Sounds perfect, that's how I like to start a fermentation.
Ok great! If I just leave it in that basic temp will it be ok? We're leaving Wed-Sat for the holiday, and my intention was to just leave it in the basement.
Sounds perfect, that's how I like to start a fermentation.
Ok great! If I just leave it in that basic temp will it be ok? We're leaving Wed-Sat for the holiday, and my intention was to just leave it in the basement.
Yep, active fermentation will bring the temp up a bit, but hopefully it won't get too warm. I think that temp is about perfect for this recipe. When you get back you might want to rouse the yeast some (just give the fermenter a bit of a swirl to get the yeast up off the bottom) since 1968 is such a good flocculator. You could also bring it up to your 70f area after the fermentation has slowed down, but I'd definitely suggest keeping it cool for at least the first several days.
Excellent. Thanks so much! Can't wait to have this one right around Christmas!
Now the only question is should I dry hop it next week in the primary, or move it to a secondary.
So this is my first attempt at this recipe (extract), and first attempt in my new home. I was so worried with chilling quickly, I think I over shot, and ended up at about 60* roughly when I pitched. It's sitting in my basement with ambient temps of about 62-63*...and the little Fermtemp strip on the side of the fermenter is showing somewhere around 58-60*
Will this be ok? Or too cold to get going? I could bring upstairs into living area where we are at 70*...but not sure that's a good idea. So far, I'm about 6 hours after pitching, no activity.
My OG came out at just about 1.062, which was right as targeted.
Thanks! Great site and great info!
Safale 05 and 04 fermentation range is (53.6-77°F) so you are well in there for those strains.. May take longer at lower temps but you should be good. I would not go up to 70 as flavor profile may change at upper end.....
Only time i use a secondary is if I need to free up a primary. I say dry hop in primary.
I second this. I never use secondary. Just get a hop sock and throw it in to your primary. I actually use marbles to weigh down the hop sock and then I tie it to the handle of my fermenting bucket with fishing string and it works perfectly...
So, had some friends over on Saturday night, for the official tapping of this. One of them brought a six pack of actual Zombie Dust so we could do a side by side. It's really, really close. color was spot on, hop character and nose was spot on as well. Only thing a little off, was mine was a tad sweeter and not quite as dry on the finish. All my numbers hit pretty good, except my OG was a little higher than the recipe called for and it was still probably a hair undercarbed. I'm wondering if that was the difference.
I second this. I never use secondary. Just get a hop sock and throw it in to your primary. I actually use marbles to weigh down the hop sock and then I tie it to the handle of my fermenting bucket with fishing string and it works perfectly...
Where do you get your hop socks from and how much are they? Also, can they be reused, or are they one and done?
I use 1 gallon paint strainer bags for dry hopping. They're pretty inexpensive and you can buy in packs of two or five from your local home-improvement store. I generally use fishing wire to suspend it in the primary and tape the line to the outside of the bucket so the lid can go back on.
Any reason they are better than muslin bags?
Where do you get your hop socks from and how much are they? Also, can they be reused, or are they one and done?
Originally was going to bottle this, but came across a keg so may put it in there.
Is 7 day primary, then 6 day dry hop in primary adequate? Or will this get better sitting longer?
Which Munich Malt do you guys use? Anyone have experience with Weyermann Munich Malt? Should I use type 1 (light) or type 2 (dark)?
I brewed this 11/29, dry hopped 12/5. I can either bottle this saturday (12/11) or when I get back from vaca 12/18. I'd like to get it done this saturday, but if I can't squeeze it it, will it affect my beer?
I brewed this 11/29, dry hopped 12/5. I can either bottle this saturday (12/11) or when I get back from vaca 12/18. I'd like to get it done this saturday, but if I can't squeeze it it, will it affect my beer?
Do you have a way to cold crash it while you are gone? If so, that's what I would do.
Curious....I only fermented this for 7 days....hit FG #s spot on.....then dry hopped for 6 days....then bottled. It's been one week conditioning....I chilled one bottle and drank it yesterday. Tasted decent, smelled very good. Certainly hope and expect it will get better. Seemed pretty well carbonated, still cloudy and a lot of floating sediment. Only 24 hours in fridge. Not a lot of body to it right now.
How long do you primary ferment? And do you see any great improvement leaving it longer? How about bottle conditioning? I know 2 weeks is min, but does it improve with a few more weeks?
Curious....I only fermented this for 7 days....hit FG #s spot on.....then dry hopped for 6 days....then bottled. It's been one week conditioning....I chilled one bottle and drank it yesterday. Tasted decent, smelled very good. Certainly hope and expect it will get better. Seemed pretty well carbonated, still cloudy and a lot of floating sediment. Only 24 hours in fridge. Not a lot of body to it right now.
How long do you primary ferment? And do you see any great improvement leaving it longer? How about bottle conditioning? I know 2 weeks is min, but does it improve with a few more weeks?
Give the next one three full days in the fridge for the sediment to drop out. Although cloudy seems to be the latest trend in highly dry hopped beers. This beer should hit it's peak 2-4 weeks after bottling. Let us know how it goes, and post a pic of the next one.
It's still green. Give it another week to condition. It's amazing how much improvement there can be over one week.
However, you don't want it to go too long. The thing about IPA's is that they are best fresh.
Not sure why you say this.
I keg my IPAs in around 10 days and they're good. What is green about an IPA? If his bottles are carbed they're done.
We may be nit picking here, but I think there may be conditioning differences between kegged and bottled beers. I too notice that the first beer I open, while it may be fully carbonated, is usually not as good as the next one a few days or a week later. Like ruascott, I too am usually anxious to try one, and usually open the first one after only 6-9 days in the bottle. Since I prime my IPAs to around 2.5 volumes, they're usually carbed after that time, but they do continue to improve in flavor over the next week or two.
Understand that kegged beers are force carbonated, while bottled beers undergo a second "mini" fermentation in the bottle. I'm not surprised that they continue to improve some, even after they are fully carbonated.
Not sure why you say this.
I keg my IPAs in around 10 days and they're good. What is green about an IPA? If his bottles are carbed they're done.
This will be my third brew and I want to make sure I have my steps down correctly - any input or guidance would be much appreciated.
1. Steep Specialty Grains @ 150-155 in 2G for 30 minutes
2. While Steeping, Heat 5G @ 165-170
3. Sparge Grain Bag with 5G to bring Boil Volume to 7G
4. Full Heat
5. Introduce 1.00 oz Citra (FWH)
6. Rolling Boil Reached, Turn Off Heat
7. Stir in 3.00 lbs Extra Light DME
8. Turn On Heat, Return to Rolling Boil
9. Stir in 3.00 lbs Extra Light DME @ 20 minutes
8. 1.00 oz Citra @ 15 minutes
9. 1.00 Whirfloc Tablet @ 15 minutes
10. 1.00 oz Citra @ 10 minutes
11. 1.00 oz Citra @ 5 minutes
12. 1.00 oz Citra @ 1 minutes
13. Cool Rapidly
14. Strain Into Carboy
15. Aerate
16. Introduce Safale-S04
17. 14 Day Fermentation
18. 1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop for 3 days
19. 1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop for 3 days
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