Wanting to switch to electric

[brew703]

Been brewing for 5 years now and want to make the switch to electric beginning of the year.
Would like some feedback as to which system would be best. I need a turnkey system, no DIY panels as I have no electrical experience or knowledge to piece one together.

I brew 6 gal batches with an avg OG of 1.060 and under. Want to stay with BIAB. Budget is $1500 or less. All of the systems below would be at or under $1500 except the SS Brew Tech which doesn't include most of the items I would need therefore pushing the price beyond my budget.

The Brewzilla isn't BIAB but could mash in a cooler with a bag but prefer not to go that route. I like the Clawhammer but I would not be able to brew full volume as the kettle is only 10 or 10.5 gal. High Gravity has a larger kettle but doesn't come with a BIAB basket so that would be an additional purchase however the kettle is larger but not fond of the Bayou Classic pot.

Just looking for thoughts/advice on which route I should go. Want this to be a one time purchase that will provide years of brewing.

I have read as much as I could on the web about all of the below systems and I'm honestly leaning towards the Clawhammer but would like Pro's and Cons of each from brewers who have used these systems.


High Gravity
https://www.highgravitybrew.com/sto...tric-Wort-Hog-5-10-Gallon-BIAB-240V-p3987.htm

Clawhammer
https://www.clawhammersupply.com/co...oducts/electric-home-brewing-system-240v-biab

SS Brewtech
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ebrewing-kits/products/ebrewing-1v-kit

Kegland
https://www.kegland.com.au/brewzilla-65l-gen-3.html

 

[Sbe2]

Interested to hear what everyone says, as I am in the same boat.

What doesn't the SS Brewtech not offer? A pump and "bag"?

 

[brew703]

Interested to hear what everyone says, as I am in the same boat.

What doesn't the SS Brewtech not offer? A pump and "bag"?

SS Brewtech only comes with the kettle, element and controller I believe. So no pump or anything so that would add several hundred bucks to the end cost.

 

[JayDog]

If I was buying I'd go with the High Gravity system.
15 gallon pot in my opinion is perfect for biab 5 gallon batches. You'll have plenty of space for hot breaks and have the option of brewing a bigger batch as well as higher gravity beers.
I would also go with the Blichmann pump upgrade as the cost isn't much. I would also add the option for a second pump.
Even if you don't have another pump it's good to have an extra outlet available.
As for the basket you can buy it on the Bayou website, it does add another $100 and kind of reaches the top end of your budget.
https://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/c...ssic-62-stainless-steel-stock-pot-basket-b160
The main thing to consider is that you need a 30 amp outlet nearby, and please make sure you are protected with a GFCI.

FYI you can use the promo code EBC75BB and get $75 off. That pretty much covers the basket.

 

[hezagenius]

The link for the High Gravity kit says it comes with a basket.

I went through this process about a year ago. I ultimately built my system piecemeal so I can't comment on how these systems perform, but I looked at most of the ones you listed so I can give you my thoughts on why I did what I did.

The SS system wasn't out yet so that wasn't an option for me.

I ruled out everything with kettles less than 15 gallons so that took out Clawhammer and Unibrau.

I read a lot about 120V vs 240v. For me, a 120V system would be way more convenient because I could do it pretty much anywhere inside a house, but I've read many discussions about the less than desirable boil achieved with a 120V system so I decided to go with 240V. That took out the Grainfather and would have ruled out the Brewzilla system, too.

If I was coming in with no equipment and wanted a full turnkey system, I think my choice would be the High Gravity.

If Unibrau had a 15 gallon system, I would have probably done that since I think they have the best kettle/basket design.

In an ideal world, Spike would have a 1 vessel system and I would have bought that, but they seem to be focusing on 3 vessel systems for now.

If you need to have any electrical work done, make sure you know the type of wall receptacle you need before you have the work done.

 

[brew703]

The basket that is included with the HG system is the basket that comes with a typical boiling pot- makes it useless for BIAB. I can order one from Utah Biodiesel or one of the other companies who makes the baskets- not sure of cost but at least $100 i assume.
I have an electrician friend who can run the wiring so the cost would be minimal for that part.

