Threaded Fittings

[kzimmer0817]

Sorry for this possibly stupid question - and double apology if it's been answered. This question regards getting threaded fittings to end up being properly oriented after having been tightened.

I purchased weldless fittings for my keggle and am about to purchase some more as I convert my original kettle. I wrap the threads with the white tape and start tightening.

I had the devil of a time getting both my threaded elbow/dip-tube assembly on the inside of my kettle and the ball valve on the outside properly oriented after getting them tight. At one point, I thought the entire washer was going to squeeze out from under the fitting.

At another point, I ended up with the ball valve exactly 90* off. That didn't look too bad with the lever going up and down, but having fittings just a few degrees off does to my eyes what scraping fingernails on a chalkboard does to some folks' ears.

Is it possible that I'm not using enough turns of tape and trying to compensate by tightening the fitting too much?

I may be purchasing a kettle that comes with a 1" threaded female fitting welded on for attachment of the ball valve. At least, if I purchase the 3-piece valve, I simply need to get it to the nearest 90* point. If I purchase the less expensive ball valve, I may have difficulty.

Please explain how you folks are able to screw in your fittings and have them oriented exactly right.

Thank you very much,
Keith

 

[boat_eggs]

If you screw it in tight enough that it is no longer smooth with a kinda grinding feel, then you are getting galling which tears up the threads. I read somewhere that stainless needs a minimum of 7 turns of tape. I usually use 10 turns of tape and screw stuff in until it feels tight and is oriented correctly, leak testing after. Hope this helps

 

[Bensiff]

I can see where that would be annoying. My first suggestion is that if you make an investment towards purpose built kettles spend a little extra coin and go with a manufacturer that offers triclover fittings instead of threaded. If you are serious about the hobby for the long run you will be pleased with the investment.

Anyway you can use more or less Teflon tape to impact where the threads lock. You can use a longer nipple and a lock nut to firmly fasten the ball valve and get a good seal. Then thread the pickup tube into the extended threads of the nipple. Since the ball valve is square and tightened into place you aren't fighting it so dealing with getting the taping correct for the pickup tube is much easier. Or again, triclover will fix all those issues. I believe bobby m of brewhardware is playing with soldered triclover kits if you are willing to try your hand at soldering stainless.