I came upon this addition based on the tweet that Nate posted about keeping Sulfate High and Chloride "lowish" (which I assume is just lower as compared to Sulfate).
Nice! That was me who tweeted him about that. I'm glad that topic has been helping others. I know he said higher sulfates, but I've had better results with the opposite. 1:0.5 ratio of calcium chloride to gypsum based on my tap profile.
WY1056 works great as well. 1318 is okay, but I've had better luck and closer results with 1056, followed by conan, than 1318.
Columbus, 1 oz, 60 min
Centennial, 0.5 oz, 20 min
Amarillo, 1 oz, 20 min
I think the above will work, but I'd move the centennial and amarillo addition to the 5 minute mark or later.
STEEP/WHIRL POOL: WP will be for 90 minutes (I know this seems overkill, but I have good results with longer steep times), kettle top on, and starting at 140ºF.
Centennial, 1 oz
Amarillo, 1 oz
Simcoe, 1 oz
Citra, 2 oz
I've never steeped that low so make sure you follow up with your results. I have whirlpooled at 150 with a similar amount of hops and the beer came out too bitter to drink. I'm currently using about 1.5-1.8 oz of hops/gallon total per batch and it's acceptable. Too much hops in the whirlpool gives me a lot of vegetal/raw hop flavor that IMO ruins the beer.
After the steep, I'll be pitching into my 7 G conical at 66ºF, pitching 1318, and fermenting at 66ºF until fermentation has slowed immensely. At that point, I'll turn off my temp control, dry-hop with 4 oz Citra, and allow the temp to free rise (likely to around 69-71ºF) until fermentation has stopped.
I find that the haze is achieved without the use of adjuncts by dry hopping at peak fermentation (2-3 days in) and then again in the keg.
Next, I plan on close-circuit transferring the beer into a corny keg via CO2 pressure. Prior to the transfer, I'll place a mesh tube around my liquid out tube, sanitize, and drop 6 oz. Citra into bottom, purge heavily with CO2, and then transfer beer from conical.
I've found that 2-3oz in the keg (2.5 gallon keg) is a powerful nose. Almost stronger than what i've experienced with TH, but good nonetheless.
Once keg is filled, I'll carb for a week at room temp, then remove CO2, invert keg for 24 hours, return keg to it's non-inverted position and cold-crash for 24 hours before pouring.
I recommend fining the keg with gelatin during the cold crash to remove any hop matter/yeast still in suspension. It really cleans up the flavor and makes it more enjoyable. I've only had to do this when using Conan and Yeast Cultured from TH. I'm fairly certain they use something along the lines of a conan strain.
Here's my feedback based on my experiences. To each their own, but this is what works for me.
Here's my feedback based on my experiences. To each their own, but this is what works for me.
Quick question on dry hopping...
I'm planning on splitting up 6 total oz of hops into 2 dry hop additions. The first towards the end of fermentation and the second a few days after that. Since I don't have a means of closed transfer to a secondary, it will all be done in the primary.
I typically wouldn't leave a dry hop in there for more than 6 days (usually 4-6). So, if the first addition goes in on day 3 and the second on day 6... I think I could bottle on day 10 with the first addition having been in there for 7 days and the second for 4.
Does that sound about right? Or would you adjust the timing of the additions in any way? I'm mostly worried about that first 3 oz addition sitting in there for 7 days. Of course, this all assumes fermentation goes as planned.
Primary term may not be done by day 3 it could be day 4 or 5. Check your fg on your second dry hop. If it's at your number and it's been 10 days it's prob done but Conan cleans up more if you let it sit a little longer. If you keg than I'd just dry hop at tail end of primary whenever that is for you then 3 days later then transfer.
Unfortunately, I'm definitely going to have to bottle this one. Given that, I'm thinking I might just check the gravity on day 3 and see how things are progressing. If it is slower than expected, I might consider waiting on the first addition and/or add them all at one time with a goal of ensuring fermentation is complete before the hops have been in there too long.
The big wild card is that I'm not sure what yeast my LHBS will have. Sort of a last min thing and might even be 1056. If so.... I'll just add flour and oats and whatever else I can find to make it cloudy.
The wait and see is the best approach. I used to add all dry hops at once on day 10 but now I'll do one addition at the end of primary ferment that could be day 4-6 depending on yeast and temps. I would not add flour but that's just me I don't see the need but some people use it to effect so to each their own.
This guy? Came out Allright. I ran out of citra and subbed in nelson. It's really floral and white grapey.
This was brewed with conan (omega dipa). It's drinking well at about 2 weeks of age.
No, the "tweet that Nate posted about keeping Sulfate High and Chloride 'lowish'"
This is the recipe I came up with. It's vaguely based off of Hoppy Things, and influenced by some other beers of this style like Heady Topper and HopHands. I'd appreciate any insight or suggestions. The carafoam feels a pretty unnecessary considering the wheat and oats. It's not all that dissimilar to a grain bill that Ruckusz28 posted maybe 20 pages or so ago, and noslenwerd posted recently. I'm looking to brew this in a few weeks perhaps.