Brewzilla does have a 240v option which is approx $700. Just not sure I'm sold on that type of setup.

I did email Spike and they can hook me up with a 1V electric BIAB but cost wise, outside of my budget and more than i wanted to spend.

120V systems are out of the questions so focusing on 240v.

I do like the volume of the HG pot- Bayou classic isn't that great of a pot ( i know, i have a boiling pot for seafood) so that alone is kinda swaying me towards the Clawhammer- Just wish there was an option for a 15 g kettle. it's not a deal killer tho.

Thanks for the replies. Appreciate it.

 

[hezagenius]

Ah, gotcha. It comes with the baskets with the big holes for lobster boils and whatnot?

Be prepared to spend some serious coinage if you got with Utah or Arbor Fab. I had the build me a basket and it was like $300. Good quality, but not cheap. I barely use it anymore. I had them make it so that it gets close to the top of the kettle but for my current setup, it doesn't really work that well.

I will say this about Spike. They are not the cheapest, but their kettles are really nice. I have a 15 gallon kettle from them that I used to use on a burner and it is noticeably thicker and nicer than my other kettles (Bayou and Grounded Brew Tech). Grounded was selling a 15 gallon TC kettle with a basket last year for about $450 so I bought that. It works. It hasn't failed. But it nowhere near as nice as my Spike. I'm contemplating have Spike build me a custom 15 gallon kettle that has exactly what I want. I just need to decide on the measurements for where I want each TC port.

 

[Beer-lord]

I'm almost 1 year in with my HG system and love everything about it though I have to say, many have been pleased with the other systems linked in the OP's post.
I went with a 15 gallon kettle (SSBrewTech) and have brewed lots of beers on it and every single one of them has been excellent (I'm do for a bad one....roll the dice!).
The customer service from Dave and gang is redankulous! Fast email replies to any questions.

 

[brew703]

I did message HG and it is the basket with the big holes. But you can opt for a different pot (different brand). It does come with a BIAB bag so I really do not need a basket.

As for Spike, I will reach out to them before making a decision to see what it would cost for a 1V set up. I assume, cost wise, it will be above my budget (not to say I would stretch it some) but I want the system to include all the TC fittings and pumps. As with the SSBT system, the extras add up.

I did look up Arborfab and Utah and yeah the cost is above 200 plus shipping. Do not think i will pay that just to add a basket if the system I choose doesn't come with one.

I do like Spike- Don't own any of their equipment yet but looking at the Flex+. Just not sure I can justify the cost (almost $500) with accessories when i could opt for a Kegmenter for much less and would do the same thing, just not as nice looking as the Spike.

 

[kh54s10]

I also have been looking and have passed on some of those listed for various reasons. The one that appeals to me most at present is the Unibrau with the optional second element. I like that there are no hidden parts that are proprietary. Everything except the pots can be easily replaced.

And it is 120v so you don't have to worry about any special wiring.. Just find two GFCI protected circuits.

https://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-all-in-one-electric-brew-system

For the HG system the pot is used as a false bottom to keep the bag off the element. You will need to use it or something else.

 

[brew703]

I looked at the 240v Unibrau and it is appealing. Not sure about the 120v version. Cost wise, it would save some coin noting having to run a 240v line and buying a spa panel and breaker. Just not sure on time it would take to boil and get to mash temps.

 

[kh54s10]

I looked at the 240v Unibrau and it is appealing. Not sure about the 120v version. Cost wise, it would save some coin noting having to run a 240v line and buying a spa panel and breaker. Just not sure on time it would take to boil and get to mash temps.

I watched the videos and read reviews. The time to heat doesn't worry me. You can be doing other things while the heating happens. If I recall correctly it takes about 15 minutes mash to boil with 240v and 20 - 25 minutes with the 110v. Even it that is not accurate, for me the difference doesn't get me to want to spend the extra $$ for 240v. But I would go with the optional extra element. They offer two different ones. One higher output than the other. They say faster but easier to overshoot.

