Treehouse Brewing Julius Clone

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TheFlyingSparge said:
So I mentioned this to a buddy of mine who frequents Treehouse brewery earlier today actually. He said that can't be true that they only use American hops because he's heard them complaining about having a hard time finding Galaxy.
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Julius is all American I bet. However, Green is not. Nate even said on Twitter, awhile back, that Green is 80% Galaxy. The debate is what other hop they use.

I gave a shot at an 80% Galaxy and 20% Citra hop bill and loooooved it.
 
So... I must say that the BYO recipe is most certainly a delicious knockout brew. I'm super impressed with it and can see myself brewing it up in exactly the same fashion. My one single desire would be to enhance the body ever so slightly as I think it's a SMIDGEN thin but this is only picking hairs. How it compares to Julius as a clone? Very hard to say. I've only had it once and I think side by sides are the only true way to tell.

Changes: gigayeast VT IPA yeast instead of the 1318
I added a 7th oz of dry hops instead of the 6 in the recipe and
instead of adding them all at once, I split them up over the
course of three days
Day 4: 1 ea simcoe mosaic
Day 5: 1 ea mosaic citra
Day 6: 1 simcoe 2 citra
Day 9: kegged
 
TheFlyingSparge said:
So I mentioned this to a buddy of mine who frequents Treehouse brewery earlier today actually. He said that can't be true that they only use American hops because he's heard them complaining about having a hard time finding Galaxy.
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They make a lot of beers you know....

taken directly from their description on their website
JULIUS - Bursting with 1.6 oz per gallon of American hops
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Plenty of their other beers use non-american hops. Just because they were having an issue getting galaxy doesn't mean it's used in julius.
 
specharka said:
Well, for one thing, Julius is not sold in bottles so I'm a little bit skeptical already. :p The BYO recipe uses U.K. pale ale malt (which is basically the equivalent of MO or GP), about 10% oats and a few miscellaneous additions (honey malt, Carapils). I agree, the grainbill is probably fairly simple, and around 4-6 SRM it doesn't leave you much room for specialty malts. But they definitely have something to improve head retention/lacing, as it lasts for ages. And I would venture to guess that the hop bill is at least 50% Citra, and probably a mix of Simcoe/Centennial/CTZ to balance it out. Not sure I agree with the use of Mosaic -- it's got a very noticeable pineberry pop that I don't get from Julius. If I had a guess:

83% Maris Otter
12% Flaked oats
3% Dextrose
2% Carapils
Mash @ 154

CTZ to 60 IBU
4:2.5:1.5 Citra, Simcoe, and CTZ split half at whirlpool and half as a 4 day dry hop
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Does anyone know if Bob's Red Mill Quick Cooking Rolled Oats will work for Flaked oats? I don't want to use the stale flaked oats from the LHBS. Is there even a difference between rolled oats and flaked oats?

Also, can I use corn sugar instead of dextrose?
 
The three American hops I picked are Cascade, Amarillo, and Citra. 1 oz of each hop at 30 min, 15 min, and Whirlpool.
 
I did the BYO magazines version of this and its in the frementor now. Had to change the honey malt to melanoidin as honey was not available and Mosaic to Amarillo 1:1. Hope it turns good. Im gonna bottle it and cant do kegging. Would you people cold crash it?
 
NickLazy said:
I did the BYO magazines version of this and its in the frementor now. Had to change the honey malt to melanoidin as honey was not available and Mosaic to Amarillo 1:1. Hope it turns good. Im gonna bottle it and cant do kegging. Would you people cold crash it?
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Every single time. These beers are heavy in protein and need all the help they can get to drop. Don't forget whirlfloc or irish moss. It makes a drastic improvement. Good luck with bottling. Oxygen is your enemy. Minimal exposure will turn the beer dark brown like mop water and make it taste like cardboard. Use extreme caution and purge everything with CO2.
 
