Unwinding and Rebuilding Copper Chiller

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bmbigda

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
329
Reaction score
13
Location
Scituate, MA
I have a 50ft, 1/2" copper immersion chiller that I made a while back. It was originally designed to go into my 20 gal brewpot so I made it fairly wide.

I have recently made a transition back to stovetop 5 gal brewing, and the chiller interferes with the probe of my 8 gal brewpot's built in thermometer. I even went as far as to add a SS tee to the exterior of the pot to push the thermometer out even further, but the chiller still makes enough contact that i have to really jam it in to get it go down. The thermometer probe at this point is only protruding about an inch into the pot, so I don't think a shorter probe will help.

Unless someone has another solution (I'm all ears!) I think I need to attempt to unwind the chiller and rebuild it. Has anyone ever attempted this? I am very nervous about kinking the copper. Another idea I had was to make an indentation that runs vertically to accommodate the probe, but again - worried about kinking.
 
I also left out that the chiller's proximity to the tip of the temp probe is causing inaccurate readings during cooling, even with a whirlpool going.
 
Copper has a tendency to work harden, so the more you mess with it the more likely you are to kink/break the tubing.

In the event that the copper work hardens, you can soften the copper by annealing it, (heating to 400-700C) but this is alot of work and requires special equipment.

Your best bet may be to buy more copper tubing and build a second chiller.
 
You have a certain diameter and you need a smaller diameter. You should be able to place a form (e.g. corny keg) inside your chiller that creates the diameter you want. Then simply bend the copper up against your new form. The hardest will be the first full turns around the new form, but once you get those and your form is stable then it should go pretty easily. Keep your hands close to (on top of) the metal that's currently bending - it's when you start pulling the bend down using pipe that's ahead of the spot that's bending that you are likely to kink. Take it slow. Give yourself several days to finish in case your hands, arms, body get tired. Do a wrap or two in a session, and take a break. Kinks show up when you hurry or lose focus of the task. I think it'll be easier than you think.
 
You have a certain diameter and you need a smaller diameter. You should be able to place a form (e.g. corny keg) inside your chiller that creates the diameter you want. Then simply bend the copper up against your new form. The hardest will be the first full turns around the new form, but once you get those and your form is stable then it should go pretty easily. Keep your hands close to (on top of) the metal that's currently bending - it's when you start pulling the bend down using pipe that's ahead of the spot that's bending that you are likely to kink. Take it slow. Give yourself several days to finish in case your hands, arms, body get tired. Do a wrap or two in a session, and take a break. Kinks show up when you hurry or lose focus of the task. I think it'll be easier than you think.

this is a good idea that is certainly worth a try. the inlet and outlet part will still need to be very carefully maneuvered but it's certainly a lot less risky
 
Anneal the tube if possible. Remove the oxidation, and if possible fill the tube with fine sand, that will prevent it from crimping as easily. Though i havent done this in a brewing context. So YMMV,
 
Depending on funds, you might consider just buying a new one and make the old one an ice-bath cooler you hook up to the new one.

You can find them for in the $50 area--or you could perhaps make your own.

I might set up the old one in series with the new one--put it in a bucket, add ice and that way your cooling water will be much colder and you'll end up chilling that much faster.

Just a thought.
 
Depending on funds, you might consider just buying a new one and make the old one an ice-bath cooler you hook up to the new one.

You can find them for in the $50 area--or you could perhaps make your own.

I might set up the old one in series with the new one--put it in a bucket, add ice and that way your cooling water will be much colder and you'll end up chilling that much faster.

Just a thought.

Definitely a sound suggestion but my going in position is to make this my 1 and only chiller. A 2nd wort chiller is just too low on my homebrew wishlist. Not to mention I really have no use for a pre-chiller. The groundwater in new england is cold enough to chill down to lager pitching temps pretty quickly with a whirpool going.
 
I had the same issue as you OP when I added a kettle thermometer. I rolled it back out no problem and coiled it around something smaller. I used a 8" concrete form tube from Home Depot in the building materials section. Worked perfect. They have many sizes ranging from 8-11" because they are made to fit inside each other for storage.

I made sure to use pipe bending coils for the tight bends.
 
At this point is the chiller all the way in the pot? If so could you add legs so it sits above your probe? I did that with my chiller so it sits over my dip tube.
 
They are tightly wound springs that slide over the tubing to allow it to be bent without easily kinking. I have been contemplating rebending mine so that I can add a second chiller I have. The bending coils worked great when I made my first chiller. They are called Tube Bending Spring Set at the big orange home supply place $10.
 
Back
Top