 

[brew703]

I watched the videos and read reviews. The time to heat doesn't worry me. You can be doing other things while the heating happens. If I recall correctly it takes about 15 minutes mash to boil with 240v and 20 - 25 minutes with the 110v. Even it that is not accurate, for me the difference doesn't get me to want to spend the extra $$ for 240v. But I would go with the optional extra element. They offer two different ones. One higher output than the other. They say faster but easier to overshoot.

Yeah, you have a point. For me, from start to finish it's a 4 hr brew day (incl clean up) but I could maybe work with the 120v. It is definitely cheaper so may consider that.
I'll have to check out the video's.

 

[kh54s10]

Yeah, you have a point. For me, from start to finish it's a 4 hr brew day (incl clean up) but I could maybe work with the 120v. It is definitely cheaper so may consider that.
I'll have to check out the video's.

Things I like about that one. 120v, so no need for special wiring. Less $$ than 240v. Everything is off the shelf so that if anything goes wrong it is easy to fix. The only thing difficult would be the power controller. And it is complete and pretty simple. About the only thing I would add is a hoist.

 

[purplerat]

I finally switched to all electric myself earlier this year after getting tired of brewing outside in the cold weather. I ended up incorporating a lot of equipment I already have such that I'm still doing a 3 vessel brew with re-circulation but I could easily use it for eBIAB if I wanted to simplify.

While this doesn't meet the OPs turnkey requirement I felt I'd share anyways as I found this to be a really simple, cheap and yet very effective way to get into electric brewing without having to get into custom panels or 240v wiring. There is some DIY involved but it's pretty minimal and you could probably buy pre-built components for just a little more.

The foundation of my system is to use a combination of an induction cooktop (1800w) and a heating element (1500w) installed in my kettle. The advantage of this is that each only needs 120v and can be plugged into standard outlets (must be 2 separate circtuits thought) without any panels. The total heating power is plenty enough for 5-6 gallon batches. Additionally, the use of an induction cooktop allows for solid temperature control as necessary.

The total price for this base setup is about $300.

Avantco IC1800 Countertop Induction Range - $130
GasOne 16 Gallon Stainless Steel Home Brew Kettle - $130
DIY heating element - $40-$60 depending on what tools/materials you already have or need to buy

I did have plans to integrate automatic temperature control via a CraftBrewPi and relay with the heating element which would increase the cost and DYI investment slightly but I've found that the induction cooktop is more than sufficient for holding mashing temperatures. Once I'm at the temp that I want I simply unplug the heating element and set the induction to level 2 and it holds just about perfectly for the full mash. The use of the induction-only during the mash also reduces and risk of scorching grains or bags.

This may not fit exactly what the OP is looking for but I thought it would be worth sharing in case anybody else stumbles across this thread while considering going electric without spending a fortune.

 

[hezagenius]

I considered the Unibrau and doing a combo of element and range heat. Set the cooktop on a medium heat and then use the element and controller to push it up to boiling. The element alone I would think should be enough to maintain the mash temp. I also really like how their basket integrates into the kettle and you can recirculate while having the lid off. They have the best design to me. The kettle size was just a dealbreaker.

 

[kh54s10]

I have a 3 vessel gravity system that is propane heated. HLT is 10 gallon SS pot, Mash tun is 10 gallon water cooler, and the BK is 10 gallon pot.

Trying to figure out 120v with 2 elements or induction and element for the HLT, rims for the mash, and 2 elements for the BK with and off the shelf controller.

This way I could use all my present equipment. What I haven't figured out is how the power all of the different units from a controller without stopping, unplugging everything, switching the cords to the next and starting the power again.

 

[kh54s10]

What don't you like about the kettle size? It should do about anything to medium high gravity for a 5 gallon batch. With a little work you should be able to brew anything you want in 5 gallon quantity.

 

[hezagenius]

What don't you like about the kettle size? It should do about anything to medium high gravity for a 5 gallon batch. With a little work you should be able to brew anything you want in 5 gallon quantity.

I'm used to using a 15 gallon kettle for my batches. I went with 15 because I didn't want to have to ever worry about boilovers from hops or being constrained on the size of my grain bill if I wanted a high ABV beer. I'm sure I could make 10.5 gallons work but I like being able to walk away during the boil and not have to worry.

