Should I still steep the carafoam, crystal, and melanoidin for 45-60 minutes our go with the standard 30 minutes for steeping?
30 minutes should be plenty! You're not mashing, just steeping.
Should I still steep the carafoam, crystal, and melanoidin for 45-60 minutes our go with the standard 30 minutes for steeping?
AOD said:30 minutes should be plenty! You're not mashing, just steeping.
skeezerpleezer said:Any reason for 140? I usually see 170-180, which is what I use.
fosaisu said:I made this Monday (5.5 gallons, not 20!) as my first PM. PM is really simple, nothing to be intimidated by so if you have an extra hour on brew day I'd say go for it! Everything you need to know is in the first few posts of this excellent thread on PMing.
Since I've got all of one PM under my belt I'm no expert, but using half of your water for the mash sounds like too much. I've read that people generally do the mash with 1-2 quarts of water per pound of grain (I went with 1.25 qts/lb which seems to be a popular and safe ratio to use).
So to do your 20 gallon batch I think you'd want to mash:
4 lb Munich Malt
2 lb Carafoam
2 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt
2 lb Melanoiden Malt
*Consider adding several pounds of 2 Row, which is evidently supposed to help the specialty grains convert properly in the mash (reduce the DME accordingly, subtracting ~ .6lb DME for every pound of 2 Row)
If you used the 10 lbs specialy grains plus 4 lbs 2 Row, and went with 1.25 qts/lb, you'd want to sparge in 17.5 qts (4.375 gallons) of water. This website has a calculator the tells you roughly what to heat the mash water to so that it will drop to your desired mash temp once you add your grains. I mashed at 152 F for 1 hour, and things seem to have worked out fine.
There are various techniques for "sparging" (rinsing to extract residual sugars) the grains once the mash is complete. For simplicity's sake I just heated the remainder of my boil water up to 160 F (some people do 170 F) and tea bagged/steeped the grains in there for 10 more mins, then tossed them out, added the mash water to my boil water, and proceeded as I would with a normal extract brew.
Good luck with your brew however you decide to attack it, and I'm very impressed that you're doing 20 gallons!
What do you think about subbing Munich LME for the Munich grains and Belgium biscuit for the melanoidin? Both the Munich and melanoidin grains are recommended for mashing only.
Supposedly Aromatic is a sub or Melanoiden. I would not sub a crystal for it.
thats not what beersmith says? says crystal 20L.
Aromatic will work too probably
skeezerpleezer said:Also.... why mash Munich extract? The mashing is done already.
I was a little confused reading that too but I'm guessing he meant "mash the Munich grain instead of using Munich extract", not "do a mash using specialty grains and Munich extract".
crusader1612 said:correct, i meant grain not extract. i knew on beersmith the sub showed as a crystal malt, the melanoidin here in nz is darker at 35L, rather than what seems to be available in the US. so im working on what colourings are available here.
Not trying to step on toes, I'm just offering my opinion. so apologies if i did
skeezerpleezer said:No offense here, just sharing my opinion on whether or not to add more crystal. I am not one to mind going over 10% for some beers, but don't think I would add much more to this. This chart says Amber may work well also, but I have never used it http://www.brewstock.com/brewstockbrewing.html
When is the best time to add the dry hops? I think I'm sick of trying to do it in the keg. I was reading that the pros add their dry hops near the end of primary fermentation, when there is still active yeast some fermentables. The reasoning I hear is because whenever you add hops to beer, that some oxygen will be added as well. I have never personally done this, probably because brewing is a hobby, and by the time primary fermentation is complete (3-4 days usually) I've forgotten about the brew I made last weekend, and won't think about doing anything with it until the following weekend. However, in the quest for better beer, I am wondering if there is a recommended time to add the dry hops for this beer. I also understand that the flavor impact can be different depending on what effect the yeast has upon the hop compounds.
By the way, how do I put a list of beers in my sig like Crusader above, and others do?TD
krduckman said:Will be making this Friday evening. Have never used this much hops. Looking forward to the smell and eventually the taste.
When is the best time to add the dry hops? I think I'm sick of trying to do it in the keg. I was reading that the pros add their dry hops near the end of primary fermentation, when there is still active yeast some fermentables. The reasoning I hear is because whenever you add hops to beer, that some oxygen will be added as well. I have never personally done this, probably because brewing is a hobby, and by the time primary fermentation is complete (3-4 days usually) I've forgotten about the brew I made last weekend, and won't think about doing anything with it until the following weekend. However, in the quest for better beer, I am wondering if there is a recommended time to add the dry hops for this beer. I also understand that the flavor impact can be different depending on what effect the yeast has upon the hop compounds.
By the way, how do I put a list of beers in my sig like Crusader above, and others do?
TD
AnchorBock said:I really like how my batch turned out - the aroma is unreal. I did a 30 minute hopstand and I added dry hops to the primary when the fermentation was pretty much done - in this case it was 6 days from pitching (typically it's day 4-5 with WLP002 for me - cold basement) - the gravity was 1.020. I cold crashed after 6 days of dry hopping and kegged 3 days later. Typically with one dose I would only dry hop for about 3 days before cold crashing but it looked like there was a little more fermentation going on so I opted to let this stay warm for the extra couple of days - it ended up at 1.018.
Ever since I tried dry hopping in the primary I have written off ever dry hopping in a keg again. I think using loose pellets is the way to go - sometimes I'll rack to secondary for a multi-stage dry hopping, but almost always start dry hopping in the primary fermenter. A 3 day cold crash has always been sufficient to drop the pellets and transfer clear wort to the keg.
I'm looking to brew the extract version of this. I'm ordering most of the ingredients from MoreBeer. They only have Light DME or I could go with 7lbs of Ultralight LME. Which would yield a better beer? I substituted the 7lbs Extra Light LME in Brewersfriend and got:
OG: 1.064
FG: 1.018
IBU: 69.27
SRM: 9.20
I guess I'm just not too sure what the difference is between Ultralight and Extra light and if it would just be okay to use a Light DME.This is also for a 6 gallon boil.
Thanks!
I would sub in 0.5 to 0.75 lbs of corn sugar in place of some extract. This will help dry the beer out some.
If you're doing extract only, no grains, use the Light DME, not ultralight.
~Adam
the-crowing said:So if I PM, should I still just use Light DME with some corn sugar?
Fordzilla said:This is going to be my first kegged beer. Normally I dry hop in secondary, but I am not sure how I should dry hop this one.
Should I dry hop it in secondary, in the keg, or split the 3 oz amomg both?
Enter your email address to join: