Trouble grinding crystal malt

[summersolstice]

I have this malt mill I bought from Northern Brewer and, though it does well with base malts and slightly less well with harder specialty malts, it won't grind crystal malt at all. The handle is attached to the shaft with a set screw that allows the handle to slip on the shaft rather than crush the rock-hard crystal malt. Has anyone had this problem and found a way around it?

I was at a junk store last week and bought two old cast iron mills similar to this one for $1 each. They have a small hopper but they'll process crystal malt like it **** through a goose. It's a little inconvenient but it does a great job.

 

[the_bird]

So, the handle spins when the rollers hit the crystal malt? Sounds like the handle's just not on there tight enough - there's got to be a way to lock it down harder (or take the handle right off and hook it up to a drill).

 

[Funkenjaeger]

If you don't mind a little hacking, you can just pop the handle off and use a metal file/dremel/whatever to make a flat on the shaft for the set screw to snug against, then there's no way it can slip.

 

[summersolstice]

I tried tightening the set screw down but the damn thing almost twisted off. Luckily I stopped in time and bought a new screw but it isn't any stronger than the old one. Do they even make good strong screws? As you can tell, I'm not much of a DIY sort of guy so any detailed advice would be welcome.

 

[the_bird]

Do you have a drill? I'd try using a drill instead of the handle (of course, I would have done that right away ). Otherwise, I like Funken's suggestion of filing a flat spot for the screw to set on.

 

[bradsul]

+1 to making a flat area. If you have that you don't need to try and crank the screw onto the shaft (which is more likely to strip the threads than make it tight).

 

[zoebisch01]

I don't recall if my JSP has a flat on it or not. I've never had trouble. I'd email him and see what's what. The thing has a 100% workmanship guarantee.

 

[Chriso]

My JSP has a flat. I've never had a prob with the handle slipping off.

I have had a problem trying to run it with a drill, though. I think it has to do with roller length? The drills I've tried either spin too fast (and sound like they're dying), or jam up instantly (and start smoking).

And I don't have much trouble with Crystal malt in mine (I usually mix pound-for-pound with 2-row to make it easier to crush though)...... But RYE and WHEAT seriously take muscle to crush. Like, SERIOUS muscle. It sucks. I think I bent my shaft slightly last time I tried to crush Wheat Malt in it.

I'm trying to motorize mine. Just need to find the motor.

 

[T-Hops]

I also have a JSP. Mine has a flat that the screw tightens to. I don't have any problem with it spinning.

If your doesn't have the flat area for the screw to tighten to I would use the grinder or dremel to flatten it.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Add a little flat to the shaft like other replies (stupid on the manufactures part to not of done this already) then use a allen head grub screw with a dab of Loctite, this only after everythings clean with no oil allowing Loctite to contact the correct areas.
The Green Loctite is made to penetrate into assembled assemblies, acts like WD40 but will also lock preventing parts from coming loose.

 

[ThreeDogsNE]

My Monster mill came with three flats ground on the shaft, equally spaced at 120 degrees. This should let a drill chuck engage pretty solidly. I have never had my 1/2 inch drill spin on any drill bit with these flats on them. Stall, maybe, but not spin. It wouldn't take too much work with a file to duplicate that on your shaft, although you would have to be fairly careful about the 120 degrees.

That said, I have never tried the drill on my mill. I have a 12" pulley on it.

 

[Ecnerwal]

I was at a junk store last week and bought two old cast iron mills similar to this one for $1 each. They have a small hopper but they'll process crystal malt like it **** through a goose. It's a little inconvenient but it does a great job.

I have a mill like that (Corona or Corona-style). I also have a can that I cut both ends out of which is stored with it - which serves as a hopper extension. Not a particularly mechanically-inclined modification, - just see if there's a size can that will slip in or over the ridge at the top, and cut the bottom out with a can opener the same as you'd cut the top out. A bigger hopper is certainly possible, but requires more metalwork. Offer a sheet-metal guy a six-pack in trade?

I'd also agree that your other mill should have a flat for the screw - if it does not, the factory had an off day. If you don't take the handle off and look for it, you can also have the thing assembled wrong (from the factory or store), and get the screw not hitting the flat, even if there is a flat.

 

[WBC]

Handle:
A handle should attach to the shaft that has a flat machined on it so the set screw will not slip on the shaft. Any machine shop can do this for a nominal fee and only takes minutes to do.

Drill motor:
It takes a strong 1/2 inch drill motor to easily turn a grain mill at slower speeds. It should chuck on 3 flats to be a good connection. Anything less than this will give you trouble (slippage) which in time will ruin the OD of the shaft and maybe the finish on the jaws of the drill chuck.

 

[Surfman]

I have a mil like this one "two old cast iron mills ", i paid 15 bucks for it, and its great. I unscrewed the handle and jammed a drill bit into it and now i attach my electric drill to it and grind away,

 

[its02003]

[COUGH] +1 Duct Tape [/COUGH]

In all seriousness... if all else fails, duct tape will fix the issue... as I have said before... duct tape makes everything else better...why not beer