 

[kh54s10]

I'm used to using a 15 gallon kettle for my batches. I went with 15 because I didn't want to have to ever worry about boilovers from hops or being constrained on the size of my grain bill if I wanted a high ABV beer. I'm sure I could make 10.5 gallons work but I like being able to walk away during the boil and not have to worry.

Makes sense. But I use 10 gallon pots, I can see the foam over flowing a 15 or maybe even a 20 gallon pot if I didn't watch at the beginning of a boil. YMMV. My pots are 10 gallons so I am used to watching at the start of the boil. You might have to incorporate some kind of sparge for a really big beer, but that takes away from some of the convenience of the package.

 

[brew703]

After thinking about this, I'm now kinda leaning towards the 120v system. It would probably be between the Unibrau and Clawhammer. Just not sure I want to spend an additional $400 for the Unibrau. The EZboil controller for the Unibrau is $100 more than the ETC controller-Don't really need the cooling feature of the ETC but not sure the additional $100 is justified for the Ezboil.
Could not find any video's for the Unibrau other than what the manufacturer put out. Clawhammer has a few.
Guess I'll continue researching and try to make the right decision.

 

[brew703]

I've pretty much narrowed it down to the Unibrau and Clawhammer. I like the design of the Unibrau but don't really want to spend the additional $400. I'm not in a rush so will probably wait until holiday time to see if there are any sales.

 

[kh54s10]

I've pretty much narrowed it down to the Unibrau and Clawhammer. I like the design of the Unibrau but don't really want to spend the additional $400. I'm not in a rush so will probably wait until holiday time to see if there are any sales.

I looked at the Clawhammer previously. It must have been version one. I was not impressed at the time. Version 2 looks pretty good. But I don't like the hooks you have to put under the basket for draining. I guess it wouldn't be much of a problem if you use a hoist.

The other thing I would want is a second element. The Unibrau has one already to order, then you just move things around using the Tri-clamps.

I will have to keep my eye on the Clawhammer.

 

[Beer-lord]

For the HG system the pot is used as a false bottom to keep the bag off the element. You will need to use it or something else.

I don't but know a few guys that don't use the basket and put the bag on the element (using the BoilCoil in the HG system) and have no problem. It is ultra low watt density. However, I prefer not to take any chances damaging the coil or uneven heating so I use the basket.

Also, Basic Brewing Radio has a coupon for HG if you change your mind that gets you $75 off.
I think your two options are still very good. Clawhammer has been tested as well and seems to be doing well. Personally, I couldn't live with the 120 but I saved a bit to pay for the wiring at home and a few upgrades. We have so many great options at our disposal.

 

[Bobby_M]

Single element 120v sucks.

 

[kh54s10]

Single element 120v sucks.

My thoughts exactly.

I think someday I need to hit up Brewhardware.com and convert my propane to electric. Gotta figure out the rig though. 3 vessel with herms or rims. Or use some of my rig for BIAB, 240v or 120v with 2 elements.

 

[brew703]

Single element 120v sucks.

Yes it does but really don't want to spend the extra bucks for spa panel, breaker, plug, wiring etc. Those items alone add $500+ to the overall cost.
120v will take longer to get to temps but i think it's something I can live with.
I'm still not 100% sold on any system yet.
I do like the Unibrau and the ability to add a 2nd element and I may go that route but I could also add a heat stick but those are never in stock.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'll build you a dual element BIAB kettle.

A single element 120 kettle is a 6 hour brew day. Dual 120v gets you to about 5 hrs. 240v is about 4hrs. Time or money?

 

[brew703]

I'll build you a dual element BIAB kettle.

A single element 120 kettle is a 6 hour brew day. Dual 120v gets you to about 5 hrs. 240v is about 4hrs. Time or money?

Are you referring to 2 of your 120v heat sticks?

 

[mongoose33]

I'll build you a dual element BIAB kettle.

A single element 120 kettle is a 6 hour brew day. Dual 120v gets you to about 5 hrs. 240v is about 4hrs. Time or money?

Then later, when you switch to 240, you'll have the sunk cost in the 120v approach.

