Under electric pots?

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Chrisharvey

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What do you all use under your pots? Tile? Metal? I know it takes a lot to burn wood just wondering if you have a suggestion as to what to make my tops of my 3 tier gravity set up.


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What do you all use under your pots? Tile? Metal? I know it takes a lot to burn wood just wondering if you have a suggestion as to what to make my tops of my 3 tier gravity set up.


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I use a piece of underlayment (plywood) under all mine... its been about a year and no discoloring of the bare wood (except were I spilled wort) :). eventually I'll paint it or tile it if I dont just go with a stainless table after I move.
 
I built a my brew table around an 18x18" travertine tile. Now if the brew kettle and Boil Coil I have ordered through my LHBS will just show up, I can test all this stuff out.
IMG_4006.JPG
 
I built a my brew table around an 18x18" travertine tile. Now if the brew kettle and Boil Coil I have ordered through my LHBS will just show up, I can test all this stuff out.
IMG_4006.JPG
I actually thought of going this route before I realized the bottoms never get any any hotter than 212 degrees (actually less) since the heat is not concentrated there... (unlike a pot of a conventional bottom element/burner setup. have you ever used a wooden spoon while cooking?? perfectly safe in a boiling liquid...

I even had the tile in my hand at grossmans bargain outlets :)
 
Mine's on wood, scrap plywood sheet. Only discoloration is from my liquid spills ;)
 
I use those round cork things as well, and they hold up great.
What I've really been looking for though is some sort of a shallow pan or tray that they can sit in to contain minor spills/overflows.
Anyone ever find anything like that?
 
I use those round cork things as well, and they hold up great.

What I've really been looking for though is some sort of a shallow pan or tray that they can sit in to contain minor spills/overflows.

Anyone ever find anything like that?


You could take a. Look at drip pans for water heaters. Might be too big diameter wise though. I have seen them in both plastic and metal and a lot of times have knockouts for a drain line.



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I have all my pots on a stainless table. With nothing under them the table does not get warm.
this does however act as a heatsink and you can lose temp easier especially with a stainless MT... probable not enough to matter much but worth mentioning anyway.
 
Thanks Deece! Those drip pans are perfect, that's going to work slick.

I looked at those pans too but they are too big for my application... I use a small brownie pan I move around under any valves to catch liquid I might get but I now can brew without moving or disconnecting any hoses just because of the mess.
 
this does however act as a heatsink and you can lose temp easier especially with a stainless MT... probable not enough to matter much but worth mentioning anyway.

Yes, there does have to be a heat transfer. However, it is much less than I would have guessed. The outside surface of my pots will be almost the same temp as the liquid inside and the table surface right next to the pot is almost room temp. I use a HERMS so no issues with temp drop of mash.
 
this does however act as a heatsink and you can lose temp easier especially with a stainless MT... probable not enough to matter much but worth mentioning anyway.
That's why I chose to use a stone tile. My theory is that it will warm and hold heat, not wick it away. We'll see.:)
 
I started with cork, but finding the right size and thickness for my large kettles was hard. Eventually I did, but I stopped using cork when I realizes it's a PITA to clean if you get any wort spilled on it, and if you don't clean it, the cork sticks to your pot. The cork also transmitted too much heat over a brew. I think it was 1/2" cork?

Now I just use some wood risers that I built out of 1x2s. Two on either side and 4 or 5 perpendicular to those which the pot rests on.
 
I started on polyurethane finished stained 2x4s.

It worked fine for Mash tun and HLT, but the boil kettle started developing blisters in the polyurethane. Then I made a box with the same finish, but no polyurethane.

It works great, and if they ask, "I wanted the BK higher anyway, for the additional line pressure to the chiller".
 
Section of formica countertop that I picked up at ReStore...think that it was $3. Helps keep any drippage from flowing down the back.
 
My kettle sits on a 1/2-inch thick sheet of polyisocyanate foam insulation. The kind with the foil backing. The kettle can't get any hotter than 212F and most foams won't even come close to melting at that temperature. I'm more concerned with insulation...thus the foam. By the way, you can't even tell that a hot kettle was ever on the foam sheet. It just isn't hot enough.

There is no need to worry about scorching or burning the counter or table top since the kettle does not get hot enough to damage those materials.
 
My kettle sits on a 1/2-inch thick sheet of polyisocyanate foam insulation. The kind with the foil backing. The kettle can't get any hotter than 212F and most foams won't even come close to melting at that temperature. I'm more concerned with insulation...thus the foam. By the way, you can't even tell that a hot kettle was ever on the foam sheet. It just isn't hot enough.

There is no need to worry about scorching or burning the counter or table top since the kettle does not get hot enough to damage those materials.
I think its more a psychological thing...people see a pot and think the bottom will be as hot as it would be with a flame or element directly against the metal surface...
Its been mentioned many times that there no need for any additional protection on most countertop or wood surfaces but some either just dont get it, believe it or just do it for looks I guess... I want to paint or tile the ugly underlayment I'm using now and I know the paint will likely stick to the pots so I may pursue some sort of spacer myself to prevent this.
 

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