Ruckusz28 said:
Every single time. These beers are heavy in protein and need all the help they can get to drop. Don't forget whirlfloc or irish moss. It makes a drastic improvement. Good luck with bottling. Oxygen is your enemy. Minimal exposure will turn the beer dark brown like mop water and make it taste like cardboard. Use extreme caution and purge everything with CO2.
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I usually have a layer of dry hops on top of my beer that will work to clog my racking cane, so I cold crash until that layer drops to the bottom along with a little of the yeast. Then, I keg into a purged keg. You don't have to worry about losing hop character doing a short cold crash IMHO. It makes racking a lot less of a headache for me.
 
stickyfinger said:
I usually have a layer of dry hops on top of my beer that will work to clog my racking cane, so I cold crash until that layer drops to the bottom along with a little of the yeast. Then, I keg into a purged keg. You don't have to worry about losing hop character doing a short cold crash IMHO. It makes racking a lot less of a headache for me.
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Get a small dry hop bag with a very fine mesh. Boil it to sanitize. Then put it over the tip on the end of your racking can pull the drawstring and tie it tight around the cane. This eliminates any hop debri from clogging the cane. I do a closed transfer under c02 from my carboys to my kegs this way.....then you can the keep c02 on it if you want to cold crash.
 
leesmith said:
Get a small dry hop bag with a very fine mesh. Boil it to sanitize. Then put it over the tip on the end of your racking can pull the drawstring and tie it tight around the cane. This eliminates any hop debri from clogging the cane. I do a closed transfer under c02 from my carboys to my kegs this way.....then you can the keep c02 on it if you want to cold crash.
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I did this a few times. It worked sometimes. Sometimes it would clog. It's easier and trouble-free to just cold-crash. I'll think about doing the CO2 transfers.
 
Brewed my 4th version of the Tree House Clone yesterday, and I’m hoping for some dry-hopping input from the community:

Here are the specs:

Malt:

83% Maris Otter
12% Flaked Oats
2% Carapils
3% Dextrose

Mash pH clocked in at 5.1 at RT (was recommended to me to go a bit lower than the 5.2-5.6 range on these NEIPAs)

FWIW, water specs are sulfate at 140ppm, chloride 170ppm, added 2 grams of NaCl for flavor.

For the boil, used CTZ for approximately 60 IBUs at 60 minutes. No other hops added during the boil.

Whirlpooled for 30 minutes at 175ºF with BK lid off (Citra 2 oz, Mosaic 1 oz, Simcoe 1 oz)

Collected 6 gallons in my 7G conical.

Pitched London III and is now fermenting away at 64ºF.

Let me know how you think I should proceed with dry-hopping! When and what should I add…

I have citra, mosaic, and simcoe at my disposal and can easily go to the LHBS if needed.

Also, I can dry-hop into my conical with minimal O2 exposure and have the ability to directly transfer to my kegs with CO2.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME!
 
Trillium said:
170 chloride is too high for an IPA. Somewhere around 50 would be better. I only add salt to my dark beers.
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I've had excellent results with Chloride at that level. Especially with NE IPAs. As long as the Chloride is coming from CaCl2 and Not Sodium Chloride...
 
Gustatorian said:
Brewed my 4th version of the Tree House Clone yesterday, and I’m hoping for some dry-hopping input from the community:

Here are the specs:

Malt:

83% Maris Otter
12% Flaked Oats
2% Carapils
3% Dextrose

Mash pH clocked in at 5.1 at RT (was recommended to me to go a bit lower than the 5.2-5.6 range on these NEIPAs)

FWIW, water specs are sulfate at 140ppm, chloride 170ppm, added 2 grams of NaCl for flavor.

For the boil, used CTZ for approximately 60 IBUs at 60 minutes. No other hops added during the boil.

Whirlpooled for 30 minutes at 175ºF with BK lid off (Citra 2 oz, Mosaic 1 oz, Simcoe 1 oz)

Collected 6 gallons in my 7G conical.

Pitched London III and is now fermenting away at 64ºF.

Let me know how you think I should proceed with dry-hopping! When and what should I add…

I have citra, mosaic, and simcoe at my disposal and can easily go to the LHBS if needed.

Also, I can dry-hop into my conical with minimal O2 exposure and have the ability to directly transfer to my kegs with CO2.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME!
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What's the theory on the low mash ph?
 
leesmith said:
What's the theory on the low mash ph?
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Heard a panel of brewers talk about keeping pH between 5.0-5.2 to "brighten" the citrus-like character from the hops. One brewer said he's experimented with a mash pH as low as 4.8.
 
For dryhop use equal amounts Centennial/Amarillo/Simcoe for a 1st dryhop at 60-70 hours into the ferment (towards the tail end of primary). Then go 2:1 Amarillo/Simcoe for the 2nd dry hop targeting about .5 oz per gallon. This will be very close if not spot on Julius.
 
