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Snowkiwi

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After returning to the brewing scene after many years. I decided to start off using "Kit" beers to get my hand in. I have made several batches of various beer types all lower alcohol content and one of cider. All have very little carbonation evident after several days/weeks/months in the bottle. In my previous brews I would prime each bottle with 1 teaspoon of normal household sugar, brewed for many years and always had good carbonation. There are a couple of common denominators re the lower carbonation that I am trying to work out. I have used two different types of drops. One type has a package weight of 200 gms, contains 60 drops giving a weight per drop of 3.33gms. The second type has a package weight of 250gms containing 80 drops, giving a weight per drop of 3.13gms. One teaspoon of sugar weighs 5.69gms. Now, the manufacturers specification is for two carbonation drops in a 750ml bottle. When I bottled previously, I would use one teaspoon of sugar per 50ml bottle and had good carbonation, so there is a difference of only about 1 gm of sugar, yet I am getting much less carbonation from the drops. Any ideas why?
 
clearly its the drops. maybe they arent as fermentable as straight cane sugar. (although that doesnt make much sense the whole point of priming is to add fermentable sugar) i think they may have some binder in them or something.

go back to sugar or increase the number of drops you are using per bottle.
 
clearly its the drops. maybe they arent as fermentable as straight cane sugar. (although that doesnt make much sense the whole point of priming is to add fermentable sugar) i think they may have some binder in them or something.

go back to sugar or increase the number of drops you are using per bottle.
Thanks, I was seriously thinking the same, just didn't want to create "Bombs", I will go back to sugar next brew and see if things are better.
 
i always primed with dextrose because when i first started brewing beer using muntons kits 30 plus years ago i was convinced that the massive amounts of table sugar i used is what caused the cidery off flavors ( which turns out to be completely untrue. - ferm temps is what always messed up my beers because as soon as i started controlling temps my beers got much much better. ) so table sugar terrified me and i was scared to bottle with it. but many threads, videos, and articles show that table sugar is perfectly fine for priming.

also as an aside for fun bottle a few in PET bottles and increase the amount of priming sugar . you can carb to really high volumes in PET without them exploding. the caps usually crack before the bottle bursts. i have made some very fizzy beer and cider with PET bottles and up to 2 whole teaspoons of dextrose in a 20 oz bottle. those bottles really get hard.
 
i always primed with dextrose because when i first started brewing beer using muntons kits 30 plus years ago i was convinced that the massive amounts of table sugar i used is what caused the cidery off flavors ( which turns out to be completely untrue. - ferm temps is what always messed up my beers because as soon as i started controlling temps my beers got much much better. ) so table sugar terrified me and i was scared to bottle with it. but many threads, videos, and articles show that table sugar is perfectly fine for priming.

also as an aside for fun bottle a few in PET bottles and increase the amount of priming sugar . you can carb to really high volumes in PET without them exploding. the caps usually crack before the bottle bursts. i have made some very fizzy beer and cider with PET bottles and up to 2 whole teaspoons of dextrose in a 20 oz bottle. those bottles really get hard.
Thanks for your help. I will try that next brew I make. I was beginning to think that I was doing something wrong when bottling. My Son in law uses pet bottles, two Carbonation drops each and his brews carbonate very well. I usually use Pet bottles for convenience, but my last brew of Cider was bottled in glass and I have the same problem with that. The only other thing that I have changed was that I have used Sodium Percarbonate to sterilise the bottles, where in the past I have used a "No rinse" sterilising solution.
 
several squirts from the starsan spray bottle. shake it up and let the foam do the rest. hang ‘em on the bottle tree or the dishwasher rack and let the foam run out sanitizing as it goes . i never had a bottle infection like that.
 
I switched from carb drops to table sugar several brews back and have had good success. I am currently using 3/4 tsp per 12 oz. Overall level of carbonation seems to suit my taste but nice thing about this system is that I can experiment by bottle rather than a whole batch and make minor adjustments accordingly.
 
i never liked batch priming cause i hated the thought of stirring up beer even a little just to mix the sugar. i never liked the idea of racking on to sugar solution thinking that was enough to mix it up evenly.
 
Thanks for all the great help. I paid a visit to my local Brew Shop in here Whangarei New Zealand, while there, I explained my problem with Carbonation drops to the proprietor. He advised me not to go back to sugar as the Carbonation drops are more readily digested by yeast. We went through a list of things that may have been the cause, and after excluding most of them, he came up with too much variation in the storage temperature immediately after bottling. I keep my newly bottled brews in the same room that they are brewed for at least a month, before moving them to my outside shed for storage. I have noticed that the ambient temperature can swing between 9 Deg c on a cold morning at this time of year to about 19+ during the day. Other than trying to heat my whole basement workshop are there any suggestions on how to keep the storage temperature more constant?
 
He advised me not to go back to sugar as the Carbonation drops are more readily digested by yeast.
I'd be strongly inclined to ignore that advice.
Other than trying to heat my whole basement workshop are there any suggestions on how to keep the storage temperature more constant?
Put the bottles in a cooler (or even a sturdy cardboard box) with something like a heat mat.
 
i never liked batch priming cause i hated the thought of stirring up beer even a little just to mix the sugar. i never liked the idea of racking on to sugar solution thinking that was enough to mix it up evenly.

I also use a small funnel to pour table sugar directly into the bottles, but the best method would be to use a bottling bucket. Dissolve the required amount of sugar in a little boiled water, pour it into the bottling bucket when it cools down and slowly pour the beer from the fermenter using a hose and then bottle it from the bottling bucket. In this case, mixing is not necessary, which introduces air into the beer, and the sugar is properly mixed so that some bottles do not have too much and some too little carbonation.
 
If the harvest yeast is not good pour the sugar water into the fermenter because it will reactivate the yeast from the bottom.
 
After returning to the brewing scene after many years. I decided to start off using "Kit" beers to get my hand in. I have made several batches of various beer types all lower alcohol content and one of cider. All have very little carbonation evident after several days/weeks/months in the bottle. In my previous brews I would prime each bottle with 1 teaspoon of normal household sugar, brewed for many years and always had good carbonation. There are a couple of common denominators re the lower carbonation that I am trying to work out. I have used two different types of drops. One type has a package weight of 200 gms, contains 60 drops giving a weight per drop of 3.33gms. The second type has a package weight of 250gms containing 80 drops, giving a weight per drop of 3.13gms. One teaspoon of sugar weighs 5.69gms. Now, the manufacturers specification is for two carbonation drops in a 750ml bottle. When I bottled previously, I would use one teaspoon of sugar per 50ml bottle and had good carbonation, so there is a difference of only about 1 gm of sugar, yet I am getting much less carbonation from the drops. Any ideas why?

Maybe your carbonation temperature is too low? A week at 25'C is best. My beers are less carbonated in the winter because the temperature in my room is below 22'C, so it takes up to three weeks to properly carbonate. But in the summer, it has the correct foam already after five days.
 

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