The more I read the more confused I get

[JollyMon]

I am in the pre-pre planning stages of my electric brewery build. I only brew 5 gallon batches, and have no plans to ever go up from there. That being said I plan on sticking with 120v service that I have readily available (multiple 20a circuits available). I understand that should be able to make that work well for 5 gallon AG batches. I have two sanke's I plan on setting up as bottom drains for my HLT & BK using tri clovers on the existing sanke necks. I will use an igloo cooler for my MLT. I would like to use my IC to do double duty as a HERMS coil. I am pretty handy, but also have access to a willing-able-helpful-brilliant electrical engineer for wiring everything up. And of course money is somewhat of a factor but I know this will cost a few shekels.

I think that is sufficient backstory. I would like to have a single PID controlling 2 elements (1 in the HLT & 1 in the BK). The one in the BK doesn't necessarily need a temp probe because manual control via the PID should be better for boil control anyways. So the temp probe only needs to be in the HLT. So here's my problem..the more I search this forum, the more confused I get. I said I have access to an electric guru to help me hook everything up, but first I have to start acquiring parts. Without really UNDERSTANDING what everything is I am a little at a loss when it comes to creating my shopping list.

PJ, your diagrams are awesome. They make me feel like I could figure this out. But since we are talking about electricity here I'm not going to screw around. I'll bring in my guy. I just want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row when he gets here.

I guess I'm asking for help with my shopping list. If you are still reading, I appreciate the assistance.

 

[Dgonza9]

Well, your shopping list depends on your setup. If you are just looking to mash in the cooler, heat strike water in the hlt and boil in the BK, then no PID is necessary. 2000 watts is about right for boiling a 6-7 gallons in a keg. So you wouldn't need a PID to dial down the element. I'm also not sure why you would need a PID to control the element in the HLT.

So the simplest way to go is to mount one 2000W 120V element in each keggle. Plug each element into a switched GFCI receptacle on it's own 20 amp breaker. Use the switch to turn the elements on and off as needed.

A PID would come into play if you are building a RIMS or HERMS system, where you would like the PID to maintain mash temperatures. Or it would be necessary if you are installing a large element in the keggle that you would then later need to dial back so as not to have too vigorous a boil. But in your case, it's not needed, unless you are building a RIMS or HERMS.

 

[JollyMon]

I did mention in my original post, I am thinking about a HERMS setup. Is 2000W really enough for 5G batches? I have considered a Heatstick as well just to speed things up.

 

[Ajgeo]

A single PID for two elements is a good start. You can use the hlt to dial in your strike and sparge temps within one degree. You can always upgrade to a HERMS later. Here is a thread where bigljd did just that. The diagram that P-J made could be adapted to 120v. 2000 watts will work for five gallons, but make sure the wires and circuits you use can handle the amps. I have a friend who uses 1800 watts and that works too, it just takes a while to get to boil sometimes. You will also have to stir or recirculate the hlt to avoid stratification.

 

[Dgonza9]

I did mention in my original post, I am thinking about a HERMS setup. Is 2000W really enough for 5G batches? I have considered a Heatstick as well just to speed things up.

Sorry, I must have missed that. So you'll need a PID, Heat sink, SSR, some control wire that, and some 12/3 wire. You'll also need to make a cord for the element. You can buy rubber 12/3 cord at Home Depot and then add a 20 amp plug. Or you can buy a 20 amp extension cord and cannibalize it.

You'll need a box to mount the pid and some kind of switch. A lot of folks like to have a switch between the ssr and the element as well, just in case it fails closed. Auber instruments has most of what you need.

You'll also need elements, preferable LWD or ULWD. Have you punched the holes in your keggle? If not, you'll need a step bit or hole saw, or a greenlee punch. You'll also need a way to "pot" the elements. There are different approaches to this. You'll need a locknut for your element. bargainfittings.com has them, as well as a weldless kit, unless you are going to solder the locknut to the keggle.

Sorry, this is an "off the top of my head' list. The best thing to do is to consult Kal's site, "Theelectricbrewery.com."

It's darn thorough.

Cheers.

 

[sonex]

ajgeo is correct you will have to stir the water in the hlt. I built a similar system except mine is 240v with 4500w elements. If you want to keep your system cheap and simple you can design it so you just unplug one element and plug into the other element this will save you from adding switching and save ya some money. You could use 2 2000w elements plugged into to different independent circuits to bring the water up to temp fast. Then just use one element to maintain the boil.