Thoughts on persistent boil over

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bullywee

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Location
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Last 2 brew days I've had persistent boil overs.
Equipment is -
Auber Instruments PID
1/2 barrel keggle
5500 W ULD element. I was boiling 12-13 gal in either manual (@50%) or auto (212) both resulted in repeat boil overs. in manual I had it set @ (50 with no decimal is that right?) is 5500w too much? My vent isn't exactly right over the BK doubt that's it but I wonder if its a contributing factor? I haven't troubleshot this just looking for ideas or similar experiences. I've never had issues like this before
 
I use a PWM controller for my brew pot. I also use a 5500 watt element and when I reach boil I set my element to less than 50%. Also, it gets set a little different each time I guess because as my basement temperature changes it takes a little more or less heat to keep the boil right. I don't understand why some people use PID controllers for boil. Several times over the past two years if I had not been able to turn down my boil fast I would have had a boil over and I don't believe I would have been able to program a PID controller fast enough.

If your system is anything like mine then 50% is too high. I use a converted beer keg for my strike & sparge water tank, then I mash in a large round cooler. I maintain my mash temperature with a RIMS tube, then I batch sparge into my boil pot. I boil in another converted beer keg.

The only things I don't like about my system is I have to rinse my brew equipment into a sump pump that's in the corner of the basement and carrying spent grain up the stairs kind of sucks. I made the mistake of not carrying the spent grain out one time and two days later the whole house stunk - Wife was pissed!
 
One thing you might consider doing is set an alarm to go off 2 degrees or so before boil. That way you can do other things until just before the boil over then switch over to manual mode. I use 4500w elements and I set the PID manual mode to 65% to get a pretty decent boil.
 
You could also install a float that shuts off the heater or the SSR when the boil gets within XX of the top... It would keep from boiling over and if you wire it after the SSR, it would just start the heater back on after the boil has subsided.
 
One thing you might consider doing is set an alarm to go off 2 degrees or so before boil. That way you can do other things until just before the boil over then switch over to manual mode. I use 4500w elements and I set the PID manual mode to 65% to get a pretty decent boil.

This. When the alarm sounds, watch it come to a boil and then dial the manual mode down to as low as you can go while maintaining a good boil. If you are boiling over at 50%, you still have quite a lot of room to go lower.

Out of curiosity, what is the volume of wort in the keggle at the beginning of the boil?
 
jeffmeh said:
This. When the alarm sounds, watch it come to a boil and then dial the manual mode down to as low as you can go while maintaining a good boil. If you are boiling over at 50%, you still have quite a lot of room to go lower. Out of curiosity, what is the volume of wort in the keggle at the beginning of the boil?


12-13g of wort
 
Besides using less heat, since you have such a large volume in your keggle it might be time for a bigger pot.
 
Boiling 12-13 gallons in a 15.5 gallon kettle is the biggest problem. I start with about the same amount of pre-boil wort but use a 20 gallon kettles and still have to stir and watch.

There's only so much you can do when there's little room.

Kal
 
Boiling 12-13 gallons in a 15.5 gallon kettle is the biggest problem. I start with about the same amount of pre-boil wort but use a 20 gallon kettles and still have to stir and watch.

There's only so much you can do when there's little room.

Kal

I did 12g on propane for years with hardly any issues and my previous electric system was 30gal pots (boiling 26 gal sometimes) I may be getting greedy on this one! :D Ill see how low I can go in manual but 9 gal migh be in my future.
 
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