Transfering with CO2?

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jacksonbrown

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I've had a lot of oxidized batches recently which I attribute to a bad syphon (you could see all the air getting in during transfer). Is there a way to use CO2 to transfer from carboy to keg?
 
I have never had a discernable oxidized beer due to air getting into the carboy during siphon.

People (myself included) do transfer under pressure to speed things up and reduce chances for oxidation, but I never received one comment or complaint of oxidation in any batch prior to going to these methods.

In other words, if you have oxidation issues, I think you're probably looking in the wrong place at this point.
 
Agree. It's my understanding the oxidation occurs while the wort is still hot. Do you do a ice bath?, Immersion chiller? Stirring your hot wort to vigorously post boil to achieve a whirlpool might be the culprit. My 2cents I could be wrong.


Hot side aeration is bogus.

Oxidation is really only a problem after the beer has begun to ferment. Alcohol + oxygen = nasty.

Most people have no problems siphoning without getting overly oxidized. What do you use to siphon? If you are using a racking cane make sure the tubing is tightly sealed to the cane. Use a band clamp if you need to.

But really your oxidation could come from several other post fermentation sources. How do you bottle? Do you keg? Is there lotsa air space in the bottles? Do you use oxygen absorbing caps?
 
Just a guess but I think JB is getting air sucked into the siphon hose or autosiphon (since he said he could 'see' the air getting in). And getting a bunch of air in your fermented beer = oxidation.

If so, it might depend on how that air is getting in. If it's a bad seal and outside air is getting sucked in then using CO2 to get it started won't help, thje air will still get sucked in (the same 'negative pressure' that allows a siphon to work is what is sucking in the air). And putting positive pressure on a glass carboy is not a good idea. They can take some vacuum but I would not put much positive pressure on one. Fix the seal so air doesn't get sucked in imo.
 
Personally I would not risk this method, but you really only need to exert 2 psi of CO2 pressure to get it to move.

Consider corny keg fermenting so you can do a closed CO2 push to serving keg. Leave the glass behind.
 
Personally I would not risk this method, but you really only need to exert 2 psi of CO2 pressure to get it to move.

Consider corny keg fermenting so you can do a closed CO2 push to serving keg. Leave the glass behind.

Or a Better Bottle....
;)
 
Good to know about glass + pressure.
The original problem was with my old syphon. It had gotten warped from heat and air was getting in around the hose/dip tube connection. I bought a new syphon recently but haven't used it and would have returned it if CO2 was a viable method. But it doesn't sound like it is. Thanks.
 
Meh, I've been CO2 racking for about two years now with no ill consequence. The carboy caps are designed to pop off before the pressure gets great enough to do some damage. I never exceed 2 psi on my regulator and once the siphon is achieved I back it down just to replace the volume that's being removed.

I say this with one caveat, however: If you do this, you do so at your own risk.
 
I also counter pressure CO2 transfer, pressure stays at 2-3 psi with a good regulator. The receiving vessel is always purged and under CO2 pressure before transfer starts.

IMG_2115.jpg


photo-2.jpg
 
I also counter pressure CO2 transfer, pressure stays at 2-3 psi with a good regulator. The receiving vessel is always purged and under CO2 pressure before transfer starts.

IMG_2115.jpg


photo-2.jpg

Holy cow, you're more paranoid than I am! Is that a HEPA filter I see on your co2 line?
 
It just happened to be the right size so I didn't bother getting a barbed fitting.
 
It connects with any appropriate fitting to the small port on the cap, I just happen to use a HEPA filter with barbed ends.
 

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