This $%%ing kettle valve

[fearwig]

I bought a used 30qt kettle with a no-weld valve for $25, and it's done me just fine--love it (especially for the dough). BUT--the valve is a freaking mystery to me. My kitchen floor is sticky for a week after every brew, and my wife is not impressed. I have tried to get "handy" with it, but let's say that hasn't been an unqualified success.

It's got a male attachment inside and a female on the outside, like most ball valves. It says "1/2" on it--no " to indicate it means that's even inches or diameter or whatever. When I take a tape measurer to the female outer spigot, it seems like 7/8" ID and maybe about 1" OD, so I don't see how any 1/2" male could fit in that, even accounting for threading. The inside male piece seems way smaller than the outside female, more like 1/2".

As I said, this was used--and for less than the price of the no-weld alone, really--so I'm happy, but lost. My attempts to make weird drilled bungs out of old rubber wine corks have been, well uhh. Let's not talk about that. I know this is more of a plumbing question than a homebrew question, but you guys are the experts--does the outer, female fitting always look so big? Should I order one of the big, expensive 1" or even 7/8" custom NPT to barb adapters so I can use normal 3/8" tubing? Or is this thing really 1/2" because that's what it seems to say on it and I'm just nuts?

Anyway, TIA and thanks for reading three paragraphs about a dumb ball valve. My floor will thank you.

 

[fearwig]

Also--since I've never assembled a no-weld valve--can I just unscrew this thing and put it back together when I'm done? Because then I could just cut the crap and see if the inside male fits inside the outside female (which sounds hot, I'll put it on the internet and make a fortune).

 

[jakenbacon]

Hey bro, sorry I can't help more, but just save yourself the hassle and buy this:
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/1-2-weldless-bulkhead.html
Then screw your valve onto it and be done. No more sticky floor!
Good luck

 

[IslandLizard]

I take it there's a leak somewhere.

These weldless assemblies rely on a good working silicone gasket. Yes you can take them apart. When reassembling, use several turns of teflon tape on all threads.

Maybe the hole in the kettle is too large.

1/2" NPT refers to the ID.

 

[fearwig]

No, no, the weld is great! The spills are from bad hack jobs to make it fit my tubes. I just can't figure out the size of the valve without buying a bunch of things and finding out they're wrong. It does say 1/2 on the side (no ", again) but the female spigot looks huuuge for half an inch, like very nearly an inch if I measure it. 1/2" adapters are cheap, I guess--I should probably just buy one just to satisfy myself it's not 1/2". I was just wondering, if you all took measuring tape to the female (outside) part of your spigot, does it look like 7/8", or is that just crazy talk?

I'll take your advice though, IslandLizard and disassemble--if the outside female really is 1/2" it should fit with the male inside piece.

 

[Ravenshead]

I can't quite tell from your post where you are leaking from. Is it leaking around the fitting or through the valve. Installed correctly, a weldless fitting should not leak at all. It would help if you can past a picture of your installation.

Also, 1/2 in refers to the inside diameter of the pipe the fittings are designed to be used with. Your measurement of the female threads sounds about right for a 1/2 in fitting.

Yes, you can just unscrew it and put it back together again.

 

[Ravenshead]

I gotcha now, A 1/2 in NPT to 3/8 barb is all you need, you can get them at any hardware store. I have to wonder, what were you using before?

 

[fearwig]

OK, I took it apart and I am now 99% sure it is 1/2" inside (male) which increases to 3/4" outside (female). The inside male opening steps up to an inside washer that is the diameter of the outer female hole. This seems like an insane design and in terms of flow rate 110% pointless but is at least pretty easy to find compared to 1" or 7/8". I think that's even Home Depot-level common.

Ravenshead: Well, "before" is pretty relative because I just finished batch #2 (as in I'm a noob--I won't count extract) but for #1 I actually screwed a rubber cork into my kettle valve and drilled a 1/4" hole, which totally worked. Except it meant I had to do everything through a 1/4" tube, which is insane--and the wall of wine cork rubber between 3/8 and 3/4 does not leave enough structure for the cork, so... ahh yeah, messy.

Thanks all!

 

[Ravenshead]

I have two of the exact same valves. That's a 1/2 Female NPT fitting on the outside so you just need a 1/2 barb to hook up a hose and yes it's Home Depot common.

Remember, the 1/2 in moniker refers to the inside diameter (ID) of the pipe the fitting is made to connect to. The threads are significantly larger than the ID.

 

[IslandLizard]

I have two of the exact same valves. That's a 1/2 Female NPT fitting on the outside so you just need a 1/2 barb to hook up a hose and yes it's Home Depot common.

Remember, the 1/2 in moniker refers to the inside diameter (ID) of the pipe the fitting is made to connect to. The threads are significantly larger than the ID.

Exactly, well said!

I have the same valve on my 15 gallon kettle.
If you have a weldless assembly, there should be an o-ring on the threaded back of the valve, that stays on the outside of the kettle. Then a large 1/2" retaining nut or 1/2" coupler on the inside of the kettle.

You said "the weld is great."
Are you referring to a threaded coupler that's welded on your kettle, into which the bulkhead end of the ball valve screws? Obviously, that would be a welded bulkhead, not weldless.

The thinner tail piece coming out the back of your valve is a 3/8" "close" nipple. It is screwed inside the valve's bulkhead threads. If you ever want to remove it, you must be careful not to deform it or damage the threads when you grab it with pliers. Use a thick rag in between, and use the hollow area of the (slip joint) pliers. And don't squeeze too hard.

Always use teflon tape on threaded fittings, except compression fittings. They seal on the flare or ferule.

Here's a good reference to all those nipples and bulkheads Bargain Fittings

 

[jhoyda]

I have two of those as well and love them.

The person before you screwed a 3/8" nipple into the valve from the inside ( thus the step shown in the pictures. It is indeed 1/2" female pipe on the outside of the kettle.

 

[fearwig]

I have two of the exact same valves. That's a 1/2 Female NPT fitting on the outside so you just need a 1/2 barb to hook up a hose and yes it's Home Depot common.

Remember, the 1/2 in moniker refers to the inside diameter (ID) of the pipe the fitting is made to connect to. The threads are significantly larger than the ID.

That's awesome! I should know better than to second-guess a big stamp on the side of the valve. Err, triple-guess. Or whatever it is I did up there.

I have two of those as well and love them.

The person before you screwed a 3/8" nipple into the valve from the inside ( thus the step shown in the pictures. It is indeed 1/2" female pipe on the outside of the kettle.

And that... explains the mystery.

 

[fearwig]

Exactly, well said!

I have the same valve on my 15 gallon kettle.
If you have a weldless assembly, there should be an o-ring on the threaded back of the valve, that stays on the outside of the kettle. Then a large 1/2" retaining nut or 1/2" coupler on the inside of the kettle.

You said "the weld is great."
Are you referring to a threaded coupler that's welded on your kettle, into which the bulkhead end of the ball valve screws? Obviously, that would be a welded bulkhead, not weldless.

Neither, I'm a dolt, I meant the seal. There's an O ring, it just stayed on the kettle (not pictured).