JoeMamasIPA said:
For dryhop use equal amounts Centennial/Amarillo/Simcoe for a 1st dryhop at 60-70 hours into the ferment (towards the tail end of primary). Then go 2:1 Amarillo/Simcoe for the 2nd dry hop targeting about .5 oz per gallon. This will be very close if not spot on Julius.
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No citra in the DH? I swear I can taste/smell Citra...
 
JoeMamasIPA said:
For dryhop use equal amounts Centennial/Amarillo/Simcoe for a 1st dryhop at 60-70 hours into the ferment (towards the tail end of primary). Then go 2:1 Amarillo/Simcoe for the 2nd dry hop targeting about .5 oz per gallon. This will be very close if not spot on Julius.
Click to expand...


I find it so interesting that the same hops used in Maine Beer Lunch might also be in Julius. I've heard many others say to give these hops a try with 1318 or Conan. I believe Braufessor has made a few batches using these hops and really liked it.

I'm getting ready to do a Citra, Amarillo and Centennial beer and looking forward to seeing how that turns out.
 
Hi All,
Been lurking in this thread for a while, few things I've picked up following Nate on twitter and having tried numerous treehouse beers. He has said the 1.6 ozs description is very old and has since changed. Newer batches of Julius definitely seem much bigger than earlier batches, so I'm guessing there is a lot of truth to this. He's also alluded to this meaning more hops per gallon in current Julius batches which seems consistent to me. There is no Galaxy in Julius, that's definitely the primary hop in green. A while ago Nate said on twitter there was no flaked anything in their IPA's, however a little while ago there is mention of 3% flaked oats though not directed at any particular beer (perhaps part of the evolution). Take that for what it's worth, but I highly doubt there is much in the way of flaked oats in their beers. As Trillium has stated, Nate has also tweeted before they are higher on sulfates, lower on chloride though who really knows for sure? Lastly, they have made many references to intense kettle hopping of all their beers, which to me means these beers are definitely strongly dry hopped but I think the majority are added prior. Again, take all of this for what it's worth, who knows if Twitter posts are simply made to throw us all off track, after all these guys seem very tight lipped for the most part.
 
JoeMamasIPA said:
For dryhop use equal amounts Centennial/Amarillo/Simcoe for a 1st dryhop at 60-70 hours into the ferment (towards the tail end of primary). Then go 2:1 Amarillo/Simcoe for the 2nd dry hop targeting about .5 oz per gallon. This will be very close if not spot on Julius.
Click to expand...

I'm beginning to think there is merit to this statement. Citra just doesn't give me the Julius taste. I recently did a batch with CTZ at 20min, a vulgar amount of citra amarillo in the WP and dry hop. The resulting flavor is good, but its nowhere near Julius. I wouldn't doubt Citra is in there, but I think its not the primary hop.

Recently a friend sent me a bottle of Alien Church from Tired Hands and it tasted SPOT ON to Alter Ego. Alien Church is Centennial, Columbus, Chinook, Citra, Mosaic.

According to the sales pitch, Alter ego is Julius with the addition of Mosaic and Amarillo in the dry hop. This leads me to believe Julius could be Centennial, Columbus, Chinook, Citra in a varying blend. Heavy whirlpool additions don't lend the tree house flavor to my palate. I'm thinking heavy 10-5-FO additions with a moderate dry hop. At least in my experience, the aroma on Julius and other tree house beers is quite subdued. When I heavily dry hop a beer, I can smell it across the room. Julius doesn't give off a huge aroma until you get your nose into it.

This is going to be my next clone attempt coming soon.

YMMV. - Cheers.
 
Ruckusz28 said:
I'm beginning to think there is merit to this statement. Citra just doesn't give me the Julius taste. I recently did a batch with CTZ at 20min, a vulgar amount of citra amarillo in the WP and dry hop. The resulting flavor is good, but its nowhere near Julius. I wouldn't doubt Citra is in there, but I think its not the primary hop.

Recently a friend sent me a bottle of Alien Church from Tired Hands and it tasted SPOT ON to Alter Ego. Alien Church is Centennial, Columbus, Chinook, Citra, Mosaic.

According to the sales pitch, Alter ego is Julius with the addition of Mosaic and Amarillo in the dry hop. This leads me to believe Julius could be Centennial, Columbus, Chinook, Citra in a varying blend. Heavy whirlpool additions don't lend the tree house flavor to my palate. I'm thinking heavy 10-5-FO additions with a moderate dry hop. At least in my experience, the aroma on Julius and other tree house beers is quite subdued. When I heavily dry hop a beer, I can smell it across the room. Julius doesn't give off a huge aroma until you get your nose into it.