I have a couple of data points. When I was using propane--and that was the Hellfire burner--it took me 48 minutes to take 7.75 gallons of 60 degree water to boiling.

With my 240v electric, it recently took 31 minutes to take 8.25 gallons from 66 to 200 degrees. I can't imagine how much slower that would have been with 120v. Twice the time?

The beauty of this, IMO, is that I can turn on the water to heat while I get other stuff ready. No babysitting which I always had to do with the Hellfire. I brewed with that in my garage, which Blichmann explicitly tells you not to do, but I never, ever left it unattended. With the electric? No worries.

 

[mongoose33]

I've pretty much narrowed it down to the Unibrau and Clawhammer. I like the design of the Unibrau but don't really want to spend the additional $400. I'm not in a rush so will probably wait until holiday time to see if there are any sales.

Here are a few of my thoughts--take them as data that may or may not be important to you in your situation and context.

The clawhammer is the most complete system. It includes a plate chiller, pump, and hoses. A plus is the quick disconnects. I have camlocks on my system because the QDs are just so much more expensive, but they're easier to use. I wish I had them. Nothing that a few hundred dollars wouldn't be able to correct in my case.

I have an aversion to all-in-one systems. That's probably a personal problem but to do a system like the Unibrau or Grainfather, there are certain design elements that are built in and you can't change. Obviously the Grainfather's popularity would suggest that's not a concern for many people, but it is for me.

I'd also suggest this: what are you going to wish you had done in six months or a year from now? Are you going to sink money into equipment or an approach you'll regret? Sometimes it might be better to accumulate more money (sell some unused equipment, do some craigslist dumping, give up your lattes for a month or two) in order to get what you want instead of a compromise system you'll regret before long.

Regardless, good luck--fun to have these kinds of problems.

 

[brew703]

90

Here are a few of my thoughts--take them as data that may or may not be important to you in your situation and context.

The clawhammer is the most complete system. It includes a plate chiller, pump, and hoses. A plus is the quick disconnects. I have camlocks on my system because the QDs are just so much more expensive, but they're easier to use. I wish I had them. Nothing that a few hundred dollars wouldn't be able to correct in my case.

I have an aversion to all-in-one systems. That's probably a personal problem but to do a system like the Unibrau or Grainfather, there are certain design elements that are built in and you can't change. Obviously the Grainfather's popularity would suggest that's not a concern for many people, but it is for me.

I'd also suggest this: what are you going to wish you had done in six months or a year from now? Are you going to sink money into equipment or an approach you'll regret? Sometimes it might be better to accumulate more money (sell some unused equipment, do some craigslist dumping, give up your lattes for a month or two) in order to get what you want instead of a compromise system you'll regret before long.

Regardless, good luck--fun to have these kinds of problems.

It's not really about the money- I can spend $1500 on a 240v system if I wanted to. Even if it takes me 6 hrs to brew/clean up on a 120v system on a $900 Clawhammer or $1400 Unibrau does spending $1400 for a 240v plus the additional $500 or so for the 240 hookup (parts/labor) for a 1 or 2 hr reduction worth it? It takes me 4 hr from start to finish on my propane system now. I just want something that allows me to brew inside when I want. In the summer, it can get 100+ in my garage. Not to bad in the winter as temps here in the South rarely get near freezing. I can see how the system would struggle in the winter if I choose to brew outside.

When I first started looking at electric systems, I was dead set against going the 120v route. But after doing some research, I have somewhat re-considered.

If I go the 120v route will I regret it down the line? Possibly and that has led me to not make the impulse buy.

On top of this, I'm about to put my house on the market so I'm kinda leaning to waiting until I find a new house. One of the requirements I have for a new house is a man cave. Has to either have the structure already in place or space in the backyard to construct one. Either way, I can have a 220 line run at that time.

What I will do is take a couple months to refine my plan and then make a decision beginning of the year. In all honestly, I would prefer a 240v but after looking at the 120v it could work.

Anyways, thanks for all the replies an input- Much appreciated.

 

[brew703]

90

Here are a few of my thoughts--take them as data that may or may not be important to you in your situation and context.