Projected for 5.5 gallons at 65% efficiency. I figure I'll lose a lot to trub.
11 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 78.0 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 10.2 %
12.0 oz Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 5.1 %
8.0 oz Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 3.4 %
4.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %
4.0 oz Honey Malt (25.0 SRM) Grain 1.7 %
Bittering: (may use hopshot if I order soon)
0.50 oz Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00%] (60 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 31.3 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [11.10%] (15 min) Hops 12.0 IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (15 min) Hops 9.2 IBU
Flameout:
1.50 oz Citra [11.10%] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (0 min) Hops -
0.75 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (0 min) Hops -
Hopstand @ 170-180 for 30min
1.50 oz Citra [11.10%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.75 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
0.75 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
Dry Hop (will probably split in half. Half as fermentation is subsiding, and half after totally attenuated)
3.00 oz Citra [11.10%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1.50 oz Mosaic [12.50%] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -
1 Pkgs London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318) Yeast-Ale
This is an interesting exBeeriment that is relevant to this thread:
http://brulosophy.com/2016/06/20/th...g-in-a-ne-style-pale-ale-exbeeriment-results/
While NE-style ales are commonly made with water thats very high in chloride, we decided it would be best to go with a balanced water profile in order to reduce the impact it has on haziness. With the treated strike water all warmed up, Ed incorporated the grains and hit his target mash temperature.
When it comes to this newfangled style, it seems to me theres more to it than just grist, chloride levels, and yeast alone, but rather the interplay of various factors that contribute to what has become a hot commodity among the craft beer drinking community.
This isn't entirely new news, but a new brewer in portland seems to be chatty about the NEIPA style
This isn't entirely new news, but a new brewer in portland seems to be chatty about the NEIPA style
http://www.marketwatch.com/story/how-portlands-65th-craft-brewer-has-learned-to-compete-2016-07-08
What I realized is that it was a combination of things to make a New England style of IPA to get that hop flavor. Here in Portland, we saw the IBU wars over the last few years and, fortunately, they have gone away. Nobodys bragging about a 100 IBU beer anymore. What were seeing now, from my perspective, are beers that are more balanced, lighter in color, less crystal and caramel malts, beers that have a higher protein content through wheat and oats. The protein in the style is one of the defining factors theyre hazy, and you cant get through that.
People look at our beers and say: You have too much yeast in suspension. What it comes down to is educating people that there is some yeast in every beer we dont filter, we dont fine, we dont centrifuge but we cold crash all of our beer, drop the yeast out and then do a heavy dry hopping. We dry hop about two and a half to three gallons per barrel. When you dry hop that heavily, you get hop polyphenols that are basically tannins that saturate beer with oils.
Without protein content from wheat or oats, those oils eventually drop out. What were finding to be the defining characteristic of our beers is this marriage of protein and hop oil saturation. Whats happening is that those two are binding. You have this hop oil stuck in suspension and when you pour it into a glass, youre tasting the hop oil.
Were spending a lot of money on hops, and if these hops are going to drop out, it feels like youre wasting money. Thats the beauty of the New England-style IPA, and thats why that style is blowing up across the nation. Im not a hop scientist, but this is just my observation from making it over and over again. Its not something that were keeping a secret: People know youre using flaked wheat or oats and leaving those hop oils in suspension. Its like a hefeweizen: Thats not cloudy because of the yeast; its because of the wheat.
I was lucky enough to get 8 cans of Julius from the brewery. Definitely very citrus in aroma and flavour. The biggest thing I noticed though is that its not that bitter. I don't think the IBU's are any more than maybe 50.
I wonder if all of the bitterness in some of these beers is just coming from the hop stand and the dry hop? I don't think the 60 minute addition is really even needed, unless you like more bitterness in your beer. I'd rather get a dryer finish using gypsum than boost the bitter character.
I did 1oz at 30 minutes in my last NE style for 30 IBU's, it's soon tropical fruit forward it honestly needs just a bit more. I think 45 IBU's would be perfect. I actually blended it 75 mine and 25 local IPA that's mosaic/citra forward and it's perfect.
What's your hopping schedule? I'd like to compare it to mine.
My last batch size was about 3 gallons and I added .2 oz of Columbus at 60 and then 3 oz at 180* WP. Still came out a little too bitter for me. The last one I made I moved the bitter to 30 minutes and bumped down to .1 oz. it's still finishing up in the fermenter right now. I know Columbus can be a little harsh though.
There's a Bissell Brothers SWISH clone on HBT and the clone was based off of a email from one of the Bissell bros. They used .1 oz for bittering and 2 oz at 10 min and then 4 oz in a WP for a 5 gallon batch. I believe SWISH is a DIPA and only comes in around 50-60 IBU (measured) for a DIPA. Which is pretty low.
I believe the super low bitterness/high hop flavor helps provide that mouthfeel, in addition to water and a lower carbonation.
Yeah and I don't miss that bitterness at all. Trying to get away from that standard "1 oz at 60" addition myself and start experimenting with 45-30 min additions around .5-.75 or even FWH additions to cut that bitterness way back.
Enter your email address to join: