option. Likewise, moving to a RO water source could make life simpler in some respects. But given the ease of dosing water with an acid, I'd say that this is far easier and cheaper than other options.

Do read the Water Knowledge page on the Bru'n Water website and you may start to understand the 'what and why' of brewing water treatment and remove water from an impediment to brewing great beer.
 
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