The clawhammer is the most complete system. It includes a plate chiller, pump, and hoses. A plus is the quick disconnects. I have camlocks on my system because the QDs are just so much more expensive, but they're easier to use. I wish I had them. Nothing that a few hundred dollars wouldn't be able to correct in my case.

I have an aversion to all-in-one systems. That's probably a personal problem but to do a system like the Unibrau or Grainfather, there are certain design elements that are built in and you can't change. Obviously the Grainfather's popularity would suggest that's not a concern for many people, but it is for me.

I'd also suggest this: what are you going to wish you had done in six months or a year from now? Are you going to sink money into equipment or an approach you'll regret? Sometimes it might be better to accumulate more money (sell some unused equipment, do some craigslist dumping, give up your lattes for a month or two) in order to get what you want instead of a compromise system you'll regret before long.

Regardless, good luck--fun to have these kinds of problems.

It's not really about the money- I can spend $1500 on a 240v system if I wanted to. Even if it takes me 6 hrs to brew/clean up on a 120v system on a $900 Clawhammer or $1400 Unibrau does spending $1400 for a 240v plus the additional $500 or so for the 240 hookup (parts/labor) for a 1 or 2 hr reduction worth it? It takes me 4 hr from start to finish on my propane system now. I just want something that allows me to brew inside when I want. In the summer, it can get 100+ in my garage. Not to bad in the winter as temps here in the South rarely get near freezing. I can see how the system would struggle in the winter if I choose to brew outside.

When I first started looking at electric systems, I was dead set against going the 120v route. But after doing some research, I have somewhat re-considered.

If I go the 120v route will I regret it down the line? Possibly and that has led me to not make the impulse buy.

On top of this, I'm about to put my house on the market so I'm kinda leaning to waiting until I find a new house. One of the requirements I have for a new house is a man cave. Has to either have the structure already in place or space in the backyard to construct one. Either way, I can have a 220 line run at that time.

What I will do is take a couple months to refine my plan and then make a decision beginning of the year. In all honestly, I would prefer a 240v but after looking at the 120v it could work.

Anyways, thanks for all the replies an input- Much appreciated.

 

[brew703]

90

Here are a few of my thoughts--take them as data that may or may not be important to you in your situation and context.

The clawhammer is the most complete system. It includes a plate chiller, pump, and hoses. A plus is the quick disconnects. I have camlocks on my system because the QDs are just so much more expensive, but they're easier to use. I wish I had them. Nothing that a few hundred dollars wouldn't be able to correct in my case.

I have an aversion to all-in-one systems. That's probably a personal problem but to do a system like the Unibrau or Grainfather, there are certain design elements that are built in and you can't change. Obviously the Grainfather's popularity would suggest that's not a concern for many people, but it is for me.

I'd also suggest this: what are you going to wish you had done in six months or a year from now? Are you going to sink money into equipment or an approach you'll regret? Sometimes it might be better to accumulate more money (sell some unused equipment, do some craigslist dumping, give up your lattes for a month or two) in order to get what you want instead of a compromise system you'll regret before long.

Regardless, good luck--fun to have these kinds of problems.

It's not really about the money- I can spend $1500 on a 240v system if I wanted to. Even if it takes me 6 hrs to brew/clean up on a 120v system on a $900 Clawhammer or $1400 Unibrau does spending $1400 for a 240v plus the additional $500 or so for the 240 hookup (parts/labor) for a 1 or 2 hr reduction worth it? It takes me 4 hr from start to finish on my propane system now. I just want something that allows me to brew inside when I want. In the summer, it can get 100+ in my garage. Not to bad in the winter as temps here in the South rarely get near freezing. I can see how the system would struggle in the winter if I choose to brew outside.

When I first started looking at electric systems, I was dead set against going the 120v route. But after doing some research, I have somewhat re-considered.

If I go the 120v route will I regret it down the line? Possibly and that has led me to not make the impulse buy.

On top of this, I'm about to put my house on the market so I'm kinda leaning to waiting until I find a new house. One of the requirements I have for a new house is a man cave. Has to either have the structure already in place or space in the backyard to construct one. Either way, I can have a 220 line run at that time.