This is going to be my next clone attempt coming soon.

YMMV. - Cheers.
Click to expand...

Alter Ego certainly has a lot of Mosaic in it. I don't think that rules out Julius having mosaic, but it most likely isn't used in large amounts. I swore that Julius didn't have any, but then though that I tasted some in it after drinking an Alter Ego on the same day.

I don't know about the aroma thing, when I pour a can of Treehouse IPA, the whole room smells like hops.
 
fatnhappy said:
10lbs Maris otter
2lb white wheat
2lb carafoam
1lb flaked oats

1oz mosaic at 60. No bag
1oz citra and Amarillo each at 5
2oz each mosaic, citra and Amarillo for 30 minute steep at 180^
2oz each mosaic, citra and Amarillo dry hop on 4th day of fermentation

Yeast bay Vermont ale yeast (Conan)

Fermented 10 days at 66
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Copied this other than the yeast and scaled to 10 gallons, I used 1056 yeast.

I've never had the real thing so I can't compare but I can say this is the best IPA I've ever had.

00326754111233000598.jpeg
 
02RedWS6TA said:
Copied this other than the yeast and scaled to 10 gallons, I used 1056 yeast.

I've never had the real thing so I can't compare but I can say this is the best IPA I've ever had.

00326754111233000598.jpeg
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Nice! Did you cold-crash before you transferred? How did you carb?
 
Can someone explain to me how a spunding valve works to make these New England IPAs better? I would assume you basically transfer the beer from the fermentor to the dry-hopped filled keg after the primary is done. Then attach the spunding valve to vent off excess pressure created during secondary? Wouldn't this vent off hop aroma as well? I apologize if this is elementary – never even seen, much less used, a spunding valve.
 
There are a couple of theories on spunding valves. One being the yeast produces some glycerol under pressure which enhances mouthfeel. The second being that a spunding valve can be used to purge oxygen in the serving keg which is always good for this beer type. I don't have any experience first hand with spunding but I am moving in that direction to help keep my beer tasting the same for a 2 month min.
 
JoeMamasIPA said:
There are a couple of theories on spunding valves. One being the yeast produces some glycerol under pressure which enhances mouthfeel. The second being that a spunding valve can be used to purge oxygen in the serving keg which is always good for this beer type. I don't have any experience first hand with spunding but I am moving in that direction to help keep my beer tasting the same for a 2 month min.
Click to expand...

you can't expect these hop heavy beers to taste the same for 2 months. even after 2 weeks, a can of Tree House really doesn't taste the same and at 1 month, it doesn't taste fresh. granted, reducing oxygen will certainly increase shelf life, but even the pros have trouble after a month
 
TheHairyHop said:
you can't expect these hop heavy beers to taste the same for 2 months. even after 2 weeks, a can of Tree House really doesn't taste the same and at 1 month, it doesn't taste fresh. granted, reducing oxygen will certainly increase shelf life, but even the pros have trouble after a month
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Thats true and besides I can't remember when the keg wasn't kicked after 2 weeks besides beers that started out so-so.
 
Gustatorian said:
Nice! Did you cold-crash before you transferred? How did you carb?
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Shook the crap out of my keg for a few minutes at 30psi. Left it for 12 hours and hooked it up at serving pressure. Not fully carbed but close.

Drank 3 glasses tonight :eek:

No cold crash, my liver has mastered filtering beer.
 
02RedWS6TA said:
Shook the crap out of my keg for a few minutes at 30psi. Left it for 12 hours and hooked it up at serving pressure. Not fully carbed but close.

Drank 3 glasses tonight :eek:

No cold crash, my liver has mastered filtering beer.
Click to expand...


I don't mean to thread-jack here, but this works?
Wife informed me today we're hosting holiday party on Saturday. I have two batches of home brew ready for keg and I've always used slow-and-steady carbonation method.
 
02RedWS6TA said:
Shook the crap out of my keg for a few minutes at 30psi. Left it for 12 hours and hooked it up at serving pressure. Not fully carbed but close.

Drank 3 glasses tonight :eek:

No cold crash, my liver has mastered filtering beer.
Click to expand...


Hey red, where you from? redline is a few miles from my house.
 

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