What I will do is take a couple months to refine my plan and then make a decision beginning of the year. In all honestly, I would prefer a 240v but after looking at the 120v it could work.

Anyways, thanks for all the replies and input- Much appreciated.

 

[brew703]

90

Here are a few of my thoughts--take them as data that may or may not be important to you in your situation and context.

The clawhammer is the most complete system. It includes a plate chiller, pump, and hoses. A plus is the quick disconnects. I have camlocks on my system because the QDs are just so much more expensive, but they're easier to use. I wish I had them. Nothing that a few hundred dollars wouldn't be able to correct in my case.

I have an aversion to all-in-one systems. That's probably a personal problem but to do a system like the Unibrau or Grainfather, there are certain design elements that are built in and you can't change. Obviously the Grainfather's popularity would suggest that's not a concern for many people, but it is for me.

I'd also suggest this: what are you going to wish you had done in six months or a year from now? Are you going to sink money into equipment or an approach you'll regret? Sometimes it might be better to accumulate more money (sell some unused equipment, do some craigslist dumping, give up your lattes for a month or two) in order to get what you want instead of a compromise system you'll regret before long.

Regardless, good luck--fun to have these kinds of problems.

It's not really about the money- I can spend $1500 on a 240v system if I wanted to. Even if it takes me 6 hrs to brew/clean up on a 120v system on a $900 Clawhammer or $1400 Unibrau does spending $1400 for a 240v plus the additional $500 or so for the 240 hookup (parts/labor) for a 1 or 2 hr reduction worth it? It takes me 4 hr from start to finish on my propane system now. I just want something that allows me to brew inside when I want. In the summer, it can get 100+ in my garage. Not to bad in the winter as temps here in the South rarely get near freezing. I can see how the system would struggle in the winter if I choose to brew outside.

When I first started looking at electric systems, I was dead set against going the 120v route. But after doing some research, I have somewhat re-considered.

If I go the 120v route will I regret it down the line? Possibly and that has led me to not make the impulse buy.

On top of this, I'm about to put my house on the market so I'm kinda leaning to waiting until I find a new house. One of the requirements I have for a new house is a man cave. Has to either have the structure already in place or space in the backyard to construct one. Either way, I can have a 220 line run at that time.

What I will do is take a couple months to refine my plan and then make a decision beginning of the year. In all honestly, I would prefer a 240v but after looking at the 120v it could work.

Anyways, thanks for all the replies and input- Much appreciated.

 

[brew703]

Damn, not sure what's up with the multiple posts.
Mods, please delete.

 

[tellyho]

If you're buying a new house, just wait until you can do 240V. But I am at the point where I don't even want to do a 4 hr brewday. If I really work at it, I can get a normal beer (no hopstand) into 3 1/2 hrs on my 240v kettle. It only cost me $500ish to build, including wiring (DIY).

 

[brew703]

My wife suggested I wait too. Never really intended on buying within the next 30 days. More than likely, I'll end up waiting until we move into another house then I can re-evaluate.
My brew day usually starts at 6-7 am on a Saturday. Not a huge issue if it takes me 6 hrs from start to finish on a 120v system but as mentioned, I would prefer a 240v system.

 

[Carolina_Matt]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I brewed a 4.5 gallon BIAB batch today, as well as Wednesday, and I was finished in 4 hours (including cleanup). This is with 120v (1500W).

My starting water is 6 gallons, so it would add time to heat up the extra 1.5-2 gallons for a 6 gallon batch, but not sure why it would take upwards of 6 hours. And if you get a system with a timer so that the water can be at strike temperature when you wake up, that time would essentially be 'free'.

 

[BigChas]

Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I brewed a 4.5 gallon BIAB batch today, as well as Wednesday, and I was finished in 4 hours (including cleanup). This is with 120v (1500W).

My starting water is 6 gallons, so it would add time to heat up the extra 1.5-2 gallons for a 6 gallon batch, but not sure why it would take upwards of 6 hours. And if you get a system with a timer so that the water can be at strike temperature when you wake up, that time would essentially be 'free'.

Would like to see a picture of your system.